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Jantar Mantar
This is an oversized sun dial, which can be read via the shadow the sun casts. Very clever and over 300 years old.The bus journey between Pushkar and Jaipur was an easy 3.5 hour trip. The bus pulled in to the front of the hotel, loaded our luggage, and we were underway. It was fairly modern and clean and we were the only passengers on board at first, although we did the usual pick up/drop off along the way. Much to my surprise, we used an expressway for the entire trip, except for a couple of dusty diversions into towns to pick up passengers. So, I reached Hotel Palms in Jaipur not feeling too shattered. The bus dropped us right outside the hotel, which was a bonus.
Things were looking up, I thought, when we entered the foyer. Air conditioning, comfortable leather look seating and a lift! No extra charges for air conditioning or wifi, a definate improvement. The biggest letdown was to discover that we were staying in the old part of the hotel. The lift was for the new front rooms, not ours. So we followed the porter up steps and through a maze of corridors to the old section of the hotel. There's a small swimming pool outside my room, but the water level is low and there are
no filters running, so I'll give it a miss. I'm a long way from the free wifi which is only in the lobby... We have an hour to settle in before our orientation walk at 12.30pm.
The mercury is hitting 40 degrees, and a walk at this time seems a little crazy, when everyone wants to stay out of the heat. Bishon takes us down a busy street, lined with shabby shopfronts, but I do see brands I recognise - Adidas, Levi, Benneton, Canon and McDonalds where we end up eating lunch. I indulged in a McFlurry ice cream and enjoyed every mouthful! There's not a lot to see, Sanganer Gate, one of the entrances to the old city was pointed out to us and then we returned to the hotel to get out of the heat.
A Bollywood cinema night has been planned for tonight. We are going to see a new release Indian movie called 'Ek Thi Daayan', (There Was A Witch). Mind you, there are no subtitles and we won't understand a word but everyone wants to go anyway. Raj Mandir Cinema was a pleasant surprise, with its beautiful art deco design it was more
The Palace of the Winds
Covered in scaffolding. like a casino with its impressive foyer and staircase. The seats could have been more comfortable but the sound was great and they sold popcorn, so everyone was happy.
The film was cheesy - Bollywood dancing, a woman who delved in the supernatural, a man hopelessly in love with her who kills her in the end. Every so often they would speak English and than revert back to Hindi so we could follow the storyline well enough. The cinema wasn't quiet, mobiles rang, people talked, babies cried and appreciative noises were made during the very tame love scenes. We had an interval half way through and everyone disappeared to buy more popcorn. It was rather entertaining.
On Friday I'm up and out, looking for breakfast, just after 7.00am. I went to the hotel in front of Hotel Palms where it took them half an hour to organise cornflakes, tea and toast, which set me back $2.20. After leaving here, I tuk tukked into the old city. Of course I was too early and nothing was open. The bazaars don't get underway until 11.00am and I felt a little uneasy walking here, which is a first since leaving home,
The Palace of the Winds
Taken inside the Palace - the six open doors just caught my eye. so I decided to return to the hotel.
The tuk tuk driver had no idea where he was going, despite me giving him the hotel card. He asked directions several times and I eventually got back. He then tried to hit me up for a higher fare which he didn't get. I put 100 rupees, our agreed price, on his seat and walked away.
There are a lot of places to visit in Jaipur, so eight of us are going with Bishon today on a combined ticket. Cost is 250 rupees ($4.50) and give us entry to five attractions - The Amer Fort, Palace of the Winds, Jantar Mantar, which is an astronomical observatory, Albert Hall and Nahargarh Fort, one of the three forts which surround Jaipur.
Our first stop was Hawa Mahal, literally meaning, palace of the winds. This is an important landmark of the city of Jaipur. It is an interesting building, although it is actually little more than a facade. Probably, this honeycombed building was originally built to facilitate the women of the royal household to watch the everyday life and processions of the city.
There is no definite record as to why
Hawa Mahal was built. It certainly was not meant for residential purposes. That becomes clear when you view this unusual structure from the rear side. There is a total lack of ornamentation on the inner face of the building. The chambers of Hawa Mahal are plain and mere mass of pillars and passages leading to the top story. It does not seem to be part of the same building.
Built at a time when royal ladies observed very strict purdah (covering of the face), it is widely believed that this interesting palace, with its screened balconies, provided the ladies of the royal household an opportunity to watch processions and other activities on the streets below without being observed themselves. The openings in the Hawa Mahal are almost like peepholes, partially blocked by fine latticework in lime plaster, and some with plain wooden windows. The Hawa Mahal lives up to its name as one climbs up to the balconies and is almost swept away by the breeze.
The Palace of the Winds is the most photographed building in India besides the Taj Mahal. Unfortunately for me, the entire facade was covered in bamboo scaffolding and I couldn't get a
decent photo.
Next stop was Jantar Mantar. This interesting place is actually a collection of architectural astronomical instruments, built by the king between 1727 and 1734. He had constructed a total of five such facilities at different locations, including another one in Delhi, but the Jaipur observatory is the largest and best preserved of these.
Regardless of the heat, we continued our sight seeing, next stop being Amer Fort, which is located in Amer, 11 klm from Jaipur. It is one of the principal tourist attractions in the Jaipur area, located high on a hill. It's known for its artistic style, blending both Hindu and Rajput elements. With its large ramparts, series of gates and cobbled paths, the fort overlooks the Maota Lake, at its forefront. We hired a guide here to show us around and give us a history lesson. It always adds to the experience to learn a little about the places we're visiting.
It was 4.30pm by the time we got back to town after leaving the fort. We had run out of time, and stamina, and decided that visiting the other two attractions wasn't going to happen. We returned to the hotel for
Banged Up Bus - Jaipur
Can you imagine this being allowed on the roads at home? cool showers and some relaxation time before heading out to dinner at 7.30pm.
The next day we find ourselves in the lobby again by 6.45am, ready to catch the bus to Bharatpur. I was able to get tea and toast before I left, simply by asking, even though the kitchen wasn't officially opened for breakfast until 7.00am.
The trip took 4.5 hours, once again along an expressway, stopping four times to pay tolls. Another relatively easy trip, with a stop halfway, boasting the cleanest toilets I've used in India. A woman was actually scrubbing the cubicle floors...
On arrival in Bharatpur, we piled into very battered tuk tuks and were driven down a dreadful gravel/bitumen road to our accomodation, The Birder's Inn. That road rivals the road outside Globalteer House in Cambodia as being the worst one I've ever had the misfortune to pass over.
But, The Birder's Inn was a pleasant surprise. A lovely sandstone and glass hotel with marble floors, grassed courtyards and a swimming pool! No extra charges for air conditioning and wifi and a proper dining room with white tablecloths. Certainly more upmarket than any other accomodation we've had on this trip,
Jaiper Street Scene
These women were gathered around men making jewellery from beads. which has been the most basic available.
Apart from the Keoladeo Bird Sanctuary there is absolutely nothing to do or see in Bharatpur. Not being all that keen to spent hot afternoon hours in a noisy tuk tuk playing 'spot the bird' I decided not to go. So, I spent the afternoon having a quick swim, followed by a long shower and a nap in the comfort of my air conditioned room.
We're not spending any more time than necessary in Bharatpur, and tomorrow morning have a 2.5 hour bus trip to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal.
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D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley
We enjoyed our time in India
Really enjoyed your photos. They brought back some nice memories.