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Published: July 17th 2006
Standing with feet firm on Chilean soil, I looked back over the border and took a minute to collect my thoughts. The last four days spent in Bolivia had been the most scenic thus far in my travels, and that is saying a lot. Each minute and every turn of my head brought beautiful landscapes that I tried so hard to capture with my camera. I know they say that a picture is worth a thousand words, but there is nothing that can explain the feeling of being there in person.
The best part of beauty is that which no picture can express.
Those words are so very true. I stood there time and time again looking out over amazing panoramics, and wished so much that I could share the moment with my friends back home. Now before I get too far ahead of myself, let me rewind a bit and give you a brief run down of that which inspired me so.
The last I left you, I was awaiting the recovery of my inflamed, bacteria-festered stomach in La Paz, Bolivia. Well, according to the doc, it is going to be nearly two weeks until my innards are normal again - oh joy!. That tends to pose a pickle for those long
bus rides with the bathroom I would rather not frequent. Also, there is the issue of unclean clothing; since there wasn't a laundry around that could have my stuff finished in time. I guess I failed to mention that I haven't changed my clothing in the last two weeks. Why you ask? Well, let's see; maybe it's cause I am wearing everything warm I own due to the sub-arctic temperatures this time of year. I have simply been switching layers each day; I'm now on m fifth cycle. Purchasing more clothing has also been unsuccessful, since nowhere I've been in Bolivia has sizes that fit me or meet my fashion sense (just kidding). Now, since I have yet to find a place that has heat; nights have been a tad bit on the hypothermic side. My trusty +55F sleeping bag just isn't doing the trick in the below freezing temps that the night brings. Alright, alright I'm exaggerating (a little bit) it's not as bad as I'm putting on; I was just having fun whining. But, I really do dread those long bus rides; since my stomach is showing no signs of getting better.
Fingers crossed and cheeks tight,
I made the first leg (9 hr. night bus) of my trip south to Potosí unscaved; although I did make a quick dash for the baño upon arrival. On the bus ride there, I met three young Brits (Rob, Alex, and Elly) who were headed in the same direction and had a similar itinerary to mine. In order to get themselves back on schedule, they were planning on visiting the silver mines of Potosi and then catch another night bus the same day to Uyuni. Well since I had lost five days in La Paz, I asked if I could join in on the action. Being the nice people that they were, they said sure - and the race was on. We made our way across Potosí to one of the more popular travel agencies (Koala) and signed up for that day's silver mine tour, which left in two hours. Now, I must take a second to mention that at one time in history, Potosí (the highest city in the world - 4070m) was Latin America's largest and wealthiest city. The town was blessed with large amounts of silver deposited in the hill (Cerro Rico) overlooking the community. This was
the mine we paid to see, and soon we did. Decked out in miner gear head to toe, we first visited the miner's market where we picked up some gifts for the workers; such as cola, coca leaves, and dynamite (sold in every shop -$2). Next, we headed over to the refinery to see where the minerals (silver, tin, lead, zinc) were separated and prepared for export. Soon after, we all rode up to Cerro Rico and over to the mouth of the silver mine. Strapping on our head lamps, we made our way into the mine and spent the next three hours walking, scrambling, and crawling through the dusty, narrow shafts. We watched as locals (14yrs. old - 50) labored through their normal week (8hrs-6 days). The conditions of the mine were extremely poor; with temps ranging from below freezing to 110 degrees Fahrenheit. The air was full of harmful dust that literally hurt your lungs on each breath. The miners normally died of silicosis pneumonia by the age of forty-five. They knew it, excepted it, and carried on working to support their families. It was quite a shocking experience, and also an explosive one. Exiting the mine shafts,
we took four dynamite packages (nitroglycerine, ammonium nitrate, and a 3 minute fuse) and prepared them for detonation. After I had assembled my bomb, one of the guides came by and lit the fuse and walked off with out telling me what to do with it. So, I just walked around clueless for the next minute or so getting pictures and trying to pass off my bomb (which no one would take from me). Finally, one of the leaders came by and took my explosive, ran off into the nearby field (along with three other guides), and planted the bomb. Suddenly, after the men had cleared to a safe distance, four large explosions detonated simultaneously; shaking and deafening everyone around. It was Awesome!!! I would like to see a tour company in the states do that! After that eye opening day in the mines, we returned to the tour company to book passage on that night's bus to Uyuni and signed up for a three day tour of the salt flats. This jeep tour of the Salar de Uyuni was on the top of my list (along side Machu Picchu) of the top things to do in South America -
and I couldn't wait!
Crammed into the small Uyuni-bound bus with people lined up the aisle, we rattled our way down a rocky dirt road and off into the icy cold night. Stopping only once during the six hour trip, I entered the roadside store to hear two of the most upsetting words for a man in my condition; "No Baño". I soon found myself tangled in some prickly bush out in the cold, pitch-black of the desert - good times! Arriving late night in Uyuni, we found a cheap hostel to crash at and rested up for our 11am departure into the desert wilderness. Waking up to a single digit temperature, we willed ourselves out of bed and headed over to the travel agency (Colque expeditions). There we were introduced to three other travelers (Brent-California, Alexandre and Tama- Brasilia) who would be accompanying us on our off-road adventure. The total number of vehicles (all Toyota Landcrusiers) and persons making up the Colque excursion group were 5 cruisers; each with 8 passengers (40 total). Riding off full force into the desert, the caravan made it's first pit stop at the nearby train graveyard. You wouldn't believe how cool this
place was. There were old rusty steam engines strung over the dry wasteland. We spent the next thirty minutes climbing all throughout the rail cars; having a good ole time. Next, we headed out into the
Salar de Uyuni (3653m), the largest salt flat in the world. Formed from a dried up prehistoric salt lake (Lago Minchín) that covered most of southwest Bolivia (12,000sq km). We spent the entire first day driving across the snow-like field of salt. Stopping halfway for lunch at Isla de los Pescadores, we found ourselves marooned on an island where giant cactus covered the surface. After hiking a bit and finishing off a llama (delicious) and some side dishes, we continued on across the flats; reaching our lodging before night fall. That night we celebrated Rob's 23rd birthday to a beautiful sunset, game of cards, and a chicken dinner. The following morning, the terrain changed from miles of salt to endless desert. At times, we were four-wheeling up steep, rocky hillsides and on other occasions we were toasting across dusty, dirt plains. To avoid riding in each others trail of dust, the vehicles were staggered across the treeless desert. Sometimes all were at an even race (and
we were literally racing), and other times cruising all alone with not a soul in sight. The second day finished at a lake of red waters (Laguna Colorado), were pink flamingos (rare James flamingo) stood in the shallows and a fridged breeze blew through the valley. As the sun went down, so did the temperature. The night and early morning temp dropped below zero and ensured that every piece of possible clothing was worn. Rising at 4:30am, we rode up to a 4950m high geyser basin that was out of this world. Dozens of geysers exploded steam from the earth and boiling mud pots were at every turn. Unlike, say Yellowstone National Park, there were no fences, ropes, park officials, nothing! We were the only ones there and were free to roam where we pleased; jumping in and out of geysers at will. Then to warm things up at bit, the group headed down to the natural hot springs of Thermes de Polques. Of course being the wuss that I am in the cold, I was unable to talk myself into getting in; because all I could think about was the getting out. Continuing on, we passed by volcanoes and
boulder fields; finally ending our excursions at Laguna Verde. At this point in the tour the people heading back to Uyuni went with the caravan, and those venturing on into Chile caught a separate shuttle. Crossing the border was like jumping through hoops, but after an hour and a half it was finally accomplished. Everyone said there farewells and headed off in separate directions to start a whole new adventure; and thus goes the life of a traveler.
Well, I made it to Chile and Wow; what an amazing four days. I can't even begin to explain the surreal landscape we carved our way through, but hopefully the numerous pictures I attached can give you an idea. Each day the sights and surroundings were so very different from one other making ever turn of a corner a new experience. One thing I have found over and over again (at least for me) is that when you are staring out at beautiful landscapes such as these, you can not help to think about its creator. God's eternal power and creativity are revealed in the amazing detail, design, and variations of all of the beauty around us; like a artist that
has created a beautiful masterpiece for all to enjoy. God's "fingerprints" are on everything; you just have to open our eyes to realize it. I have come to understand that you can see God in every person, place, and thing. If you simply look at the world with these eyes, it gives you a whole new perspective on life. This brings to memory a favorite quote of mine by C.S. Lewis;
I believe in Christianity as I believe that the sun has risen. Not only because I see it, but because I see everything by it.
It is time to say goodbye again and travel further south to Santiago, Chile. I am not quite sure what I will do for my 30th Birthday, because I have already done the big stuff I had planned. I wish I was able to spend this time with you back home, but my time to return is not quite yet. Although, I will be thinking of you all which brings a smile to my face. My travel path for my final days abroad is still not known for certain. I need to make a few last decisions before it is all set in stone. I will keep you all posted; because somebody had better pick me up at the airport. Miss you much and I'll write you soon!
Later!!!
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Teddy
non-member comment
una maravilla!!!
Las fotos son buenisimas. Sigue enviandolas. Espero que te cuides y te disfrutes en tu nuevas tierras. PAZ!