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It´s been some time since our last entry back in Burgos. We arrived in El Burgo Ranero at midday in hot sunshine. The weather has certainly taken a turn for the better, and we´re having to make sure that we get all our walking out of the way before lunch because it gets unbearably hot in the afternoons. Anyway I´ll give you the day to day happenings after we left Burgos. Before that, Happy 30th Birthday to Alice (niece) for May 3rd. Happy 1st Birthday to Johnnie (great-nephew) for May 7th and Happy Birthdays to Annie (sister) and to Howard (Madeleine´s brother-in-law) for May 13th!
Mon May 7th Burgos - Hornillos 27Kms
As we left Burgos the "Super Moon" was still shining brightly and we saw loads of storks nesting on the church towers. The walk out of Burgos was definitely preferable to the interminable walk in. We were soon out of the city and into pleasant countryside. We walked 10.5 kms before a very welcome breakfast at Tardajos. We then began the climb onto the first of the mesetas (plateaux). The landscape became far more scrubby and reminded me very much of the Ingleborough area of Yorkshire. We dropped down into Hornillos to a very quaint Albergue with ancient beds! It poured with rain all afternoon and we were very glad that we weren´t still walking!
Tues May 8th - Hornillos - Castro Jeriz 22 kms
Set off at 6.50 am in the pouring rain to climb the next Meseta and walked through lovely countryside. Unfortunately, the path deteriorated and became a sea of mud. I was very glad to be wearing boots instead of sandals! It reminded me of the Somme or Paschendaele and every step was a real effort. We had a very welcome breakfast at Hontanas. After breakfast it was mud, mud and more mud!! My left foot began to hurt a lot, I think it is a fallen arch not helped by the effort of walking through mud! Luckily, as we approached Castro Jeriz, the sun came out and we were able to photograph this spectacular town, which is dominated by its castle. It has Roman and Visigoth remains and was the scene of much fighting between the Christians and the Moors. The Albergue in which we stayed didn´t charge but only asked for donations. It had a very nice, calm atmosphere and even offered a breakfast in the morning! We met lots of interesting people here, including a couple from Dublin called Ollie and Tina, who had walked all the way from Le Puy in France last year. Our Welsh friend Pat, who´d thrown away her overtrousers back in Estella, decided she´d better buy some more. It will probably mean that we´ll have no more rain now!
Wednesday May 9th - Castrojeriz to Fromista, 25.5K
Early start after a small breakfast at the albergue- a short but very steep ascent up the meseta with the track drying out in a stiff breeze and the promise of strong sunshine. Beautiful views from the top back over the valley at the sunrise and the ubiquitous windmills! A lovely walk over the top into the valley of the Rio Pisuerga, stopping at the beautiful shrine of San Nicolas- now run as a small albergue by the Italian Society of St James- for a coffee and chocolate. The walk then took us, in steadily increasing heat, over the Canal de Pisuerga and into Boadilla for a welcome lunch in the shady garden of the local albergue. The last 6K was difficult because of the hot afternoon sun, even though most of it was by the Canal de Castillo. We reached Fromista by crossing over the head of an old 5 rise lock-very impressive! We stayed the night in the old railway building- only 4 of us in a dorm fit for 50- the quietest night yet!
Thursday May 10th - Fromista to Carrión de los Condes, 19.9K
An early start again, with breakfast 4K en route, in Población; after which we took an alternative and more shady riverside route to Villalcazar de la Sirga. Hot again and our riverside walk accompanied constantly by the croaking of frogs and toads as well as the usual birdsong. We arrived in Carrión at midday to the abbey of Santa Clara where Francis of Assisi stayed when he walked the Camino- an amazing feeling! I´m afraid we whiled away the afternoon drinking a bottle of white wine and sampling tapas, but the three of us agreed that it definitely is a sovereign remedy for sore feet! ( I should state at this point that we´re now travelling daily with Pat from Wales so we only need a Scot to complete the complement!)
Friday May 11th - Carrión to Calzadilla de la Cueza, 18K
We breakfasted at 6.15 in the convent and set off through the streets of Carrion as the dawn was rising. A long demoralising walk followed over a rising plain for 17.5K. There was little shade and no water fountains or cafés. Arriving in Calzadilla at 12.00, we made the decision to book a bedroom for 3 in the local Hostal rather than go 50 to a dorm in the local albergue. An en suite shower and sheets and towels was an unaccustomed luxury and, funnily enough, none of us slept as well!
Sat May 12th Caldadilla -Sahagun 23kms.
Decided that we must rise at 5.30 today in order to avoid the worst effects of the heat. We walked 9 kms to Terradillos de los Templarios and had a very welcome breakfast in the albergue there. It was much more pleasant walking today as there was quite a breeze which counteracted the searing heat of the sun, although it did get pretty hot after 11 am.
The land here is mainly arable with huge fields of wheat and barley. It´s strange not to see vines and olive groves as we were used to back in the Rioja region. It´s also strange not to see animals in fields. They´re all reared indoors in this part of the country and it makes me miss the pastoral English landscape. It got really hot later in the morning but at least we could now see our destination of Sahagun. We stayed at the convent of Hospaderia las Madres Benedictinas. We had yet more luxury as we got a room for 2 and Pat got a single. It only cost us 15 Eur each, splendid value for ensuite and sheets! The ensuite actually had a bath in it so we took full advantage of a long soak! Unfortunately, one of the advantages/disadvantages was that all the dead skin came off my old blisters and the toe nail from the injured toe! It has left the toes somewhat vulnerable to rubbing, so I´m having to be very careful to protect them!
Sahagun is a very interesting placeand has one of the oldest churches (12th century) in Spain in Moorish/Romanesque style, and the 13th century Iglesia de San Lorenzo. The old town gate was also very interesting. We took some photos which we will hopefully be able to publish with this blog. If not, we will definitely publish the photos when we reach Leon.
We went to Vespers at tbhe convent chapel because pilgrims are given a blessing by the Abbess. I´ve never seen a more ancient collection of nuns! The only exceptions were the Abbess and 2 young African nuns who arrived late for Vespers! After that it was back to thne hostal for our pilgrim meal and early bed.
Sunday May 13th Sahagun - El Burgo Ranero 18kms
For all the luxury, we didn´t sleep well Someone let off fire crackers in the street at about 2 in the morning! Another hot day, but fortunately, not so far to go today. After breakfast at the hostal we set off and the walk was rather uneventful. We followed the line of the motorway. As we approached El Burgo Ranero we passed a poor chap who was walking very awkwardly. It looked like he had dislocated his hip! Shortly after we arrived an ambulance came to pick him up, so he must have somehow managed to make it!
The albergue here is very quaint it´s made of adobe and is just like old English wattle without the daub! I suppose it´s fortunate that it doesn´t usually rain all that much here! Apparently the last few weeks have been exceptional! We managed to do a proper wash in a washing machine! Makes a change from having to hand wash everything! The restaurant across the road from the albergue was excellent ad we enjoyed a very good pilgrim menu.
That´s all now until we reach Leon, when we are going to have a real treat. we´ve booked a night in the San Marco 5* parador!!
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Marian
non-member comment
Take care of the feet...
and keep enjoying the experience.... lolmx