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Published: October 13th 2011
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Ok, so perhaps the title is slightly hyperbolic, but even so, it is not too far from the truth. Readers will recollect
my previous experience in Darjeeling, and how much I loved it.
This time, my feelings are quite a bit more lukewarm. There are so many damn Indian tourists here invading MY city. And yes, I am fully aware of the ridiculousness of my previous statement. Last time I was here five years ago it was so quiet you could wander at leisure and the city didn't get in your way. Now there are so many Bengalis from Kolkata around, all understandably trying to get away from the heat of the plains. Combine that with the Puja holidays and you get a situation where the city is overwhelmed. And where I am overwhelmed. West Bengal as a whole is under lockdown because of the vacation, and transportation is
very problematic.
Getting to Darjeeling worked out fine since I was able to take a train from Kolkata (Sealdah) to New Jalpaiguri (thanks to the Tatkal scheme), and from there a share jeep 3.5 hours up to Darjeeling in the back of a jeep with two Americans and a girl from Holland (300 Rupees
because of the holidays). Once I arrived in Darjeeling my first taste of the madness to come was the process of finding a hotel. I had planned to stay at Andy's Guesthouse, the same place I had stayed before, but they were fully booked, as was Hotel Tranquility, my second choice Lonely Planet accommodation. But the nice guy at Hotel Tranquility recommended that I swing by Hotel Aliment and check them out, which I did and I ended up staying there. The only problem I had was that the hot water was only on from 4pm to 6pm which is an incredibly annoying time to have hot water. But conveniently the Hotel Aliment had a restaurant with decent food.
I had hoped to go for a 3-day trek around the Singalila park and I was able to find a trek leaving on my birthday and going to Sandakphu at 3636 meters above sea level. Only 1,000 rupees per day ($20/day) too including food and housing. Not too bad.
On the day before my trek was to depart, I went for a walk into the Happy Valley Tea Estate to get my legs into the walking mood. I was
pretty optimistic. My legs were ok, as was my cardio fitness. I felt pretty ready for departure for the trek.
Weather wise in Darjeeling it is quite cool. I guess Andy's didn't have room heating now that I think of it, but I was so caught up in the moment that I didn't notice. But here I notice the cool, and at night I find it to be a little bit too cool. Will be interesting to see how the temperatures are on the trek.
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Duncan
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Happy Valley
Have fun on the trek Ian. I miss the smell of the tea plantations Guess I\'ll just have to sniff a teabag.