Final days alone in India and greetings from Singapore; the 'Switzerland' of Asia!

Asia » Singapore » Raffles Marina
May 6th 2013

Published: May 6th 2013

My final days in India were spent mainly with the dogs, I also experienced a range of different emotions (which will be explained below). The pack of dogs at the hotel continued to follow my every move, they proved great company. I had felt pretty strange (if not a little lonely) after Jen had left. I missed the giggles, companionship and conversation... But overall just missed spending time with Jen. But I felt fortunate to have the dogs at least, who each served as loyal companions 😊

 In the mornings, I continued getting up early and had breakfast on the beach. I watched 40 fisherman (approximately 20 on each side of the net) spend nearly two hours hurling in a mahoosive net in from the sea. They sang as they 'heaved-ho' with all their might. Amid the sounds of the crashing waves, this made for a beautiful wake up call. The waiter I'd befriended explained the fishermen do this ritual every day and (on a good day) each take home approximately 50 rupees per day (around 60p) - which means in total, per working week, they earn around £1.20 (£4.80 per month). Incredible, considering how hard they work. And yet a good salary compared with the rest of the country.

 Sadly, I didn't end my Indian trip on a high. Firstly the attention goes up a notch (or two...) when you're on your own. I had various offers to take me home and offers of 'lunch' - I've no doubt all very genuine offers, but after a while I felt a little harassed. (But on reflection, maybe this was all intensified because I was alone. Looking back now, it probably wasn't too bad.)

 On my walks with the dogs, I had various men suddenly start walking alongside me, asking me the usual questions such as, "are you married?" ... "do you have boyfriend?" ... etc - again all very innocent I think, but most of the time I just wanted to walk alone, especially when not at Ark and just with the pack from the hotel.

 I felt very safe with those dogs, a couple of men (after I refused offers of lunch more than five times...) took hold of my hair, exclaiming how much they 'liked it' and how 'pretty it was'. At this point the most dominant dog of the pack (and the one I bonded with the most, Ardune) stopped walking and barked at the men, they in turn let go of my hair and walked off! I'm still in awe of Ardune. Never underestimate a dog's intelligence and their ability to sense a potentially bad situation.

 I didn't feel threatened though (I'm double, if not triple, the size of all of these men - no exaggeration) but I felt uncomfortable and my personal space slightly invaded, which I believe Ardune picked up on. From that moment onwards I spent my whole time with this pack and was consequently quite upset leaving them.

 Then on my last day, I was enjoying a pepsi and vegetable noodles on the beach, the two dogs were as usual sleeping at my feet, Coonyan (white dog) was underneath a table two tables away from me. We'd been there for over an hour, as usual the dogs weren't causing any bother and were curled up sleeping. Then out of nowhere, a vile man picked up a huge rock and hurled it at the white dog - for no apparent reason. It hit him right in the stomach, so hard the dog yelped, fell backwards, which knocked over the chair and fell on top of him. The poor thing was absolutely terrified and ran away yelping. I could not BELIEVE what I had just witnessed - the dogs are so good here and so submissive to humans (now I know why), they don't cause any bother. To hurl a rock at an innocent, sleeping, dog for no apparent reason is disgusting!? I was so angry, I stood up and shouted over to him, "What did you do that for?! That's disgusting, he was doing nothing?!"'...

Unfortunately by this point I was fuming, so regrettably I lost my cool and became overly emotive, which is never a good way to handle situations. I felt incensed. I then walked over to him and said, "Back home I would report you to the police - that's disgusting, why did you do that?" A little naive of me perhaps. Unfortunately, at this point he spat at me. Albeit not in my face, on my feet - he said nothing, just glared at me. I was so shocked that he spat at me (western ignorance I admit) I actually started shaking and if I'm completely honest, at that point, I felt an overwhelming desire to physically hurt him. Fortunately though (for some miraculous reason) calm took over, I took a deep breath and walked back to the other dogs (still lying underneath where I'd been sitting - Coonyan had long gone) and said nothing. All the while he was glaring at me, I was still shaking and couldn't bring myself to eat, I felt physically sick. So I pushed my chair aside, sat on the sand with the dogs, grabbed my plate and fed them my noodles. I stayed there for another half hour, most of that time the man continued to glare at me, I returned his stare every now and then and shook my head at him, still incensed.

 A waiter (the nice man I'd befriended) came over and asked if I was OK, at this point I felt like bursting into tears. Unlike me. But I was fuming still. The waiter exclaimed all of the men do this here, especially in the mornings because they "don't like the dogs and find it funny" to which I replied, "It's a disgusting, deranged power trip and cruel." The waiter also said the man had been drinking and I shouldn't get involved with him. I ignored him thereafter.

 On reflection, I could have handled the situation a lot better by remaining calm and not allowing my emotions to spill over. But actually witnessing cruelty being inflicted on an innocent creature, made me sick.

 I know this is only a tiny example of some of the cruelty which goes on here, I'm not naive enough to think that hurling rocks at sleeping dogs is the worst it gets either. But it still shocked me all the same and to then be spat at, just shows how little respect this idiot has.

 I would like to think that I'm open minded enough to be able to embrace and accept different cultures and I think I've been pretty liberal so far. But the minute innocent creatures are inflicted with cruelty, over some vile power trip and/or some deranged attempt to flatter the 'male' ego.. I admit I'm no longer tolerant.

 Consequently it was a shame to leave on that note, I was angry and upset (and experiencing this all alone, I'm aware probably only intensified these feelings). Coonyan came back eventually, I checked him over and he had an open wound on his stomach, but sadly there was not much I could do. I just hoped it wouldn't get infected and spent the last of my rupees buying food from the restaurant to give to the dogs. Now I understand why they followed me everywhere (not just for the food and attention) but also for safety. When lying by my feet, the men wouldn't abuse them. Consequently I felt pretty upset leaving them.
 Still, I have to keep remembering that they've survived this long and for 95% of the time in India, it has been nothing but an incredibly positive experience. Just a shame to end on such a negative note.

 Anyway, after a cramped and tiresome flight (and still reeling from the incident), I finally touched down in Singapore at 5.30 in the morning.

 It's almost like having to adapt and readjust yourself to a completely new culture again. Singapore is a vastly different to the Asian mainland. It's orderly, clean, regulated, rich and expensive... The list of contrasts is endless.

 It also has a reputation for it's sterile predictability, hence it's nickname 'the Switzerland of Asia'. I was also told it's known as, 'Disneyland with the death penalty' ...!

 Singapore is populated by Malaysians, Indians, Chinese and people from all across the globe. It being a very multicultural country, means you can walk along the streets completely hassle/stare free, which comes as a welcome change I admit. Actually, I suppose Singapore could be seen as a welcome respite from the poverty, dirt, chaos and crime of India.

 There are many societal restrictions here in Singapore, for example; alcohol is extremely pricey and generally not encouraged (so weird, I was watching a kids cartoon on arrival and the main character was drinking, but it had been 'blurred' out!), chewing gum can only be bought from a pharmacy for medical use, any form of entertainment (films, games etc) can't be imported into the country unless sent and approved by the board of censors first. Publications of Jehovah's Witnesses can't be imported either! If you have any strong medication (like co-codomal) then you need a prescription before bringing it into the country - sorry Jen, I had to bin the ones you gave me at the airport 😞 If you're caught with drugs, you will be hanged 7 days later...

 It's all extremely regulated and actually feels quite sterile to be honest. It feels like there's a distinct lack of creative freedom and expression here too - but this is just a personal/subjective response I admit and not necessarily true. To give Singapore credit though, it is one of the safest cities in the world (I'm not surprised).

 On my first day, I asked for a map so I could take a wonder through the city and down to Marina Bay. The hotelier was horrified at the thought of me walking 'such a distance' and proceeded to call a taxi - I managed to stop him just in time. He said I should walk to Chinatown as it's 'in walking distance' but not to go into the city as it's 'too far'. Bless his good intentions - completely ignored of course. I hurled my mini rucksack onto my back and spent the next five hours (with only a map and bottle of water for company - I missed my dogs 😞 ... ) and explored a great deal of the city on foot - the best way to get a feel for the place (and a feel for the locals) I think.

 I found the whole experience quite a culture shock having spent the last three weeks in India. If anything, I felt strangely out of place. It's an extremely tidy and clean city, exceptionally huge and expensive architecture, everyone dresses smartly, various signs all over the place reminding you that it's '7 years imprisonment for theft' and a hefty fine for 'littering' etc. There is literally NO litter anywhere!?

 Personally (and this is purely subjective I know) - I just found it all a little too 'perfect' and a little too 'clinical'. I got the sense that if anyone dared oppose any of the various regulations being implemented here... You'd be hurled into prison, cease to exist, no questions asked! Probably a little far fetched... But my initial thoughts all the same.

 The people are all very nice and polite, predominantly malaysians. But the general feel of the place reminds me a little too much of 'stepford wives'. There's little depth or character to the place and I feel suspicious of anything which tries to portray itself as anything but 'perfect' ... Perfection doesn't exist, there are flaws to everything and everyone(!)

 Having said the above, it is of course a welcome break not to witness any more poverty and you're left very much to your own devices - which I appreciated considering my last few days in India.

 Up early tomorrow, I booked myself in with a local guide so I'll be able to learn more about the history etc and maybe I'll be able to comment more objectively then. The following day after that, I leave for Darwin, Australia - I can't tell you how much I'm looking forward to spending time with friends and meeting Liz and James' new baby, Sophia. At that point (after 7 days on my own) I certainly will welcome the company. I realise I much prefer travelling in the company of others, but a great experience all the same. Will write again soon and upload pictures when I have full access to a computer, lots of love for now.

Final days alone in India and greetings from Singapore; the 'Switzerland' of Asia!

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