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Published: July 12th 2013
Amazing, amazing day today.
The only time I enjoy tours are when they are based in culture/history and/or take you out of the city - the Total Siege Tour with Sarajevo Funky Tours delivered on both accounts.
And yes, best name ever for a company. With the best guides, ever. Skender and his Dad. This truly was one of the most informative tours I have ever gone on: Skender knows his stuff and it's not just from a book - he gave us the information, but also told us personal stories from when he was a child during the siege (hiding in the basement, the lunch packets from the UN, craving chocolate lol) and also about his Dad who fought to protect the city. It's something else hearing them describe that chapter of their lives - they really are inspirational - and yet the tour isn't depressing, he's so upbeat and just passionate about what he's doing. I love it.
We started at the Tunnel of Hope which was about a 20min drive - which was great because he took that time to give us a rundown of the lead-up to the War and the Siege. Finally, information! As we drove along he pointed things out that I'd seen at the Museum, so that was good too (the market where the attacks took place, Sniper Alley, etc.) The sniper thing is what I find the most terrifying, I think. For some reason it's not something I had ever really thought of - I can't imagine every time you went outside, not knowing if you'd make it across the street... it's insane. Skender also talked about the different artillery used - the makeshift weapons Sarajevo troops had to come up with, how dangerous the mortars were (up and down - if you were under the sky, you weren't safe), how snipers were up in the mountains which surround the city... so no where was really safe... it is insane to think of.
The Tunnel was interesting to see - it's a tunnel that passed under the airport which allowed the troops to pass from Sarajevo out of the city into Free Bosnian Territory. It was also used by locals to get food since food was so scarce during the siege. Before the tunnel they had to run across the airport/field which was Russian roulette really... snipers all around. Most of the Tunnel is closed off now, but there is a small section open which we got to walk thru: it's only wide enough for one person, and I'd say less than 5 feet high. It's very cramped. Skender's Dad was funny - he was joking that if he met the architect he'd give him a good hit - like how hard would it have been to make it a foot deeper so that the men could stand instead of hunch over for the walk haha.
Next we drove up into Trebevic, one of the mountains where we spent most of the rest of the tour. We visited some old ruins and an old hotel (first for people... then turned into a "tank hotel" during the War). That was incredible - they area has obviously been swept for mines, so to be able to go into the bombed out ruins and walk along was something else.
The seriousness of the moment was broken up by two events:
1 - Brit boys on our tour were debating hopping from one landing to another... but it didn't look overly steady. They debated whether or not insurance would cover jumping around abandoned ruins. They opted not to.
2 - I could hear... wind-chimes? No. It couldn't be. But it was getting louder. And louder. Finally I realized there was a herd of goats and they had bells on their necks haha. I am smart.
From there, we drove up to another point in the mountains which used to be a restaurant with a cable car down into the city. Apparently there are plans to rebuild the cable car in the near future. This spot was stunningly beautiful though - the view of the city down below. But then we were told this is where a lot of the snipers set up because it was such a view into the city. It's incredible to stand that far away and think that people a) could shoot that far, b) that they would hit people, c) that people can actually do that to other people...
Lastly we went to the old bobsled track from the Olympics - very cool! It obviously wasn't maintained during the war (or afterwards...) so it's basically a graffiti pit you can walk down now! He hopped over the ledge and walked down the entire thing - really great to see the artwork on the walls and not too often you can say you walked a bobsled track.
Best question at the bottom: "is there still ice on it during winter?" "Well... no. It's artificial ice for the track." "REALLY?!?" He followed that question up with a brief explanation of how they create the ice and ended with, "well I'm sure many of you don't have bobsled tracks in your countries anyway..." I shouldn't laugh at people. I shouldn't.
So, that was that. If you're ever in Sarajevo - look Funky Tours up - they are well worth it.
Oh yes. Nearly forgot. While waiting for the tour to begin, I met... oh I don't remember his name. It was Bosnian. He owns a hostel nearby and Skender basically walked me over to him and was like here you guys talk while we wait for the others haha. Oh my God he was a character.
He kept telling me he didn't speak English... but he did pretty well. He asked the usual where are you from/what do you do/where are you going next/have you been type of thing. I told him I was leaving tomorrow and he made the biggest pout face - "you stay another night. Here. For free! Seriously, you have to stay another night." I politely declined, saying I already booked my bus (lies!) and such. "Ok, ok but you keep my email. Next time!" Yes. Sure.
I went to fix my hair by flipping my head to do a bun and he's like: "want me to grab you blowdryer? I have blowdryer." I had to laugh... like, what?
Our talk about Canada was fun. He asked if I was from the British or French part... uh... I'm on the border...? Haha. Yes. Clearly. Been awhile since someone's asked me that in that terminology - usually it's "you must be from the English part" or they assume we're all bilingual.
We then talked about teaching, he said he wanted to be my pupil. I'm like: oh, you want to learn French? "No. You can teach me English. (he hugged my arm) I will be the best student ever. Very quiet. And I work hard." Oh, you cute old man. "Best student for best teacher."
Conversation ended with. "So... where is your boyfriend? Or girlfriend? Either is fine." He started patting my arm haha. I said he was back in Canada. Ahem. "Oh. Oh he must be patient." Yeah. I travel every summer... nothing new. "Ok. Ok you don't tell him about me. Be quiet. Very quiet. Don't want him to be jealous."
Oh God I am laughing all over again. WHY DO THESE THINGS HAPPEN TO ME ahahahaha. (I secretly love it - great stories that make me laugh). I'm laughing even harder now because I'm remembering the guy in Frankfurt Airport who grabbed my hand and told me my future by reading my palm and told me I'd always hold his heart because he could see it in my eyesssss. And the old pervy Parisian men. And my random Spaniard in Lithuania. Oh my goodness. Men, you are funny in the world of travelling.
So, that was my day. Had another amazingly cheap and delicious supper (cheese pies/pitas) - nummy num. Heading out tomorrow - but definitely a great time here in Sarajevo.
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Irene
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Bosnian boyfriend
Funny to read about your new Bosnian boyfriend. I can get you scrunchie maybe? Flat iron perhaps? ...