Sibu (16-18 May 13)

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After the Niah caves, it was a 5h journey southwestwards across a good chunk of the state, towards Sibu, the confluence of the Batang Rejang (Malaysia's longest river) and other major distributaries, and also the second largest city of the state. It was from here that I intended to head upriver to one of the riverside towns lying deeper within Malaysian Borneo, from where perhaps I could pay a visit to a traditional longhouse.

I'd read in Wikitravel that Sibu was a bit of a sketchy town, home to shady characters connected to the timber barons of the area. I wasn't quite sure what to expect. Having already been to both Miri and Labuan, places with notable nightlife, and finding both places in fact much less seedy than their reputations suggested, I thought this aspect of Sibu might also have been exaggerated.

But Sibu was indeed different. I can't quite put my finger on it, but just walking around town, I couldn't help but feel an undercurrent of crime. Perhaps it was the dodgy-looking woman who greeted me at the first guesthouse I tried, and who, after fishing for my background information, attempted to convince me to stay at the same guesthouse as her. Of course I had reflexive suspicions about her, and quickly spirited away to another hotel.

Walking around in the evenings, I also couldn't help but notice disproportionately more scantily-clad women, and dangerous-looking guys (punkish hair, tattoos, ripped T-shirts and jeans, yes the whole stereotypical lot) hanging around, especially at night. I think for the first time also during my time here in East Malaysia so far, I saw a police squad car, attending to some kind of dispute in the streets. Some one on Wikitravel had even (quite humorously) warned about "gossip (being) endemic" in town, so I'd do well to keep a low profile haha.

But it wasn't just all gangs and molls, of course. In the midst of this "colour", there was a vibrant Foochow (the largest Chinese dialect group here) community, and the usual bustle of a medium-sized, and historically important riverside town. There weren't that many touristy sights per se, so I took the opportunity to enjoy some downtime, before I take the 3h long cramped boat ride upriver to my next destination, Kapit.

Stayed at Tiong Yiing Hotel.

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Photos

Sibu Swan
I like how LP puts it. Sarawak's second city aspires to be a swan, but it really is the ugly duckling compared to the capital.

Sibu's Shady Characters
For those who can't read Chinese, this poster attempts to shame a borrower out of hiding by posting his particulars, along with some unflattering descriptions like "womaniser" and "dog". All in a day's work for a local Sibu loanshark.

Space Shuttles
Yes the somewhat oddly-shaped elongated boats that scoot up the Batang Rejang.

Malaysian 20 Sen Coin
I've always thought it looks like a gun. It is, of course, upside down, and really is a building, along with the Islamic crescent and star.

Kolo Mee
Roughly translated as "dry-tossed noodles", this seems to a staple in East Malaysia, or at least certainly more so than on the Peninsular. The Sibu version is particularly good.

Tua Pek Kong Temple
Pretty much Sibu's only real tourist attraction.

Comments

[Yi]

I was in sibu too!
Hey jeremy! What a coincidence! I was in sibu on the 18th too!! For a friend's wedding.. But what are the odds!! Too bad we didn't bump into each other. Was too busy buying 40 pieces of kom pia to tapau back to kl. -__- anyway, safe travels!!

[piranha27]

That is indeed an incredible coincidence! Well I guess in any case I was already heading up river to Kapit on the morning of the 18th, but yes, very very surprising. I didn't know they are famous for kom pia (what is that?). I just ate A LOT of Kolo Mee... Btw I read about your sister's engagement on FB. Pls send her my congratulations!