The Spice of Politics and the Politics of Spices


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October 3rd 2013
Published: October 5th 2013
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Election Balloons-Blue is the colour of the ruling governmentElection Balloons-Blue is the colour of the ruling governmentElection Balloons-Blue is the colour of the ruling government

Is there ever an election without balloons? I guess all elections are good for the rubber industry.
The Spice of Politics and the Politics of Spices:

This time we were off to Kandy, the city whose name has always brought images of striped peppermint canes to me, but only because I was never taught the history of Sri Lanka and how Kandy was the home of kings for centuries.

As it turned out, our stay would coincide with another Poya day, the monthly Buddhist holiday of the full-moon, which is a public holiday for Sri Lankans. As it turned out, we arrived on the last day of campaigning for the provincial elections in three northern provinces. (Provincial elections are not held country-wide, but are done in groups of provinces across a calendar year.)

The city was jammed with buses and people and it was electric with anticipation because it was said that the president, Mahinda Rajipaksa, would be arriving and giving a speech in support of local candidates. When we asked where he would be speaking, we were told no one ever knows for sure, so people gather in various possible spots around the city, in hopes. Finally it becomes clear, just before the time.

It became clear to us as we were making
Flood of supportersFlood of supportersFlood of supporters

Down the street came an enthusiastic flood of supporters. Or at least people who could use a new t-shirt.
our way through the Central Markets and when we wanted to ascend a staircase to an upper level we were told we needed to step into booths where people wearing white plastic gloves were inspecting those entering. "No way", I said and backed off.

A little later we had stopped down the street for a refreshing drink of juice and suddenly vehicles with loudspeakers and crowds of shouting supporters in identical t-shirts flooded past our cafe. Back at the Central Markets the enthusiasts were gathering with balloons and promoting their favoured candidates by colours and numbers. Someone was haranguing the crowd over a public address system at very high decibels, but as we don't speak Sinhala we could understand nothing except the general intention.

The following 2 days would be free of overt campaigning and the election would be on the Saturday.

In the calm Poya day (Thursday) which followed we got into some sightseeing. The first place we went to was the Spice Garden in Peradeniya. Entrance is free and we were shown around by a trained herbalist who showed us many plants used in both cooking and Ayurvedic medicine, which is the traditional herbal medicine
White shirtsWhite shirtsWhite shirts

This crowd is in white t-shirts--are they for a different candidate? The leaflets being passed out were in Sinhala so we could only understand the general flow of events.
of Sri Lanka. We were shown many plants whose products we were familiar with, but whose bearing plants were new to us. Pepper grows on vines? Cardamom seeds grow next to the ground on a plant that looks a bit like ginger? Here is a nutmeg tree, this is how vanilla beans grow, here is a cinnamon tree, here a ginger plant, here are coffee beans, still green, on their tree. For every plant, the herbalist told us what body ills the plant could cure or help with. It was fascinating, and I started looking in amazement and forgot to keep taking pictures.

The herbalist would list what Ayurvedic medicine is allowed to publically claim and what it can't. For example, it can help with developing hair loss, but when Phil removed his hat and the man saw Phil's almost bald pate he said there was nothing it could do for actual baldness and it wasn't allowed to advertise a cure for baldness. He explained that if the hair follicles were still alive, the condition could be reversed, but eventually they die off and then it's too late.

After the garden tour we were taken to a little
Mahinda Rajipaksa overlooks the crowdMahinda Rajipaksa overlooks the crowdMahinda Rajipaksa overlooks the crowd

At first sight we think the president, in his signature white outfit with red scarf, has arrived, but it was only an enlarged photo.
open shelter and shown the various products the Spice Garden sold (of course!). Then we were offered sample massages with their therapeutic red oil. I had had an Ayurvedic massage in Galle, so I was quick to say yes, and Phil gave in as well.

It would be fair to say we left the Spice Garden well oiled!


Additional photos below
Photos: 20, Displayed: 20


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Blue enthusiasts circle the marketsBlue enthusiasts circle the markets
Blue enthusiasts circle the markets

These young fellows were riding around the perimeter of the Central Markets, enthusiastically promoting Number 6.
Hills LodgeHills Lodge
Hills Lodge

This is the little hotel we stayed at, in the hills high above Kandy, up an unbelievably terrible road.
Hills Lodge living roomHills Lodge living room
Hills Lodge living room

The hotel was light and airy, clean and very friendly.
Hills Lodge balconyHills Lodge balcony
Hills Lodge balcony

I loved sitting out on the balconies checking my email and drinking in the view of the distant mountains and down the valley to Kandy.
Hills Lodge ViewHills Lodge View
Hills Lodge View

There was often cloud covering the far mountains, but sometimes we got a longer view.
Hills Lodge upper neighbours Hills Lodge upper neighbours
Hills Lodge upper neighbours

Just up the road from us was the Kandyan View boutique hotel and the tower and building associated with Dialog Communications.
Spice garden pepper vine Spice garden pepper vine
Spice garden pepper vine

Did you know that pepper grew on a vine?
PeppercornsPeppercorns
Peppercorns

On one cluster there are green, red and black peppers.
Coconut shell landscapingCoconut shell landscaping
Coconut shell landscaping

I thought the coconut shells were a terrific way to border and secure the gardens.
Coffee beans, still unripe.Coffee beans, still unripe.
Coffee beans, still unripe.

Much as we love a good coffee, the herbalist was clear that coffee has NO therapeutic value for the body.
Spice garden information hut Spice garden information hut
Spice garden information hut

Surrounded by a cloud of incense, were we softened for the sell?
Sample head massage with their famous red oilSample head massage with their famous red oil
Sample head massage with their famous red oil

Far be it from me to turn down a head massage! Derrian, I still remember the first one I had, from you.
Ayurvedic productsAyurvedic products
Ayurvedic products

The Spice Garden produced many products and here they are for purchase.
Spice Garden herbalistSpice Garden herbalist
Spice Garden herbalist

This very informative and pleasant man gave us the tour of the fascinating garden.


5th October 2013

Elections & Herbalist
What a fantastic post! It was so interesting on the political as well as the herbal. I hope you'll still remember all the uses of the different herbs so you can give me the knowledge when we meet again. How is the work side of Sri Lanka going for you both? Lots of love. M xx
5th October 2013

Wonderful to read about your journeys, Martha and Philip!!!! Lots of love!

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