A Gem By the Sea -- San Sebastián, Spain

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Paris to San Sebastián, Spain

The only thing we knew about San Sebastián was it on the way from Paris to Seville and that it was a good point to spend the night. We caught the day train from Paris at 07:30 and traveled across France until evening.

Change in Irun

The last station in France was Irun and that is where we had to change trains for the twenty to thirty minute ride to San Sebastián. I had selected San Sebastián as we could catch the train to Seville there in the morning. Another day train and an opportunity to see the Spanish countryside. Travel between countries that are part of the Schengen agreement is so much easier now than previously. No border checks, no passport checks. It is like crossing state lines in the States. Our wait was only about twenty or thirty minutes. Once on the train it was another twenty or so minutes and we were in San Sebastián.

A Very Convenient Hotel

We stayed at the Hotel Terimus and I do not believe there could be a more convenient hotel when traveling by train. The hotel is on the train platform, just a few steps from the station. What can be better than that? We didn't even have to cross the street. We walked the few steps and entered the hotel.

After registering we took our two carry-on bags to the room and stowed them. It was still light outside. Knowing we might never be here again we left the hotel and went to see the sights.

You might ask, didn't the trains keep you awake?

The answer is "No". The windows were double or triple glazed and deadened the sound of passing trains. We slept well, no problems from sound at all. the reason I slept so well was the fantastic mattress. I was surprised that the accommodations in this small hotel right beside the train tracks were as comfortable as the name brand hotels in larger cities. Yeah for the good mattress for these old painful shoulders and hips!

Walking Around San Sebastián

For the tourist the interesting part of town, and this includes the Old Town, lies across the Maria Christina bridge that spans the Urumea River from the train station. Only a few blocks beyond the bridge you come to the Bay of La Conch which is an inlet of the Bay of Biscay. Depending on the era this has been good and not so good. It was good during peaceful times and not so good during times of war. Napoleonic forces once took control of the town. This brought the English. On August 31st, 1813 British and Portugese troops assaulted San Sebastián. The soldiers ransacked and burnt the town. Only the street now named, 31 August Street, remained unharmed. One of the hotel workers told us of this event and if I read their body language and tone of voice correctly some ill will is still held toward the Portugese and British troops. People have long memories in Europe.

It did not take us long to say to each other, "This is a really neat town. This would be a good place to bring a family. This was reinforced when we saw one of the two the cresent beaches. It was December, but people were walking on the beach and surf boarding. It is a beautiful beach.

Old Town San Sebastián

Walking through the narrow streets of old town was lots of fun. Old town is called, Parte Vieja and though this was a week night it was filled with people enjoying the numerous restaurants, tapas bars and shops. It is alive!

Here we found the 16th century church of Iglesia de San Vincente Monte Urgull. Old churches, like this one, are absolute magnets for us. As soon as we spy one, we turn and head to the main door to see if it is open. This one was and my unusal feeling of awe come over me. How many people have worshipped here through the years? What skill the builders had when constructing the church. Through five centuries this has been the home church to so many who lived, hoped, prayed, were christened, baptized, married and died here. Wonder and awe ... awe and wonder fill me in these ancient places.




More photos below

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Photos

San Sebastián beach
Late evening on the beach.

San Sebastián beach
The beach at night.

Ancient church
The architecture was unlike any other church we have ever seen

San Sebastián
A river runs through it.

Sunset over the hills
The town is on the coast but high hills are nearby across the beach

Comments

[laura olsen]

San Sebastian
Thank you for sharing your marvelous experiences with those of us who will never get to the places you do. Photos and personal accounts will live on. Thanks for keeping such a journal.

[Bob Harrison]

Lovely to read about your curiosity, oomph and initiative. The photos certainly enhance your comments. In July 1971 I remember the train station at Irun and the poignant sunset seen from San Sebastián. It was near the end of a 10-week backpacking trip (on $5 a day!). The golden globe of the sun dropping into the sea, like a huge orange