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Published: August 6th 2012
Just imagine...
...distant snow capped mountains in that white space. Things are so clouded over, you can't see them but I could vaguely seen tme.Slept in just a little bit this morning and then made bacon and eggs. I opened my door to go out on the deck and there lay the most beautiful Malamute I have seen just laying there ever so relaxed. We had a Malamute years ago and had always been one of our favorites. So I thought it was maybe some carma that this particular dog was laying right on my deck right outside the door. I gave her some attention and then grew suspicious that the real reason she was there was because I had just fried bacon and the windows were open. I try to dismiss that theory in favor of the good carma theory but even I know it's likely the true reason she is there. I get a hold of the owner to see if I can feed her and given that permission, I prep a plate for her (I really truly had made too much anyway). She finished hers quicker than I did mine of course. She was very dainty though so I believe she actually tasted it. She licked every spot, had some water, and then gave me one of those 'thanks much' looks and
she was off. Previous theory confirmed - eat and run. I laughed out loud when I heard the folks in the next cabin greet her and wonder aloud what they had that they could give her for a treat. I wanted to tell them she already had a whole breakfast by me but alas, Sable (actually a Malamute-Husky mix) obviously knows what to do at each cabin!
First thing following breakfast is dropping off my flat tire for repair. I head to the air strip outside of McCarthy to find John Adams (not Grizzly Adams). Turns out the St. Elias Alpine Guides had let him know I'd be coming last night so he was surprised I was first coming this morning. He was a nice man. I could tell he was relieved that I wasn't in a huge rush. I agreed I'd stop back after being in McCarthy and Kennicott for the day. He would try to get it done in between the cabin work he needed to do for his customers and any emergencies. That taken care of, I head to the footbridge to park. The Visitor Center has free parking as compared to parking right at the
bridge for $5.00/day. It's about a quarter mile difference. I am told walking it alone is fine - maybe make a bit of noise to be sure. So I do. In spite of there not being much people activity, there are private places along the way so if help would be needed, I trust it would be there.
I walk across the bridge and wait for the shuttle to go to Kennicott, about 6 miles away. I meet a few other travelers and gain some tips about the area and Valdez (pronounced Valdeez) where I will head next. Once on the shuttle, we stop in McCarthy to pick up other folks. I laugh on the way to Kennicott because of the variety of people riding the shuttle - hikers, glacier walk or ice climbing folks, and then others like me just checking things out. It is quite interesting sitting there listening to all the different stories. I'm noticing bikes are common in spite of the terrain. The only auto vehicles allowed are locals who pay $300 a year for the privelege and have a separate, secured bridge to access. I'm glad for the shuttle service.
St. Elias Alpine
Guides (SEAG) is my first stop to check out their activity list. None of the guys who changed my flat tire are around. The River Raft trip here is one I wanted to do because it actually covers three different rivers and then you are picked up at the end by plane and get a flight-see over the glacier as part of the return. They inform me it doesn't run every day. In fact, the next one is Wednesday - the day I am supposed to leave McCarthy. We review some other possibilities including guided hike up to one of the mines. The lowest level is a 4.5 mile hike to Bonanza Mine and it gains an elevation of 3,800 feet on the way up. They estimate 3-5 hrs up and 2-3 hours down depending on your ability. There is also a Glacier hike with two mile walk in just to get to the glacier. One of the guides tells me how great ice climbing is. That's the second time I'm told to try it and I'm still not ready to do so. I decide not to decide and instead settle right now for a walking tour of historical Kennicott.
For the next two hours I walk with a guided town tour group through the various components of Kennicott, listening to a ton of history. I only wish I had a notebook to jot down all of what we were told. It was great and Russ our guide was both knowledge and patient with all the questions. Here are some of the things we learned and the pictures show or tell more:
• Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is our nation's largest national park measuring 13.2 million acres, established in 1980. It is larger than the states of Vermont, New Hampshire, and Rhode Island combined. It is the equivalent of six Yellowstones.
• It has the largest glaciers in North America. In fact over 25%, or approximately 5,000 sq miles of the park is covered with ice. The Malaspina Glacier (1,500 sq miles) is so large that it can only be seen entirely from the air.
• Homesteading for the majority of US ended in 1976 but in Alaska, you could still own land via homesteading as late as 1986. The Homesteading Act no longer exists now even for Alaska.
• Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve encompasses the nation's
largest protected active glacial complex. It encompasses vast areas of scenic high mountain terrain from sea level to 18,000 feet and includes nine of the sixteen highest peaks in North America.
• The Wrangell mountains are volcanic in origin but only Mount Wrangell remains active - last reported erupting in 1900.
• On April 8, 1911, the first ore train hauled $250,000 of 70% copper ore. In 1916, the peak year for production, the mines produced copper ore valued at $32.4 million
There was a ton of other historical information provided during the tour. It is more information than anyone could absorb and retain. Some of the pictures show some other facts. Kennicott became a ghost town when the mine closed in 1938. There is a huge restoration effort in process even today. There is so much history to be preserved. I hope the restoration continues. I find out later that Andy, the owner of the Currant Ridge Cabins I'm staying at is one of the folks involved with the restoration efforts.
After the town tour, I head up a steep path to get to the water falls we could hear when we were by the Mill and that
were used for the transport of copper ore from the mines down to the Mill. Quite an impressive process for the years this was happening. I find the falls at the end of a right turn from the trail I am following. Water crashes down from above and then proceeds down the cliff to the Mill. I venture up a ways further and find a mellow creek section where there is a rock with my name on it. I sit there contemplating whatever comes to mind for quite awhile. Just one of those peaceful places it's hard to leave.
Heading back I miss a turn and end up at the top of the Mill. Stunning view and can only imagine the views one would get hiking up to one of the mines. Not sure I'm up for that level of hike yet. I keep believing I can still build stamina up in these muscles. Only time will tell and I'm not at all sure a strenuous nine mile hike would be the way to find out...lol. Will have to think on it. I head back down the trail realizing I probably went a bit too far especially since nobody
The Footbridge
At least it's not quite as intimidating as the one I had to drive over! else seems to be on the trail. Thankfully I don't meet any bears along it either! Guess it's what happens when you get lost in thought. At least no worries of it getting dark anytime soon.
I catch the shuttle going back to the footbridge but then decide to stop in McCarthy to check it out before returning. McCarthy has its own history but virtually came into existence as a result of the mine work being done in Kennicott. I will tackle the McCarthy museum tomorrow. Meanwhile, time to head back to the footbridge as there's still a quarter mile walk to get to my car at the Visitor Center. And oh yeah - still have to pick up my hopefully repaired tire.
John has my tire finished and at my request, he also puts the spare back under the car. We settle up and I head back down the road to my cabin. I make something for dinner and pretty soon thereafter head to bed. Another great Alaskan day in spite of the somewhat dreary overcast weather!
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Vickie Hart
non-member comment
So Beautiful!
What a perfect reflection spot.