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Published: April 19th 2014
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We have a long weekend, because our main organizer has been sick in the hospital and is still not returned. The family that takes care of us is going away for the weekend, so although we can stay here if we want, there is a fairly strong sense of appreciation for us to go away. Four of us, Abbie, Carl, Inge and I have decided to go to Ollyantaytambo. This is a smaller village (larger than Huyro by far) with a well known ruin. It is an older town with a foundation of rocks from the Incan times. We arrived in the afternoon and found a small hostel where we could get a shared room for 7 dollars a night. It's courtyard was a beautiful tiny garden with many flowering trees. One tree has huge lilies growing everywhere scenting the air hanging over the shared toilet. We walked down the cobble stone street to the main square and found a place for lunch. Many restaurants have a tiny main entrance and then stairs up to a large room with shared tables, and lots of large windows. Out the windows we can see the mountains that surround us everywhere. There is another
square that is over by the main entrance to the ruins, where there is an artisan market, which had me itching to buy beautiful things. There is water running down channels everywhere, along tiny streets lined with rock. It is beautiful. We decided to investigate the ruins that were on the hill behind our hostel. Jhon, our archaeologist, had suggested we look at them, the less visited and free site. This meant a steep climb up the slopes, winding back and forth up a dirt path broken with rock steps made by the Inca's. We reached one set of buildings and turned to look out over the valley. Here the sacred valley meets with another valley, at the intersection is an abundance of ruins. We looked down from our height to see the main ruins laid out below us across the valley. We looked up to see the ranges of mountains dappled with light and cloud. A river snakes down the long valley. My breath catches again and again, the beauty is overwhelming. We climb some more, reaching new buildings open to the sky, then we reach a cave, or perhaps more a large out cropping of stone. It's like
a little home on the side of the mountain. The trail climbs and when you look up, you can see another rock building on the top of the nearest peak. The trail climbs past it to higher and higher peaks. It's calling us to climb higher. Carl does, I stop when I fear that I won't get down before dark. Inge and Abbie have been more sensible and returned before the path got crazy steep. We do all safely return to the village and find a restaurant for supper. After supper, we consult the guide book and go to a little bar that is very interesting. On the upper floor there are swing benches and hammock seats and a fireman's pole for quick exits to the main floor. We find that the bar runs tours on horse back, rents bicycles, and sets up mystic cleanses and sweat lodges. We hope that we can stay long enough Sunday that we can take advantage of their offers, but now it was time for bed.
We decided that we wanted to wake early and catch the sun rise on the ruins, so we woke at 5:30. We went to the market for
breakfast. Here, the markets are large buildings on two to three levels. On floor level, they sell food stuffs. On the second level they sell clothes and implements and breakfast. On the third, the have a cooking hall for lunch, the main meal of the day. We had cafe con leche and chocolate with corn bread, all for a dollar. We took our breakfast to the hills and made our way up to the cave. Unfortunately, the sun would not give us our due, it was cloudy and mist raining. We still loved sitting under the rock looking out over the valley. Next, we made our way back to town to get a combi (shared van) to Urubamba, the next town over. From there, our combi driver offered to drive us on a private tour to two major ruins, we had thought we would be in a taxi.
First, we went to Moray. This is a restored Inca agricultural research site. The Inca were trying to develop cold and high altitude resistant crops. So the built/dug terraced circles fanning up from the valley floor. As plants survived, they were moved up the rings, away from the protected, warm base
at the bottom of the the valley. It is hard to believe they immense work that went into building the terraces with their perfect geometry. We walked the rings, passing down to the centre on the stepping platforms of rock set into walls. At the bottom looking up, and at the top looking down, one could not fail but be awe struck. From here, our driver took us to Salinas, where there are natural salt springs. The Incas developed a vast layering of salt pans to catch the spring water. From there, they harvested cooking and health salts. The Peruvian people are still using the same structures. Then we returned to Urubamba, where we went to their market for lunch. We had a huge meal of soup and fried rice and salad, all for $3.50. Then we caught another combi back to Ollyantetambo. We were still early enough in the day, that we decided that we would try another walk There is a trail that loops along the river and back around to the far side of town with an ancient quarry site. We did not get very far before we decided to sit and watch the sun setting in
the mountains topped with snow, and to drink the beer we had brought with us. We had arranged to be picked up by staff on the way back home on Sunday, and when we talked with them, we found we had to leave by mid day. So we were unable to arrange a horse or cycle ride. Maybe next time.
The next morning, we did have enough time to go back to the market for our simple breakfast. Then I wandered through the artisan market, replacing my tattered wallet and buying new jewels. I will be tempted by the textiles here. They are vibrant, exuberant detailed weavings that want to come home with me as pillow cases and sweaters, blankets and bags. We rode back the 3 hours to Huyro with the new set of volunteers, 4 women from England and a man from Belgium. One is staying for 4 months, but almost everyone else leaves at the same time I do. We are home early enough for everyone to un pack and I could wash my clothes, before supper. Our table is more crowded, and is loud with shared stories and laughter.
Good Night and Sweet Dreams
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janet
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Your weekend break
Hi my dear, Your descriptions and pictures show and tell of a very spectacular and magical place. Its almost as if you have been sucked back in time or at least to a place much further away from here than miles or kilometers can reflect. You were right to leave the best for the last.......I read on with much love J xoxo