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Published: September 19th 2012
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Sunday, 2
nd September
I have purchased a 2 night stay in Cumbria at a hotel called “Lovelady Shields Country House Hotel” on livingsocial.com. As a retiree, I have lots of time to cut-coupons and look for really great travel deals. And, as we have never been to Hadrian's Wall, this seemed to be the perfect opportunity to combine two nights away with a visit to one of the most desolate places in the UK.
On the trip North we stop by Bolton Castle in the Dales. Mary Queen of Scots imprisoned here for 2 years. A retinue of 50 servants and staff, doesn't seem like it would be a great hardship, but we all know the ending! The castle is in disrepair except for one tower that has Queens Bedroom and “the bed”....
Arrival at our hotel, and because the main hotel is full, we are shown to a spacious 3 bedroom cottage. The AA rated two rosette restaurant, has exceptional food and is certainly worth a visit. Other guests at the hotel include a nine man “hunting party” up from London to shoot grouse and peasants, or is that pheasants!
Monday, 3
rd September
Hadrians Wall,
originally, approximately 15 feet high stretches from WallsEnd on the East coast to the Mouth of the Sollway Firth, on the west coast, via the city of Carlisle. It's 73 miles long and built across the narrowest part of the country. Constructed in 122AD when Emperor Hadrian visited, it took about six years to complete. According to one of the National Trust employees, there were less problems with the blue faced Picts, but there was an occassional problem with the English. The fort at Housteads, housed about 800 soldiers, and as one would think, a village grew up outside the fort wall to service the soldiers. Brothels, food etc, the wall was abandoned after Hadrian's death around 138AD
Monday is a big day, we move onto Beamish, a living museum in the North East of England. Beamish is very much along the same lines as living Museums in the USA. Much of the restoration and interpretation is specific to the late Victorian and Edwardian periods, together with portions of countryside under the influence of the industrial revolution in 1825. On its 300 acres (120 ha) estate it utilizes a mixture of trans-located, original and replica buildings. A huge collection
of artifacts, working vehicles and equipment; as well as livestock and costumed interpreters. The interpreters are full of enthusiasm and willing to spend as long as you want, answering questions.
Tuesday, 4
th September
We leave early for Carlisle Castle which was originally built during the reign of William II, the son of William the Conqueror ,who invaded England in 1066. Another factoid, Mary Queen of Scots was also imprisoned for about 2 months after fleeing to England from Scotland. The castle has been in constant use across the centuries and most recently by UK armed services. An excellent military museum traces the Cumberland Regiment across 400 plus years of history. For military history buffs, there are cabinets full of medals plus a fistful of Victoria Crosses.
Another big day, we continue on into the Lake District and the Beatrix potter house just outside of Hawkshead( I have many fond memories of evenings in the pub in Hawkshead, when 19 years old, singing and drinking, alongside all of the other young people that frequent the Lake District in summer). There were many Peter Rabbits in the garden and orchard, and if this were France, would be on the
menu. With the proceeds from the books and a legacy from an aunt, Beatrix bought Hill Top Farm and purchased additional farms over the next 30 years to preserve the unique hill country landscape. On her death she passed the farm over to the National Trust with a detailed set of instructions how her house was to be shown to visitors. Her books continue to create royalties for the original publishing company that she bequeathed her publishing rights too.
Bye, bye, Beatrice, bye, bye Lake District, and back to Horsforth.
Wednesday, 5
th September
Visit my Mom, who is feeling a little tired, and not well enough to be taken out. We stay for a while and then Caroline and I venture into Harrogate and have afternoon tea at Betty's. Then, as we walk around town we find an art gallery selling signed Bob Dylan lithographs, pricey, but quite nice. We don't buy one, but deecide to have a meal in the Blue Nile above the Blues Bar on Montpellier Parade. Great Egyptian food!!
Thursday, 6
th September
Pickup Mom and on her request we head to Scarborough, via Helmsley, where we stop and have a real
Up from London
Three members of the shooting party. On the first day, the nine shot 101 1/2 brace of Grouse. And we're only eligible to keep 2 each. The remainder go to the Estate. English lunch of pie and chips.. In the Middle Ages, Scarborough Fair, permitted by a royal charter, held a six-week trading festival attracting merchants from all over Europe. How do I know about Royal Charters, I'm reading Ken Follett's, World Without End, set in the Middle Ages. The fair continued to be held for 500 years, from the 13th century to the 18th century, and is commemorated in the song by Simon and Garfunkel.
Are you going to Scarborough Fair?—
parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme....Scarborough is a Victorian Spa Town, and has the architecture to boot. It's dominated by a ruined Scarborough Castle which stands on a bluff overlooking the town. The town and it's castle featured in the Civil War and changed hands seven times between Royalists and Parliamentarians during the 1640s.
Back home, we have dinner with Ann, Dave, Kimberly and Jim (Kim's boyfriend) at the Indian in the Park. It brings home our multi-cultured society when the Indian Gentleman speaks with a broad Yorkshire accent. The food and the owners are great people I hope that is still there when next I visit.
Friday, 7
th September
We catch the National
Caroline next to Hadrian's wall
The wall has large sections missing as it crosses England. Express bus to Milton Keynes Coachway and are picked up by my old friend, Ian Binks. A fantastic evening with Ian, a meal, wine and good conversation and then it's bed.....
France, here we come!
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Heather Stone
non-member comment
I'm glad the sun shone for you in Helmsley. You're writing style is very easy to read and wonderfully informative .. I'm enjoying it, thanks!