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Asia » Thailand » Western Thailand » Kanchanaburi » Thong Pha Phum
October 30th 2011
Published: October 30th 2011
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When we left Phuket, we really didn’t know what to expect. We had heard a town called Kanchanaburi was fun, inexpensive and most importantly, not under-water. We left as a group of eight, lost two, and as of today (Saturday) our group has swelled to thirteen of the original thirty-two ATI students. It is really tragic to see the devastation that has hit our new home-away-from-home, as more than one-third of Thailand’s provinces are now under water. Even major portions of the capital city Bangkok, with a population estimated to be somewhere between twelve and sixteen million people, are in the process of evacuation. The flooding is hitting our ATI group hard as well. At the very least five of the ATI students have found the situation too overwhelming, or too inconvenient, and are on their way home, and several more may be yet to follow. In the worst case, they are out $1,500, have a TESOL certificate in hand, and a great time to show for it. It’s hard to complain about that when so many around us are struggling for basic necessities such as food, clean water and shelter in the midst of the devestation. As for Tara, myself,
Reggae!Reggae!Reggae!

This reggae / ska band played for a crowd of 800, in front of a crowd of 8
and the rest of our group in Kanchanaburi, we have a lot of sight-seeing under our belts and are more than content to cruise around the countryside, relax, and level-out.

This posting may seem a little jumbled and random, a bit of this and a bit of that. Such is life for a farang living on a small budget in Kanchanaburi, and I doubt I could ask for it any other way. After our day trip to the waterfalls, we rented some motorbikes for 170 baht (about $5) / day and have been enjoying the natural beauty of Thailand, along with some good food and cheap markets. Here are a few of the things we've been doing this week while we wait to hear about a teaching placement.
Since some Peter Tosh just came up on my grooveshark playlist (Pandora is not yet enabled in Thailand), why not talk a little reggae?

I was very pleased to find that a love of all things reggae is not a phenomenon isolated to Phuket. I thought it was an island thing, but it definitely seems to be more of a Thai thing in general. The reggae bar we visited had
Kanchanaburi backroads 6Kanchanaburi backroads 6Kanchanaburi backroads 6

What could words add to images like these?
a live band with no less than eight members jamming their hearts out for a crowd of scarcely more than eight of us. It was remarkable, as the group, heavily laden with a variety of percussion, worked its way through the Bob Marley catalogue, but with a very unique and pronounced ska tempo (meaning faster, more upbeat, and much better for dancing). As I sit and contemplate the confluence of Thai culture and Reggae music, the parallels are not difficult to comprehend. The basic message of Buddhism involving, peace, love, charity, freedom and compassion rings find an echo in the lyrics found in roots reggae, while the playful, worry-free attitudes are embodied in the Thai way of life. I have a feeling I will be hearing a lot of reggae here, and that sits just fine with me.

The Cave Temples: Wat Tham Khao Pun, as this cave temple is known, is a series of underground caves used for Buddhist meditation and religious ceremonies. Adding to the aura of mystery is the fact that no one knows the origin of the caves in their function as a Buddhist sanctuary and temple. What is known is King Rama V, one
Street Puppies 2Street Puppies 2Street Puppies 2

Where there are street dogs, there are street puppies. I bet you can guess who is ecstatic about that (hint, see above photo)
of Thailand’s best known and most respected Kings, came to Kanchanaburi to visit the temples as a young man in 1870. King Rama is known throughout Thailand as the King who helped bring Thailand (then known as Siam) to modernity. He helped transform Siam politically into a European style state, modernized the armed forces and legal code, and through his efforts was able to keep Siam free in the age of European colonialism (neighboring Vietnam, Cambodia and Lao, were all subjected to French rule with over a century of turmoil death and destruction in the wake, while the Burma (Myanmar) to the west was subject to years of British colonial rule). The temples are filled with many Buddhist artifacts of unknown date and origin, and it is truly a majestic site to behold. Inside of the caves, one can’t help but imagine ancient Buddhist monks painting the torch lit walls, practicing meditations and reciting sutras as shadows danced against the natural limestone architecture.

Outside of the cave was a little stand that serves food. Tara ordered pad thai without meat, but apparently the chef didn’t understand that also means we do not want dozens of tiny little dried shrimp
KidsKidsKids

Thai kids look on inquisitively as the farang convoy passes by. A wave from the back of the bike brought giant smiles, shouts and waving hands.
with eyes peeking back at you mixed in. Woops! New rule, when ordering from street vendors remember “rao gin jay. Mai sai neua. Mai gai, mai moo, mai ahan talay, mi goong, mi phed, cop khun khrap” (“She is a vegetarian, no meat, no chicken, no pork, no seafood, no shrimp, not spicy, thank you”). Hopefully that works out more often than not.

Just beyond the cave temple is a giant sitting fat Buddha (the ones we are used to seeing in the west). I am still not sure what this large, plump Buddha represents as I am quite certain the historical Buddha, Sidhartha Gautama, never carried such girth. I made an offering below the Buddha in the traditional manner we had been shown in Thai cultural training, and I’m sure I didn’t do it right. Oh well! We then went to sit by the water and heard a loud thumping beat that echoed for miles up and down the river. Eventually, we realized it was a giant boat, with a roof, and music absolutely pounding from within. Bright strobe lights and flashing glow bands could be seen from the water-borne dance party. I remember thinking what a blast
Kanchanaburi back roadsKanchanaburi back roadsKanchanaburi back roads

A small banana grove to be.
it must be. Fast forward a day later when a few of us went to a small park near the water to relax and practice a short sitting meditation. Once again the giant party boats were floating around, drowning the gentle splash of the water, the local song birds, and the general atmosphere of a pleasant afternoon in the shade of palm trees along the river Kwai. The blasting was so powerful, and the music so obnoxious, we could no longer even stand to sit there. The worst part, the terrible racket that disrupted miles of the countryside that day was all on the count of the roughly 15 people who (attempted) to dance about the boat. I left wondering how it could possibly be legal for these boats to pollute the peace and serenity along the water twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week. I guess even in Thailand, profit speaks louder than people.

Riding the motorbikes around the countryside is truly unbelievable. We took a dirt road to find a temple complex known as the “Buddha’s Footprint” and wound up driving through rice paddies, banana groves and other rural Thai farms completely surrounded by limestone cliffs
Giant Monkey Pod TreeGiant Monkey Pod TreeGiant Monkey Pod Tree

This is the largest monkey pod tree in Thailand. It took many stops, hand drawn maps and conversations in broken Thai and English to find it but we did. I am coming to realize that oftentimes the journey is as fruitful and the destination.
which shoot up from the fertile plains to a breathtaking backdrop. It was the first time we were so surrounded by rural countryside that we thought a tiger may just stroll out of the brush. What a feeling! The people in the rural areas are also the friendliest you can encounter in Thailand. They can’t help but stop what they are doing to wave as we drive by, and they are always welcome and ready to help draw maps, or consult everyone in the house to figure out what you are asking, and how they can help you. On our way to the giant Monkey Pod Tree (Thailand’s largest) we never would have made it without the help of the friendly, smiling Thai people.

On one such adventure through the Thai country-side we found a random market in the middle of a field. Of the couple hundred people here we were literally the only farangs on the premises. Rather than feeling out of place, the vibe was overwhelmingly welcoming. I ordered a Thai green-curry for 20 baht (66 cents) and the broth was absolutely the most flavorful I have had in Thailand. I could have done without the congealed blood cakes (when blood is poured into boiling water to form a jell-o like blood substance which is then cubed and added to all types of dishes), but when it comes to street food and rural market vendors, if you can’t eat around a few congealed blood cakes, you might as well not eat. The vendor had to make two special trips to find me and make sure I was enjoying my meal, and a random vendor immediately came over to me with the stool he was likely using when he saw me eating my food on the ground. I shared some blood cakes with the market dogs, finished my bag of soda (no that isn’t a type-o, in order to be sure bottles are recycled the vendors pour your soda and ice into a small plastic bag with a straw), and we were on our way. The friendliness and general good feeling of the market outweighed the stench of the fly covered fresh fish baking in the 90 plus degree heat, and we departed with many waves and well wishes in broken English.

We have also stopped at a few of the considerably larger day and night markets
The Bridge Over the River KwaiThe Bridge Over the River KwaiThe Bridge Over the River Kwai

If you have read the book, seen the movie, or just heard the name, this is it.
near the city which deal more in obvious knock-off apparel and many delicious varieties of food. Last night I was introduced to Thai “boxing-pants," and am quite impressed. For 89 baht (about $3) these incredibly lightweight and baggy cotton pants are the perfect remedy for the oppressive heat, just tie the waist, fold the excess fabric over the tie, and go. Who would have imagined that long pants could be considerably cooler and many times more comfortable than western-style shorts? Not me, but I am a believer now!

Today after a brief cruise around town Tara and I came up to the restaurant/hangout above the water where the open air setting allows for a comforting escape from the October heat, and we’ve been lounging here ever since. Sight-seeing is great, and there is much to see, but I am also beginning to appreciate another hobby of the Thai people – relaxing, chatting casually and just taking a few moments to breath. With all of the going, and doing, and accomplishing in the race to get this new device or that new pair of shoes we all grow so accustomed to, it is almost a shock to see that life
The tragedy of warThe tragedy of warThe tragedy of war

One of the many stones at the local war cemeterys commemorating those who died building the River kwai bridge under Japanese tutalage
can be lived at another pace. Perhaps this is because we are not yet working, have plenty of money, and no major expenses or responsibilities, but perhaps it is a tangible state of mind that we can continue to cultivate in our time here. Maybe we can even bring a little bit of the Thai mind-set home with us, to see how it flies there. That part of the story is yet to be written.


Additional photos below
Photos: 28, Displayed: 28


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The cost of war 2The cost of war 2
The cost of war 2

One of the many war cemetery pay testament to the role foreign powers have tragically played on this region.
Soda in a bagSoda in a bag
Soda in a bag

8 baht gets you a refreshing bagged soda on ice. Don't be fooled, this was filled to the top and ice-cold when we bought it. You can also see me holding a bag of delicious green curry (20 baht)


31st October 2011

Glad you caught up the explanation with the pictures I saw earlier in the week....I'm not sure I would like the caves, but the dragon temple was really neat - almost looks like a theme park ride from the front ! My favorite is the white statue with all the arms.... So strange to see you driving that scooter/bike - you look like a natural. I'm enjoying the warm looking pictures - we've had our second snow - it covered the trees and I guess was pretty - we certainly are at odds over weather! Thank you for the history that goes with the pictures - even though you and Tara are experiencing the same thing, you both have a different take on it and they complete each other. Lucky for all of us, she's taking some fantastic photos. And finally, Tara looks wonderful in the new clothes, but I'm not sure those boxer pants will fly in NY - can you see Dan or Matt wearing them?? hahaha - keep being careful and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that you both will get a job!
2nd November 2011

Hi!
Hi mom, I'm sorry to hear about the terrible weather there. Glad you are still enjoying the stories. We are getting better on the motorbike by the day. We took a 40km ride today to some 12th century ruins which were pretty cool. I will write about it later. Supposedly we are supposed to hear about a job by Thursday so I will keep you posted. Talk to you soon.
12th November 2011

7$ a day hotel room
What a good choice of accomodation, from your picture you were staying in V N Guesthouse. The most relaxing place that we stay on our visits to Kanchaburi. Food in V N is about the best value you will get around there. Enjoy your stay and good luck with your job search....
25th November 2011

It's great to see that it's still possible to have the wide eyed experiences that I had too long ago to recall, and that the magic of Thailand is still there for all to experience if they just go a little further. Great blog Dan, I hope Nakhon Sawan gives you as much to enjoy and write about.

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