Advertisement
Published: December 6th 2012
Three different bus stations without luck, it’s a four day long weekend after all. We took another chance and went to
Cubao Victory Liner as chance passengers unsure when we would actually be able to get on a bus.
Who would have thought we’d end up on a comfortable deluxe bus with reclining chairs and a shorter five hours ride?! Now all we had to do was to get ourselves on a bus to Sagada. Supposedly this should be easy since we arrived in Baguio ‘early’.
After taking our breakfast, we went to the only bus line that have direct trips to Sagada just to be told that at 7:00 in the morning ALL their buses have already left!! But some luck maybe, a barker later announced that there's one more bus bound for Bontoc (a town 45 minutes away from Sagada) but will only sit 40 people -- and we were at the back of the line! Guess what? We made it to the 40 count! While waiting in the line we also got to meet cool people who share the same passion for travel - animated Ate Amy & her husband Kuya Gerald, and cousins Kuya Rey & Darwin
who have all been to Sagada regularly in the past years.
“When you want something, the entire universe conspires in helping you to achieve it”. Well, right now it seems to be working for us!
Winding road on its best! The road to Sagada didn’t keep us steady on our seats. I spent hours resisting the law of motion while alternately trying to rest my eyes and appreciating the beautiful view. A glimpse of the mountainous province and its pine-covered hills slightly covered in haze. The road goes through vertical cliffs that looked landslide prone to me, we were very lucky the rain on the weather forecast did not materialise. Nearing Sagada the long stretch of the Chico River caught my eye, perhaps we can do the white water rafting next time.
We arrived at the Bontoc – Sagada junction ready for the estimated two to three hours hike to Sagada but then a fellow passenger mentioned about a brother who’d be picking her up. She agreed to let us ride so we jumped at the opportunity.
...10 minutes later our Jeepney broke! We paid the agreed PHP35 nonetheless and again readied ourselves to walk, but
then again a Jeepney on its way back to Bontoc agreed to turn back and bring us to Sagada for PHP50. With PHP35 + PHP50, our final lap to Sagada was getting a little overpriced I thought.
We started going through dirt road which consequently ended up on paved roads of what seem to be a well-developed little town of Sagada. Modern looking homes sans street lights.
“Where’s the unpaved ground and grass huts I have pictured in my head?”, I clearly arrived a little too late for that, I thought disappointingly. I was expecting progress but I was somehow hoping for a raw mountain province feel.
Arriving at 03:00 in the afternoon we went straight to one of the well-known resto around, The Yoghurt House.
“Can we have pasta partnered with chicken instead” Kuya Rey asked.
“No you can’t...it’s not in the menu” the waiter said with a smirk and an impatient sigh.
“..But didn’t you allow that before?” Kuya Rey tried to explain.
“...no. no. We don’t! We don’t do that” ...was that sarcasm?!
...our orders came and as we started eating, I was ready to devour. Another waitress came with a plate.
“Guys, who ordered this?” we started asking around the table because we weren’t sure whose it was.
“I don’t know, it was ordered from this table so I’ll just leave it in this table”, the waitress said with a shrug.
We were trying to figure out if the people were just having a hard time speaking Tagalog, if perhaps they’re just unintentionally coming off as rude. But for sure they can make use of some Waiting Tables 101 course.
My roasted pork tasted...roasted, but to be fair the others liked their food. I didn’t quite understand the yoghurt too, to think it’s supposed to be their specialty but I like the Granola and Strawberry bits in it. The service was bad (to us at least) but they seem nice to the others i.e. foreigners. Where have all the good reviews gone? Overrated was the word popping inside my head, it was the first and the last time we went.
...and then our Guesthouse, some 15ish minutes uphill/downhill walk from the town centre. We were given two rooms connected through a single bathroom (that open both ways); small room with a small toilet without proper locks to
share. I was okay with the room, really, but the toilets I wasn’t quite comfortable – especially because Martin and I eventually had to use the common toilet (without the heater). Again, this was a Guesthouse with good reviews at Trip Advisor. Perhaps I’m bound for more disappointments for the rest of our stay, I told myself.
Later in the evening we were out into the cold to see how the people of Sagada (who are predominantly Protestant) celebrate undás or All Saints Day. We struggled through the dark unlighted paths to the town’s Anglican cemetery; the crowd was already starting to disperse when we arrived. By the graves are burning piles of wood, their glowing flame illuminating the place. Because of the sweeping wind, Igorots build bonfires instead of lighting candle sticks. These as well provide some warmth on a chilly night like this. Afterwards we met up with our new friends and had dinner at what would become our favourite restaurant in town, the Masferre Country Inn and Restaurant. We loved the food and the young staffs were much nicer and more accommodating to us. After dinner we continued our chat at the nearby Sagada Pine Cafe.
The menu for the night was beer...or beer. We loved the cafe, it was charmingly simple and intimate.
It was a fun night talking about random things and laughing out loud, we actually enjoyed ourselves so much we went way past the curfew hours!
The traditional Begnas Ritual the next day was something I was so looking forward to. We actually didn’t know about it but thanks to Darwin and Kuya Rey’s heads up we were able to see it.
Men in their traditional garments, colourful loincloth, indigenous accessories, and spear walked in a single line to the other side of the wide rice field. The women in their equally colourful attire of finely woven wrap-around skirt lined up next with their offerings of wine, bread, and rice. They then proceed to a particular spot where they took turns dancing - making skipping steps with their arms outstretched, chanting, and playing brass gongs.
The men and a few elders were seated inside a Dap-ay, an area circled with stones piled on top of the other with bonfire pit in the middle. A dog and a pig carcass were being readied, a sight PETA would surely loath.
Begnas Ritual
...inside the Dap-ayI tried to look closer to take a photo but one of the elders told me to back off; “You are not allowed inside...” I was told.
One of our spelunking guides told us that at the start of the ritual, only men are allowed inside the Dap-ay. As told by people around, this ritual is kind of a thanksgiving for the successful harvest and prayer for the success of the next planting season. Being able to witness this firsthand for the first time made me felt proud, it was pleasing to see the Igorots still practicing century old traditions. Our 'timing' in Sagada was certainly spot on.
And the next part was the Cave Connections spelunking trip which I thought was just going to be another simple caving thing. Only when we started going down the cave did we realize what we’ve gotten ourselves into. We went through small holes, slipped between tiny gaps, crawled up and down huge boulders, rappelled on slippery rocks, and crossed ice cold water. In some instances, just one single misstep and I can kiss my beautiful life goodbye. But our young guides Dell, Dex, and Lupe where patiently waiting and instructing
Food offering
Begnas Ritual us, such entertainers with their frankness and silly jokes. It was also very nice to see the other ‘senior’ guides helping the young trio whenever they catch up with us / we catch up with them. With the crowd and human traffic inside and our two lamps alternately dying off, it took us five hours to get out to a cold, pitch dark night.
Shops were already closed when we reached the town, I was starving. We went to Masferre Inn & Restaurant where Ate Amy and Kuya Gerald were staying and though the signage at the door already said ‘Closed’, we still tried and pleaded for whatever food they still had, anything...anything at all. This then resulted to a tasty chicken adobo, chips, and sandwiches which they kindly prepared beyond their working hours, definitely very much appreciated.
The next day ...
Conversations 'n Paranoia We quivered in the cold as we stand in the bus line at four in the morning, for sure it will feel too warm when we’re back in Manila. Through the bumpy road and sleepy eyes, the beautiful sunrise started to appear. The darkness break as the yellowish sunray touch the blanket of clouds
covering the mountains, it was stunning.
In conclusion I can’t say that the view was astounding nor the food was exemplary, but meeting interesting people, gaining new friends, witnessing old traditions, and getting out alive from the caves made this experience a little too hard to beat. The trip that started off-key and ended on a high note, I must say that the disappointments and the paranoia added to the spice too!
Trip Information For the complete list of guide rate check the
SAGGAS (SAGADA GENUINE GUIDES ASSOCIATION) website.
Transportation: • Victory Liner Cubao Deluxe Bus : 5 hrs travel time
• GL Lizardo Bus Line at Dangwa Bus Station : 6 hrs travel time
• Jeepney : 30-45 minutes travel time
Accommodation/Food: • Mapiya-aw Pension @ PHP350/person per night
• Sagada Igorot Inn @ PHP250/person per night
• Sagada Pine Cafe @ PHP50/beverage
• Bana’s Cafe & Resto : PHP150 pork sinigang good for two
• Lemon Pie House : PHP180 / whole pie
• Masferre Inn & Restaurant : PHP150 – PHP200 Meal
• Yoghurt House : PHP350 Lunch
• Navales Bakeshop : PHP19 freshly baked cinnamon bread
Advertisement
Tot: 0.201s; Tpl: 0.032s; cc: 15; qc: 30; dbt: 0.1056s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
Sophie and Dale
Sophie & Dale
Good memories...
Loved this Tinnie thanks for sharing. Sounds like you had a mixed time in Sagada.. the Youghurt House must have really changed as it was the place to be when we were there.. that was 3 years ago though! Reading about your caving was great too.. this was a real highlight for our trip and we found the guides there really great too. Photos of the ritual are also fabulous... I bet they were a bit cold doing that! :o)