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Published: April 6th 2014
Palenque town is compact with lots of places to stay and eat and easy minibus access to
Palenque ruins. Not much else around aside from crafts as far as I could tell. Spent 3 nights, 2 would have been better but I was frazzled after 2 all day journeys in 3 days, first from Lanquín to Sayaxché then Sayaxché to Palenque.
After Palenque I hit the Caribbean Coast at Playa del Carmen and the nearby ruins at
Tulum which were not impressive and today the ruins at
Ek' Balam near Valladolid which were very cool and not mobbed like Tulum most likely owing to the fact that's it's a bit of a production to get there but well worth it.
US$ ≈ 13 Mexican
pesos (M$)
Accommodation and food Arriving late after the interminably long trip from Guatemala, I was not up for a long hike around town looking for a place to stay. The area where the minivan from the border dropped me off was close to a bunch of expensive hotels and one hostel that only had private, double rooms. I headed further into town and landed at Hotel Kashlan in a double room with private hot water
bathroom and fan for M$200 which was a steal. There was good WiFi, drinking water, and a kitchen for the all important hot water to prepare my own coffee but not til the late hour of 9:00 when the restaurant opened.
First night I grabbed a couple of chicken
tamales from one of the street vendors in front of Taqueria Trompero. The
tamales were really good and only M$14 for 2 but their ice cold
horchata was even better at only M$7 a glass. While
commenting on how good it was compared to the
horchata in Guatemala the (presumably) vendor's son asked if I wanted more and refilled the large cup after I had downed half. Same thing happened next time I was there only for the beverage. Have also seen this practice in Colombia but nowhere else in Latin America.
Most meals I took at Comedor Yashalum 2 down the street from the hotel. Breakfasts for M$35 included scrambled eggs with
chorizo, beans, plantain,
tortilla chips, and a thick stack of
tortillas. Could also get M$30 quarter chicken dishes with beans, spaghetti, salad, and another pile of
tortillas. Eating there twice a day was enough. Also
Inside Temple of the Inscriptions
Former ruler Pakal's burial chamber, Palenque.checked out Restaurante Trotamundo for a massive M$100
almuerzo. Couple of pizza places on the main drag too, 3 pepperoni slices for M$48 at one.
Transport Buses leave from the ADO terminal to all parts of Mexico but if heading for Yucatán it is much cheaper (about half price) to go with the confusingly multi-named company just north of ADO (listen for the guys yelling, "Ocosingo"). Palenque to Playa del Carmen cost M$300 on a second class, freezing cold AC bus leaving from the highway junction at Playas de Catazajá (free shuttle from Palenque dep. 17:30) at 18:00 and arriving ~5:00. Same price to Tulum or Cancun.
For Guatemala, there are minivans leaving from near the roundabout at the south edge of town. These head to Frontera Corazal (2½ hours, M$80) until late in the afternoon.
Palenque Ruins M$59 entrance fee also good for the worthwhile museum if only to see the incredibly ornate tomb of Pakal. There is also a M$28 fee to access the national park where the ruins are located. Minivans depart from the center of Palenque every 10 minutes or so for M$10 although the driver will almost assuredly ask for M$20. Be
Palace
Palenque firm, wait for the next one, or be overcharged which I am always loathe to do especially when I know the actual price.
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Stacy Freeman
non-member comment
Cool stuff....
Did you run into Indiana Jones? Going to Mariner's game on Friday night with Clapton & Classic Steve - we'll have a round (or two or three) in your honor!