Agra Antics

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Yesterday morning at about 06:00 I was awoken by the calls of the Chai wallah (man selling sweet tea) walking up and down the night train selling sweet smelling Chai. I peered out the window to see large red bastions which I presumed must be Agra Fort. The gentleman in the bed opposite told me that the train was not going to be stopping at Agra Cantonment despite it being on the schedule. This meant that not only did we have to deflate our pillows (Nanny & Grandad- we have used these every night bar the first two and they are brilliant!) and un-padlock our rucksacks at speed before being turfed off the train at the next station. We called our driver and let him know that we were instead at Agra Fort and he was with us in about five minutes. Mr Singh is a kind and friendly Sikh always running off to get us change or lending us change when water sellers are trying desperately hard to get us to overpay. We are travelling in a white Maruti Suzuki Swift with the most glorious AC.

Our first stop was to check into Rose Hotel the guesthouse we would be staying in that night. The English speaking manager was much friendlier and helpful than the female lady at reception who nearly put me off the whole place altogether. The hotel itself was in a suburb of Agra and the room was clean even if the shower was again cold. We slept for three hours then met Mr Singh for a day trip round Agra.

First stop was Agra Fort. Built by Akbar this huge sandstone building was the stronghold of the Mughal empire for successive generations. As with most of the fortifications in India, Andrew and I have been stunned by the sheer scale of them. Windsor and Dover castle seemed dwarfs in comparison. The level of artwork that goes into the carving of the stone is simply stunning. It took us nearly 2 hours to walk round the huge complex, taking in the previous home of the infamous Peacock throne before it was moved to Delhi and then stolen.

Next we headed to the so-called “Baby Taj” or Itmad-ud-Daulah built by Akbar as atomb for Mirza Ghiyath Beg a Chief Wazir of Akbar's court. Designed by his daughter, the “Baby Taj” is a beautiful mausoleum of similar design to the Taj Mahal but with a pavilion instead of a domed roof. Again, the level of detail that went into every column was amazing.

We had a basic lunch and iced tea at a cafe chain we have beagan to recognise with the slogan “a lot can happen over coffee.” It didn't. Next stop the Taj Mahal!

To get to the Taj Mahal you have to take an electric shuttle bus up the road to the main gate. From there you walk though a red sandstone forecourt and the Taj arises from the archway. Described by the poet Rabdinranath Tagore as a “tear on the face of eternity” the Taj is a monument dedicated to Shah Jehan's love of his wife. Well, his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. I think the other wives must have been rather gutted to be honest. Mumtaz Mahal died whilst giving birth to her 14^th child in 1631 which gives some cause for her husband to have loved her. The calligraphy that adorns the gateway, mosque and tombs is cleverly shaped so that although they are in fact increasing in size as they continue upwards, the give the effect that all the writing is the same size.

The Taj Mahal is all I had hoped it to be and more, the North to South canal was full of water contrary to what my Guidebook had foretold and the leafy gardens were a refreshing break from the 45 degree sun. I can easily say I have never seen a more beautiful building. Words don't do it justice. In the evening we went to watch the sunset from Mehtab Garden directly opposite the South side of the Taj. Unfortunately it wasn't a very clear night so it was difficult to see the Taj's changing colours but the view was still awe-inspiring. We headed back tired but very happy with all we had managed to see and do.

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Comments

[Oliver]

Love from Grampa!
Lovely--and evocative commentary.So glad you are having a great time Love frae tropical Scotland--frost at night no leaves on the tress and steaming + 10c by day!! Grampa/Olly

[Gaurav Mittal]

Lesser Known Architectural wonders of Agra
A must read blog i must say, it covers the Taj Mahal in such a depth, that I no longer feel stranger to that place. Well, there are other tombs in Agra, which will delight you, for information on them, please go through this blog: http://www.myguesthouse.com/chaturyatri/the-other-tombs-of-agra/