24) Bikaner - the unexpected gem in the desert


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April 6th 2005
Published: April 6th 2005
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Junagarh Fort in BikanerJunagarh Fort in BikanerJunagarh Fort in Bikaner

Contrasting yellow sandstone fortifications and red sandstone palaces
Although Bikaner is well off the tourist route, for us it was perfectly situated because we were on our way to Jaipur and it was right in the middle. We arrived there quite late, around 8:30 p.m. after a very long bus ride through the desert. We had wanted to leave Jaisalmer in the morning but although there is regular bus service, the earlier buses are not allowed for tourists because their route runs too close to the Pakistan border. As we wanted to take a private bus this time because they have more comfortable seats, we had to accept that they only sold us tickets for the 2 p.m. bus. Interestingly this trip was less tedious than the one to Jaisalmer, because we saw a lot of animals, many groups of antelopes, some eagles and huge flocks of wild peacocks, the Indian national bird. When we arrived, the sandstorm that had started the day before in Jaisalmer was still raging and should last for two more days. We took our lodging in a nice family-run hotel close to the palace and had some small dinner there.

Next morning the sandstorm kept blowing, turning the sky light brown and almost
Fort entranceFort entranceFort entrance

View of a fine palace after entering the stout walls
emptying the streets. But we were in the mood for walking and ready to brave the elements. We walked to the Jalgarh Fort (yes, another one!) and were there well at the opening hour, which enabled us to have a look in peace. In the middle of our tour we had a very nice experience with a French group. We came to talk to their guide and told him that we had already been travelling close to two months, whereupon he presented us to his group as the experts for the South of India. We were feeling like rock stars, all the people gathered around us and asked us the most diverse questions. It was so nice to be in the centre of attention, and apparently they really envied us for what we were doing. Being an individual traveller is not always easy, and an experience like this one easily outweighed all the negative impressions we have had so far (there were not so many, actually).

Built at the end of the 16th century, it is one of the finest in western Rajasthan and a good example of the paradox between medieval military architecture and beautiful interior decoration. From
Wonderful windowsWonderful windowsWonderful windows

The windows are in the original red sandstone, the walls beneath have been painted
the outside the thick fortifications strongly indicate the former military strength, but due to the colourless sky the yellow sandstone did not have its usual impact. Upon entering, the scenery changed dramatically into fine palaces with beautiful courtyards in between. This palace also has nice stone carvings but not as elaborate as in Jodhpur, this fort’s most impressive feature are the wall paintings (at least in our view). All the doors and shutters are adorned with the most beautiful lacquer work and much of it had already been restored expertly. Some restoration was still going on and we were lucky to observe the artists do their fastidious and time-consuming work. The ceilings are of wood as well and they are also decoratively painted. It seems that the ruler who built the fort attracted famous artists who did their best to adorn the walls and pillars with paintings, mirror-and-glass inlays and gold leaf. We admit, we were once again walking around like small children at the Christmas tree and could hardly believe the splendour we saw. Although palaces are well known to the European tourist, the forts and palaces in Rajasthan are exceptionally well preserved, especially the interior, and each made
Windows with Dutch tilesWindows with Dutch tilesWindows with Dutch tiles

In medieval times the Dutch were successful traders, their tiles have found their way to India
us admire the rulers’ display of luxury. In each palace, many rooms are used for the display of objects of art, such as manuscripts, miniature paintings, palanquins and weapons. The armoury section was very prominent in Bikaner, they were very beautifully displayed and looked almost like paintings. But we are not very keen on weapons and merely admired their elaborate decoration and precious materials. Even an aeroplane from the First World War was on display, as the then Bikaner ruler was a signatory at the Versailles Treaty and he had received it as a war memento. Visiting a huge fort like Bikaner takes several hours, and afterwards you are worn out for all you have seen!

We needed a break and had lunch, later on we walked to the train station in order to enquire about possible trains to Jaipur. Although we prefer trains to buses, we have so far had huge problems with the timetable in Rajasthan, and it turned out that we would also take a bus this time. Klaudia had not completely recovered, she still felt quite weak and decided to drive back to the hotel to have a rest. In the meantime, Stephan went on
Klaudia close to the poolKlaudia close to the poolKlaudia close to the pool

Had it been full and had the water been clean, she would have jumped in
his way to the old city, always on the lookout for good and interesting pictures.

He hired an auto-rickshaw to take him to the main tourist places in the old town, which fortunately were all in walking distance one from the other. First he walked through one street where many havelis can be found. Havelis are mansions of rich merchant families, which mostly date from the 19th century and which, by their opulence, are destined to clearly indicate their owners‘ wealth and exquisite taste. But due to the economic rise of the coastal regions, the inner country trading posts have lost much of their former importance and many merchants have left their houses. Many of the havelis now look abandoned and are slowly falling to pieces. Furthermore, that day the sandstorm was raging and most of the houses were locked and the streets empty for Indian standards. Nevertheless there are some exquisite havelis in Bikaner, whose sandstone carvings combine traditional Rajasthan haveli architecture with colonial influence.

After visiting the nice houses, Stephan went to see the Bandeshwar Temple, a very special Jain temple. There he met a very nice Swiss couple from Geneva, Cynthia and Laurent. It turned
Stephan at restStephan at restStephan at rest

It's good to have shelter from the sun and dust
out that they were the only other non-Indian guests in our hotel, which made them quite laugh. This temple dates from 1514 and is believed to be the oldest existing structure of Bikaner, from the days when it was just a desert trading outpost of Jodhpur. It is so special because of being the only painted Jain temple, at least inside, all the other temples of its kind are completely white and decorated with unique stone carvings. The paintings are absolutely incredible, in stunning colours! There are so many different scenes of the most diverse topics and in unbelievable detail. And there is another unbelievable feature about this temple: due to the water scarcity, it was built with butter as a replacement for water! They allegedly used 40,000 kilos in order to make the cement. In summer, the whole building begins to “sweat” due to this fact, does this not sound like a story on April’s Fool Day? Afterwards, Stephan went back to the hotel and we tried our luck at a cyber café, but it was a miserable failure. Well, this way we could be back in time to enjoy our lunch with Cynthia and Laurent at the hotel.
Cleaning courtyardCleaning courtyardCleaning courtyard

Dust, dust, dust everywhere you look


Next day, it was Klaudia’s turn to get wiser

April 8th: HAPPY BIRTHDAY KLAUDIA!


The day before, Stephan had enough time to buy her some lovely surprise presents and she even got some beautiful flowers from the hotel garden. Isn’t he sweet?



Additional photos below
Photos: 28, Displayed: 27


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Painted doorsPainted doors
Painted doors

These have already been wonderfully restored
Door detailDoor detail
Door detail

Incredible how natural the paintings are, one would like to sniff at the flowers
Painted alcovePainted alcove
Painted alcove

Detail of a special room, which is completely filled with blue and white clouds
Painting detailPainting detail
Painting detail

Hanuman, the monkey-faced god, is massaging Rama's legs (identified thanks to Sandeep's nice help)
Coronation HallCoronation Hall
Coronation Hall

The best was just good enough for a future maharajah
Painted roomPainted room
Painted room

Not even the smallest part of the wall was left unpainted
Plaster workPlaster work
Plaster work

Real artists at work
Animal sceneAnimal scene
Animal scene

Who is biting who?
Don't sniffDon't sniff
Don't sniff

Of course she could not contain herself
Window carvingWindow carving
Window carving

We have seen carvings quite often now, but are still amazed about the beauty
Window from insideWindow from inside
Window from inside

Nobody can see in, but the exterior is clearly visible
Haveli cornerHaveli corner
Haveli corner

For Indian standards, the streets were empty
Typical Bikaner haveliTypical Bikaner haveli
Typical Bikaner haveli

Also the merchant families knew how to live well
Haveli windowHaveli window
Haveli window

Anybody out there?


6th August 2005

Paintaing Detail
Stephan, in this painting it is lord Ram with his wife Devi Sita and one who is standing behind is his younger brother Laxman Not Lord Shiva as you have mentioned. I would like to congratulate both you and Klaudia for your expert comments on this country.
8th August 2005

Error corrected
Thanks a lot for the correction Sandeep, we do our best but sometimes we were lost in this Hindu panoply of gods... Indeed, Hanuman is always associated with Rama and therefore this mistake should not have happened. We are actually in Singapore, once again visiting some colourful Hindu temples. Hope you will follow us on our trip. Stephan and Klaudia
19th September 2005

Swastika
The swastika is the holiest non-syllabic symbol (also see Om) in Hinduism. By extension Jainism and Buddhism also use this symbol. In the West, however, it is generally recognised as the badge of the Nazi movement. The motif seems to have first been used by early inhabitants of Eurasia. However, it was also adopted in Native American cultures, seemingly independently. The swastika is now used universally in religious and civil ceremonies in India. Most Indian temples, wedding, festivals and celebrations are decorated with swastikas. By the early twentieth century it was widely used worldwide, and was regarded as a symbol of good luck and auspiciousness. Swastikas appeared on the spines of books by the Anglo-Indian writer Rudyard Kipling, and the symbol was used by Robert Baden-Powell's Boy Scout movement.
7th March 2011
Typical Bikaner haveli

Its having magic effecs to the viewer
do
28th October 2012
Painted room

I LOVE THIS FORT VERY MUCH
22nd May 2019

Cab Service in Bikaner
Superb post, we enjoyed each and everything as per written in your post.Thank you for this article because it’s really informative, I love reading your blog.
5th October 2019

Taxi Service in Bikaner
Thanks for sharing impressive blog, all images are amazing. It is very beautiful city and and there have many places to visit for sightseeing. Thank you

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