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Published: July 12th 2006
Friday June 30th
I woke up at the crack of dawn, took a shower and packed my stuff. It is becoming something of a routine for me to pack my stuff and I've become way more efficient now, I can pack it all in 2 minutes. I went upstairs to eat breakfast before my bus at 7AM. I sat at a table alone reading my book. There was only another person in the cafe, a 50-something man that I hadn't seen before. I ordered banana pancakes and read while waiting for my order.
At some point the man initiated the conversation and I moved over to his table. We talked while I ate my banana pancake. He is a Kiwi who has just spent 3 years working in London and is now going back to New Zealand with his friend. However he is not going directly but he is taking 6 months, travelling various countries on the way.
He told me that when they were in Manila, they met 2 very friendly filipinos who were, as he said, very well spoken, educated and funny. They invited them to their place and they agreed. The filipino gave them beers (his friend had 2 but he had only one) and they kept talking. At some point he realized that the drink had been poisoned somehow because he was feeling very sleepy and sick and his friend was even worse. Then the filipinos tried to snatch the money belt out of his friend but he managed to push them away and take his friend out in the street where they hailed a taxi, they got away with nothing lost.
This scam was mentioned in the guidebook but it is scarier when you actually hear it from someone. I promise I'll be careful mom! That story made me lose track of time, I finished my banana pancakes at 3 to 7, said goodbye and rushed outside to run to my bus. I should've learned by now that schedule aren't as important in the philippines as in Canada because the bus left 20 minutes late...
The ticket guy gave me my ticket and as I only had a 500P note I gave it to him and he said he'd give me the change later. I had the seat to myself at first but we picked up a woman 20 minutes away from the town and she sat next to me, which is annoying because with my backpack between my leg I have very little leg space. The bus trip was really annoying for me as for some reason I had allergies that day so I had a runny nose and I had very little tissue... The route leaves the mountains and goes on the plain in the south and then goes westward until it gets to the level of Baguio and then goes back in the mountains. Since the bus is not air conditioned that means that you spend all your time in the very sweaty heat of sea-level philippines and not the refreshing weather of the mountains. It wasn't all that bad as my allergies stopped after a few hours and the road was paved all the way so it was way easier than the dirt road I had gotten used to. At some point I asked the ticket guy for my change and I think he was a little bit insulted. He gave it all to me and I felt a bit bad to have asked for it as I'm fairly sure he would have given it to me at some point since he was obviously waiting for change from the passangers who leave before Baguio.
The bus took longer than I had thought and we arrived into Baguio at 4PM (9 hours ride). I walked to the same place that I stayed last time and checked in. I walked around town a little bit, went to Burnham Park and Camp John Hay (a place outside town that used to be used by the US military). I came back downtown and ate at Jolibee, the Philippines' version of Ronald's place. They have spaghetti in burger joints (even in McDo) in the Philippines and for 49P (less than 1 dollar) you can get a spaghetti/coke combo so that's what I got.
I went to an Internet cafe and worked on my Sagada blog. I uploaded the pictures (which for some reason never showed up on the website, I had to delete them all later and reupload them again). I went to bed relatively early, watched a bit of filipino drama (I couldn't understand what they were saying but I'm fairly sure the husband cheated on the wife and she was going back to live at her mom's to show him she was mad. How original) and fell asleep.
Saturday July 1st
The plan for the day was to go to Kabayan to visit the famous mummies there. I woke up around 7AM, took a shower (with water not hot but warm enough so that it's not uncomfortable) packed and walked to the bus station with the buses to Kabayan. By the time I got there it was 5 to 8 and there was a bus going to Kabayan but it left at 10AM. I was really annoyed by that as the bus ride takes 7 hours so that meant I'd get to Kabayan at 17:00. I got on the bus and waited.
I started reading my guidebook again (you do that all the time when you travel, you read the section several time but you forget half of it so you reread it) and realized that the museum was closed on Sunday (you sorta lose count of the days when travelling so I hadn't realized I'd be arriving on a Sunday) which means that I can't get the key to the Timbac Cave (a cave with 30 or so mummies) since you need to ask the museum director for it so that meant I'd have to wait for Monday to do anything interesting.
I was pissed off at all this waiting and to be honest I was a bit tired of small towns with nothing to do past 19:00. I debated in my head for about an hour but finally decided I was getting out of the mountains. I was mad to have lost a day in the transport to Baguio but I knew going to Kabayan meant I'd be in the mountains for at least 3-4 more days if I wanted to see anything interesting in Kabayan and I really didn't feel like doing that
To everyone's amusement, I left the bus after waiting for an hour and headed for the Victory Liner bus station on the other side of town. I had to ask directions a few time as I was going by memory and I didn't end up at first exactly where I wanted (but close enough). Something important when asking directions in Asia is that you shouldn't take too seriously the directions people tell you. They will never tell you they don't know where it is, they will just point in a random direction to "save face". My trick to get around that is that if I see that the person is hesitating I ask "Is it this way
" and point somewhere and if he says yes I assume that he has no idea and he's just trying to save face. A friendly jeepney driver finally told me where it was and I just walked for 1 minute in that direction and found the brand new ultremodern Victory Liner terminal which seems a bit bizarre in Baguio.
Bizarre or not it works well. I bought a ticket, saw the cleanest comfort room I've seen in the Philippines (comfort room is toilet in here), went downstairs to bus departure, bought a donut for breakfast and hopped on the bus which left 5 minutes after I got on, perfectly on schedule.
The bus ride was eventless. There was music playing and I spent pretty much all the trip reading my book. I left at the last stop in Pasay at around 4:30. I got out of the station and was quickly surrounded by a few taxi drivers very eager to take me. I said okay to one and we crossed the street to where they were parked. I told him I wanted him to use the meter but he wanted a fixed price. His friend told him something very softly in his ear that I couldn't hear and suddendly he told me to enter his friend's taxi. I'm sure this meant that his friend didn't have gas in his taxi so he wanted a dumb westerner to scam like the first taxi driver did to me when I first arrived in Manila (by stopping at a gas station 2 minutes after leaving and asking for most of the money we had agreed for gas). They didn't want to use the meter so I told them I wanted an honest driver and left. I crossed the street again and some guy came to help me find a taxi on the street as I was not having too much success attracting any. Finally one stopped and I tipped the guy lightly and got on. New lesson, when people help you on the street they often expect a tip, so next time just keep on hailing, the taxis will eventually stop...
The taxi driver used his meter and we got to Pension Natividad very fast. I gave him a fairly generous tip and entered the Pension. It is funny how much I disliked Manila when I left it last time but I remembered the Pension as an Oasis so I was happy to be back. In fact I was looking forward to it, meating Gabi (the friendly owner) and the other travellers or volunteers who sit in the table outside in the shade.
I checked in but this time I took a bed far away from the street as I knew the traffic can get annoying in the morning. I took my daypack and sat on a table outside, reading my book. Shortly, a friendly american man named Stanley started speaking to me. He was reading "Flag of Our Fathers" (a book about the Iwo Jima battle in WW2), an old Peace Corps worker coming back in the Philippines to meet friends and family (the family that he stayed at for 2 years while he was volunteering).
He was very interesting and we talked for a while. We were joined by a friend of him who work as a teacher in Guam and his filipina wife (whose names I can't remember). We had some interesting conversation on WW2, the situation in Guam and the Philippines but the couple left early to sleep as they had to wake up at 3AM to get on their flight back to North Dakota so we said goodbye. Stanley invited me to come with his filipino friend David to have a drink later tonight at around 22:00 which I agreed but said I'd also like to watch the England-Portugal game.
There was a group of Korean volunteers next to us who had a mountain of fruits on their table, they had been shopping at the supermarket for "tropical" or "exotic" fruit. A cute korean girl came to our table and gave us a plate with a few of every fruits. We thanked her and ate them all. The mangos were particularly delicious. The fruits made me realized I was hungry so I suggested that we go eat somewhere. He liked the idea and told me he'd give me a guided tour of Manila at the same time. He asked what I'd like to eat so I said Thai, I've had craving for Pad Thai ever since I left Montreal.
We went to Robinson's place, the mall of the area and the place where everything happens according to Stan. It was dark by then and I was a little uneasy about walking in Manila at darkness but he said there was no problem. He had been coming at the Pension for 6 years, coming at least once a year and had walked all the back alleys or main street of the area, sometime at very late hours, so he was not uneasy at all about walking in the streets. On the way to the mall (which is about 5 minutes from the Pension) we saw street kids, not older than 8 or 9 years old, begging on the street. They had small plastic bag which Stanley told me had glue in them. The kids sniffed it because it removed the hunger feeling (after he said that, one of the kid took a sniff in the bag). That was quite a shock to me. Saying "no" to poor kids in Batad, where the rice fields are full and the city full of tourists is one thing, but saying "no" to these desperate kids is much more difficult. They were swarming the car of an elderly white man and his wife and they took no notice of me so I was not confronted with the dilema.
Shortly after we saw the kids, we arrived in the polished and clean world of the mall. Filippinos, rich or poor, love malls even though the majority of them can't afford to buy anything in them. In the weekend everyone go in the mall to do shopping or just hang around. Several filipinos ask me if I went to the brand new "Mall of Asia", the biggest in Asia and third biggest in the world. When I tell them "no" and that I don't plan on going, they react like if I had told them I was planning to visit Egypt but wasn't planning to see the pyramids: they simply cannot comprehend that I wouldn't want to go. In any case the mall is practical, you can buy anything there and that one in particular has a HSBC bank where I can withdraw my money without any charge.
We entered the Thai restaurant and a cute and friendly waitress named Joyce served us. We chitchatted a little bit and Stan told her that she had the same name as her mother (which, of course, isn't true) which she thought was extremely funny. When I said I'd take water as drink she dared me to take beer, I replied that I'd take one if she drank with us since there weren't that many customers anyway. She unfortunately refused but I got the beer (she's a professional and persuasive girl).
The food was great and Joyce passed by every few minutes to talk. She was very entertaining and I'd promised that I'd pass by again before I left the Philippines. Stan paid the bill and even though I said I'd wanted to share at first, I must admit I didn't fight much for my right to pay my part and fairly quickly agreed. In the Philippines when people go out together, it's understood that the person with the highest salary will pay. Stan lived here for 2 years so I guess he's filipino enough to follow that tradition.
Instead of going straight back to the pension to wait for a txt of David, we walked a little bit around Manila toward the Bay. While walking he told me how things improved in Manila and that the city is now much more livable than it was 6 years ago: air has cleaned up, prostituion has declined (although still very present and visible) and the new mayor does try to brighten things up with new project. We quickly reached one of those new project: Baywalk. It is a 2 km strip along the Bay filled with cafe and live bands every night. It is a great place to walk, watch music or sit down sipping on a daiquiri watching the ocean or the crowds of people. We walked there for a while and then decided to walk back to the hostel. By the time we got there Stan got a text from David that made him think he wouldn't be able to come with us for a while (he was working and his boss told him he'd get off early but he lied). At my suggestion, we decided to try to find a place that played World Cup games so we could watch England-Portugal game. Since filipino don't like soccer/football it is easier said than done. We asked at the reception and Jocelyn, one of the friendly pension staff, mentioned a place on the street of the pension that has a big cow on the sidewalk and that probably play the games.
So we went on the street looking for a big cow. We walked for about 5 minutes north but before we saw the cow we saw a place with a huge sign saying "Playing World Cup Games, Tonight England vs Portugal" so we went in the bar. To my shock, the place was filled with beautiful filipinas in very tight white shirt/black pants uniform and balding western men. There was a very drunken man that was receiving a cake for his birthday and was being sung by the ladies "Happy Birthday". The ratio of women to men was 3 to 1 and we were swarmed by the girls who welcomed us . Loud music and UV lights completed the atmosphere. We walked around for 2 minutes and decided that this wouldn't be a great spot to watch the game quietly. On the way out we saw the name of the place: "Amazona"...
Stan informed me that probably since only westerners watched the World Cup here, the only bars that would play the games would be the ones that cater to westerners which means that they'd probably all be like this, or similar. We agreed to continue walking toward the cow try to find a bar where we wouldn't be raped. A minute later, we stumbled upon a quiet looking bar with a German name that claimed to play the World Cup games. We entered and the place indeed looked quiet. There was the usual suspects there (drunken balding Western men accompagnied with cute girls that tried their best to look like they were having a great time) but it was low-key place and had plenty of TVs.
We sat at the bar, ordered San Miguel and waited for the game to start. We were approached by a few girls but most took the hint when I said I wasn't interested. One of them however didn't take the hint. I said I wasn't interested but she said "oh I'm just standing around" and she just stood there, trying reallly hard to keep a conversation going when I was trying just as hard to drive her away by not giving any hints of being itnerested. I don't mind telling people I'm not interested in whatever they offer me, but I didn't have the heart to tell that girl to go play in the traffic a second time so I just answered her questions as shortly as possible and then looked intensely at the TV. She told me she had a son and a daughter and lived in Quezon City. I felt bad for the girl but there's not much I can do except giving her some horizontal pity but that is of course not gonna happen.
At some point Stan saved me and told her that he wanted to talk with his friend for a moment, she said sure and said she'd be back. He told me the trick was to tell them you're a gay. We both laughed at the situation and kept on talking (our conversation sort of stopped with the prostitute standing between us). When I mentioned that she told me of her family he said that even though she might have said it as a way to guilt trip me into buying some service, it was probably true. All the girls in the bar that were dressed very nicely would be washing the clothes of the whole family by hand for hours in the following morning in squatter's hut with no electricity or in an extremely crowded old concrete apartment.
It is easy to judge the girls who do that job as immoral or not natural but they're just doing what they can to survive or improve their life, in conditions that we cannot even imagine here in the West. Judging them, or telling them to stop doing this is not gonna change anything but giving them the tools to imrpove their lifes without resorting to selling their bodies might. That, of course, would require competent, uncorrupt governments and good economic growth. Unfortunately these often go hand in hand and when the first 2 are absent, it is hard to achieve the latter.
While waiting for the game to start Stan saw a man give a 500P (10$) bill to a girl and the 2 left quickly after. Whenever someone entered, all the girls would turn and look. If the person was a man they would flock to him, their number being directly proportional to the look of the person, the richer he looked the more girls he got. Then he would usually sit down at a bar or a table with usually a girl on both sides, he would order alcohol for him and the girls and they'd talk. The girls would of course laugh at every joke and be very interested in what the guy was saying. Sometimes a man and a/several girl(s) would leave together to some unknown place. That seems to be how things are done over here. One of the girl who seemed to be "getting along" very well with a Western man while they were both playing pool couldn't have been much older than 13.
At this point the game started and the bar pretty much died down, everyone was still there but all the guys were starring at the TV and no one was paying the girls any attention. Stan commented that it is nice to know that all men, however depraved, have higher preoccupation that takes precedence over everything. Given the lack of attention, the girls were forced to watch and by the cheering we could tell that there were way more english men than portugese in the place as the girls only cheered for the english (or it might be that they all loved Beckham). The game was one of the most boring thing I've ever watched but we stayed hoping that something would happen, at some point. Around half time two portugese men came in and sat behind us and quickly got the attention of a girl. I also noticed that the girl that stuck after I told her to go away had found a man that could have been her grandfather that seemed to appreciate the attention and when I last saw them they were holding hands. Isn't love grand?
Toward the end of the game, Stan mentioned that he was way too tired and wanted to go to sleep. David had texted at some point to say that he wouldn't be able to come tonight so he was a bit disapointed and I must say I was tired also as the game was so boring. Before leaving we paid the bill (I paid my part this time) and just before leaving Stan told the barmaid: "Take care of my friend". He meant it as like "make sure he doesn't get hurt" or something but needless to say she didn't analyze it this way. She suddenly started yelling "May" several times, pointed to a girl that seemed very busy with one of the portugese man and told her to get over here and get very busy with me. Stan and I were laughing too much to explain to her that there was a big mistake and that she seemed to have misunderstood the spirit of his words. After a moment of hilarity we managed to get our point accross and she told May to go back on the portugese man. Stan now didn't want to leave me because he was scared I'd get attacked by overly aggressive girls. For the next 15 minutes we just watched the game and when at the end of regular time it was still 0-0 we said the hell with it and went back to the pension, not knowing the final score (we learned the day after that Portugal won, which probably made all the girls at the bar happy since sad men need comfort...). In any case this "Keep care of my friend" quote was probably one of the funniest moment I've had in this trip. I'm laughing out loud in the internet cafe right now just thinking about it.
Sunday July 2nd
I woke up early on Sunday and went out and found an internet cafe where I read some news and tried to look at the country's airlines website. I had decided I'd spend the rest of my trip in Palawan, a remote group of island on the far west of the Philippines that has a reputation of being the "Last Frontier". Getting there is tricky for a budget travellers as plane tickets can be expansive and the few companies that have ferries only have one boat a week. The next one leaving was on Wednesday at 6PM and it would take 36 hours to reach El Nido, my first destination in Palawan. To save time I was planning to buy a plane ticket and decided to spend the morning getting one. If that did not work I'd take the boat on Wednesday and do day trips from Manila in the meanwhile.
Most of the airlines have offices close to where I am so I figured it was easier to go ask them directly than try to figure out their byzantine websites but they were closed as it was too early. I went back to the hostel and got a fruit salad with yogurt for breakfast. It was a delicious breakfast and while eating it I finally finished reading my book: "A hundred Years of Solitude" by Gabriel Garcia Martinez.
I was told I'd either hate the book or worship the author by the time I was done and it is true that I don't think this book will leave anyone indifferent. I fell in the camp of "loved it" and thoroughly enjoyed the plot, characters and especially the way it was written with the confusing chronology and the beautiful style of writting of the author. I suggest you read this book if you're interested in literature but it is definately not an easy read as it can get very confusing sometimes (all the characters have very similar names and there are 6 generations in total). It definaetly increase my interest in South American literature. I'm out of books to read now so I'll try a cheap one as soon as possible. "The alchemist" is on my list as well as "Wild Swans".
After I finished my breakfast I took my shower and read my guidebook in the dorm for a bit. When I went back down in the lobby I saw Stan sitting at a table with his filipino friend, David. I joined them and we talked a little bit. David's boss told him he'd be able to leave at 8-9PM yesterday but he ended up leaving at 2AM. They were eating american breakfast, even though Stan had said the day before that he liked fruit salad with yogurt as it made him feel healthy! They were going shopping for the day and I said I really needed to take care of my plane ticket thing so I went my way to the airline office. To my despair I found out that if you don't buy ticket well in advance you have to pay extra money and I was not ready to pay 80$ for a one way one hour plane ride. I thus decided that I would take the boat on Wednesday and would see attractions around the capital in the meantime. When I walked back to the pension, I saw David and Stan walking. They were going to catch a jeepney to go to Divisiora, a market where you can find pretty much everything and where we'll be the only foreigners in sight. Although I'm not a big shopping fan this looked like fun and I had nothing really planned for the day so I joined in.
I hadn't taken jeepneys in Manila as it's fairly confusing as to where they're going but David and Stan knew which to take and where to stop so it was easy. We rode for about 10 minutes and stopped in the market somewhere close to Chinatown. As we left the jeepney I saw another thing that shocked me: trash collectors were throwing the trash in the river. It was not a person throwing a bottle in a river, they were throwing the whole damn truck in the river and the river was full of it. I can't understand why the city allows that. They take their trash somewhere for the most part in that country why can't they do it in that part of Manila? Needless to say the smell was apalling. We entered the market which was air conditioned, thank god. Before you enter a market or a supermarket security guard search your bag and feel your back so that you don't bring "deadly weapons" inside. I unfortunately didn't try my "I'm a Chechenian terrorist and I have a deadly bomb in my bag" joke on the security guard but maybe I'll give it a shot at the airport. It always lighten up the atmosphere.
The market was interesting. It's like a huge indoor market with alleys only big enough for 2 people to go through. They are selling fakes of everything: clothes, watches, toys, jewelry and any kind of DVD you can imagine. I quickly realized I was some kind of star in there, the girls would smile at me constantly. Several times during the day I was called "Handsome" by girls and when I'd stop in a store the salesgirl there would often blush and her friend in nearby stores would giggle. I talked with some of them and one even asked for my cell phone number. A few of them mentioned that I looked like Harry Potter which I thought was funny. Needless to say I would've prefer to be compared to someone past puberty but I guess it's better than Dumbledore.
Stan bought 3 shirts for the teens in his "family" in Guimaras. When you return home after a trip in the Philippines you are required to bring little gifts for the people, if not they'll be insulted so he was trying to find gifts for everyone. For my part I was trying to find a watch and I figured with David helping me with the prices I wouldn't get screwed. I asked at several places but finally ended up choosing a simple waterproof digital watch for 100P. This was the cheapest watch around and I didn't manage to bargain the price down, not even to 90P. Even the fact that Stan told them I was Harry Potter and should get star treatment didn't get me a price reduction but it sure made the girl smile.
After our difficult bargaining, we decided it was time to eat since it was like 13:30. We went to a type of Filipino vegetarian place. The way it works there is that you get a rice portion then you buy the rest commonly, a bit like in chinese restaurant. Stan paid again and I half-heartedly resisted but gave up pretty fast in my attempts to lighten my wallet. The food was delicious, the best filipino food I've had and I ate too much. The places claims to be all vegetarian but I swear some of the stuff I had was meat. In any case it was all good and we stayed quite a while to talk and at some point David left saying he had something to do. We joined him in the market later and kept on shopping as he still needed to find something for his little cousin. He didn't find anything and was pretty tired (as he stopped working at 3AM the night before) so we took a jeepney back to the pension.
Finding the right jeepney is pretty hard, not only you have to take one going to the destination you want, but you need one that goes to it on the path you want (some go on different streets). And once you're in it you really have to know where you are going because it is fairly hard to see outside (there are 2 bench facing each other parallel to the road and the windows are low so it's hard to look outside, especially when the jeepney is crammed. This is no problem since I was with David but taking the first jeepney alone in Manila must be quite an experience (the guidebook says you never really end up where you want on your first jeepney ride in Manila and Stan mentioned that on his first ride the driver stopped midway saying he was doing his siesta).
We got back to the pension and we went to Stan's room for the comfort of aircon for a while. David and Stan quickly decided that a siesta was a good idea but I didn't feel sleepy so I went in the lobby and read some of the local newspapers. At some point David left for somewhere (I didn't get what he was saying) and a bit later Stanley joined me with a supply of cookies which he offered me (needless to say I took some) and he read his book. I went to the bathroom and when I came back Stan had changed table to one outside and Dave had came back. He just came back from the market to buy shoe laces which he had forgotten to do earlier Stan was trying to know how to ensure that he wouldn't offend anyone by coming back home and asked David on filipino etiquette (such as how to present the gift, when to give them, how much bigger should the gift to the "man of the family be etc). It is extremely interesting that even though from the outside filipinos looks extremely americanized and are catholic, there is definately a culture behind the facade which is totally non-western and it is often hard for a westerner, even someone like Stan who has lived among the people for years, to totally understand it.
We decided to eat dinner and have a walk on Baywalk. We walked on the street of the pension (the one with the cow that we never ended up seeing) to a middle eastern place called Jerusalem. We all ordered chicken shawarma and took pickled vegetable for the group. Everything was delicious except the air which was overly filled with cigarette fumes (well, we sorta asked for it by going in a middle eastern place...).
We walked to Baywalk to find that almost all the live band from yesterday were replaced by new ones. It is incredible that they manage to find so many bands every day, and good quality too. This time we sat down at a table by the sea close to a band (but far enough from the speakers). I got a daiquiri, Stan a tequilla and David had a beer. During the conversation, I asked him what filipinos thought of those 60 years old western man and 20 years old filipina couple. He said it was a sacrifice for the girl but brought financial stability and meant her whole family would never be hungry again. Upward mobility is more important and the sacrifice people are ready to do to achieve it are greater when it means the difference between your family starving or having enough money to get a decent diet and place to live than when it means having a wider TV and a more fashionable car.
Stan had to wake up early the next morning for his flight to Iloilo city, close to Guimaras, and David was working the next day so we headed to the Pension. At the check-in we discussed with Jocelyn who thought the whole "Take care of my friend" thing was hilarious and we told her we never saw the cow on the sidewalk. I said goodbye with David and Stan and we exchanged emails and I really hope I'll keep in touch with both of them as the last 2 days had been a real highlight for me. I felt I really understood the Philippines a bit more and finally became fully comfortable in the country. Sometimes when you visit a place it is not the touristic sites that leave you with a deeper impression but the people you meet.
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Un commentaire digne de ton grand-frère!
Pas de photos des filles qui auraient pu s'occuper de toi? Lol, je blague biensur :). Ton blog va devenir populaire dans tout Montréal mec, il y a une de mes collègue de travail ici qui le lis et aussi une madame qui travaille avec Marie-Pierre! Non mais sérieusement c'est cool, quand tu vas relire tout ça après ton voyage tu va tripper! Mais pour l'instant tu sembles déjà tripper comme ça! Profite en! :) Ton grand frère préféré!