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It's Wednesday evening and I've just returned from a three hour hike around town. The days here are hot and it typically doesn't cool down until about an hour or so before sunset--which is generally between 9 and 9:30 p.m. I won't head out until later this evening for a drink (or two) and a tapa (or two) although Ill head out in a few to buy a loaf of bread to eat with my pimientos asados en almibar (roasted red peppers in syrup) and setas fritas (marinated mushrooms in olive oil & garlic). The Argentinean shop owner down the road is quickly becoming my new best friend.
Last night I walked in the door at around 11:50 pm after stumbling upon the Sacramonte, a neighborhood famous for its cave dwellings and flamenco shows. In fact, I just purchased a ticket to check out one of these shows at Casa de Rocio Monday night. The audience sits along a bench that lines both sides of the tight interior of the cave and the entire show happens directly in front of you as the performers sing and dance down the narrow aisle. I can't wait! Anyways, like clockwork, shortly after midnight I heard Pablo at my window shouting "Courney! Guapa!" I answered the door and he explained that he had just gotten off work & was headed to Pibes for the best "sang-whees" in town. After giving him a puzzled look, I quickly realized that he meant sandwiches. Now by no means am I making fun of his pronunciation. Menus here list "sandwich" as an option but everyone refers to them as "sang-whees." Anyways...I couldn't pass up the best sang-whees in town so I opted to go with him.
Pibes Hamburgueseria is a tiny hole in the wall serving sandwiches, bocadillos, choirripan, soft drinks, beer, and gum. I learned that the difference between a sandwich and a bocadillos is simply the type of bread they use. Sandwiches are served on squared slices of bread whereas bocadillos are prepared on a roll. Pibes is a local spot that's opened late and usually has a line out the door. It reminded me a lot of Ike's in San Francisco but with less of a hipster vibe. Anyways, I ordered the bocadillo with the works--cheese, mayo, chicken, tomato, and a fried egg. It was delicious! We also shared a bag of Cheetos Pandas--has anyone ever seen these? They taste different from our Cheetos at home and each individual Cheeto is in the shape of a puffed up panda. I think he said there are tigers too--which makes a little more sense.
After Pibes, Pablo asked me if I'd like to join he and his cousins swimming at his house. I found this curious because the last invite I received to go swimming he said was at his family's house. In any case, I said sure! 1 am swimming with some of the other neighborhood kids seemed like fun. When we finally arrived, people were hanging out but no one was swimming...but I'll return to this in a moment. Let's talk about this house which he confirmed was in fact his! It was like MTV Cribs, Granada! Set up in the hills in a residential neighborhood with huge columns in front, crazy lion statues, and a terrace with a view of the entire city! And here I thought Spain was in a recession. Young Pablo's done pretty well for himself! We ended up playing video games until 2:30 in the morning with his cousins and nephew in what appeared to be his home theater and then i decided to head out. Not quite the Spanish experience I had hoped for--but fun nonetheless. On my way home, Pablo revealed that it is fate that brought the two of us together. He explained that he had always wanted to go to the states and that perhaps meeting me is his big opportunity. I'm not going to knock fate but I'm also not trying to be his golden ticket to America.
Anyways...I'm really settling into being here and feel so fortunate to be staying in such a beautiful place with so much rich history. I'm trying to do a little each day and have decided that I'd like to check out the Sierra Nevadas (although wishing I would have brought my hiking shoes) and will try making it to the beach perhaps this weekend. I'm a bit nervous when it comes to trusting my internal navigation system and using the inter-city bus lines but the people are kind & I take refuge in the language. Also on my to-do is a visit to the Alhambra & Generalife although I'm pretty sure my tour group will visit both when I'm back in Granada for a few days in August. Something I suppose I should look into.
I'll end this entry by mentioning the one thing I miss the most: two-ply toilet paper. It really makes a difference!
P.S. Mom, I'm wearing my palazzo pants and I'm really glad they're back in style!
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Mom
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How fun! Glad the palazzo pants worked out! And for goodness sake , buy a pair of sneakers! I bet young Pablo is the talk of the town with his new American friend. We are so anxious to see a picture! Miss you!