D5: Angry weather gods at John O'Groats


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Published: June 23rd 2014
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I angered the Scottish weather gods when I mocked their misty rain yesterday. I angered them big time lol.

I headed up to John O'Groats today - the most north-eastern tip of the UK mainland. It's common to do the trek from here to Land's End in the south-west, crossing the full length of the UK. I figured I was up here, so it's def worth the journey.

The bus ride was rather lovely - as you could guess, I saw mainly sheep mixed in with the occasional lone house. I debated going to Dunnet Head which is the most northern part of the mainland but it was a 2.5 hike and busses come only every 2 hours... so... I didn't fancy waiting almost 2 hours in the middle of a field when it's raining.

Ok back to the bus - it was spitting rain, normal enough. The clouds were quite low which is another reason I skipped out on Dunnet... you could barely see off the coast.

Arriving in John O'Groats I had a false sense of security. The sun was trying to poke through the clouds and the mist was even lighter. Brilliant! I started the hike along the coast up to Duncansby.

Now, even without rain this was fun because there was a sign: "due to high tides parts of the path have been washed out". That's always fun. It wasn't bad though, basically just a bunch of rocks were washed up onto the trail so you had to make sure you were stepping on solid stones and just keep going along the coast. Easy enough, I managed to only do the slip dance twice 😉

Once the trail reappeared it was quite nice - the mist was a little heavier but it was sunny off the coast. As I got about 35min into the hike I thought 'ah, now is the time for my sandwhich!' I pulled it out and literally two bites in the sky opened up and it started to pour. And I don't mean no sissy hard rain. I mean full out pouring rain - and sideways. I didn't know it could pour sideways but it sure does in Scotland.

I have never felt so uncomfortable in my life haha - even with my raincoat and umbrella I was half soaked. And by half I mean my left half. My right side was completely dry. Not a good feeling.

(Also, sandwhich? Soaked. Idk if you've ever tried to eat wet bread but it is unpleasant lol.)

My trek back to John O'Groats was more of a land-based swim lol. Thankfully (???) my right side now matched the left and I was fully drenched now. Raincoats are good and all but perhaps I should invest in rainpants haha.

I have never been happier to have a cup of tea in my life. I held on to that cup for a good 5 minutes just to get the chill out of my bones. Damn good tea.

I then had to chuckle when I local came in and was like "It's a bit damp, eh?" You don't say? 😉

Also, to further prove my weather god story... once I was inside enjoying my cuppa it stopped raining and it is now brilliant sunshine without even a cloud in the sky.

Dear weather gods, I apologize for mocking your mist. I meant it in the sweetest way possible - we cool?

After my cuppa I debated bussing over somewhere else or not but the sunshine was brilliant now so I figured let's try this again! Back out to Duncansby I go.

Man was it worth it.

The trail is kind of... walk where you please and try not to step in sheep poop or fall off the cliff. Very UK indeed.

For about half thw hike I stayed down on the beach/rocks/shells. I wish I could describe the smell and do it justice - fish, seaweed, salt... but fresh? Like it hit you, but in a nice outdoorsy way. I found it interesting that the beaches seemed to be half sand, half shells. Tiny tiny tiny shells.

Once I was back up on the cliffs I was surrounded by... you guessed it! Sheep. All the sheep. And all the lambs. Those poor sheep - I kept scaring them and they'd stand still as a board so I'd stop and hope they don't charge me off the cliff haha. Thankfully they'd all run away or just stare as I walked by.

Honestly I find it hilarious how many photos I have of sheep staring at me. Creepers.

I also got this brilliant shot of one coming around the side of the cliff, water behind it, lighthouse in the background. Welcome to Scotland indeed. Beautiful.

Other than the sheep, it was nice to see the coastline and just listen to the birds and the water. At the end near the lighthouse the water was crystal blue and the rocks were covered in almost lime green moss and algae - talk about a colour scheme. It looked like I was in the Bahamas or something like that... just stunning.

I saw a few whales (or dolphins?) further out but wasn't quick enough with my camera. Same could be said for the wild bunnies - every time I'd see one it would be gone in a blink.

Back at John O'Groats I managed to miss a bus by 15min... oh well. I sat and read my book in the shade and got to say hello to a lot of doggies as they walked by 😊

Oh. And after all that beautiful sun... I got a sunburn on my face. I have been marked by Scotland, let me tell you.


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23rd June 2014

Here another sheep
Is this Shaun the Sheep?

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