Queen Charlotte Islands. Everyday An Expereince


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Published: September 13th 2011
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Monday September 5, 2011
Tow Hill

I went to bed quite late and naturally slept in quite late. The skies were very overcast and much cooler then yesterday morning. There was a light mist in the air. I had set my tarp up and it was a good thing to do; my tent was nice and dry. I took a walk down the beach to the campground at the end of the road (that lead onto the beach) to look for an outhouse.

I had planned to bike and hike to the very tip of the island (Rose Spit). But because of the overcast skies I lost any motivation and became more interested in moving on. Taking down camp seemed to drag out forever having a companion at camp. Too much talking.

After I was packed up I did hike (the boardwalk) up Tow Hill and to the Blow Hole. The short trail up the hill was amazing and the view was even more amazing. The rock formation at the Blow Hole was equally amazing but because it was low tide I was not able to witness the Blow Hole at work.

I had a very nice visit with an older couple from Burlington, Ont. That moved to New Mexico and then Vancouver Island at the top of the hill.

I rode out of Tow Hill and rode through Masset and Old Masset as I did not ride through the towns on my way north to Tow Hill. The communities were mostly run down Native communities. The winds had really picked up and it was pretty evident that a storm was coming.

When I stopped in Masset for something to eat that same couple that I had talked to at the top of Tow Hill were walking out of the restaurant. I asked about the restaurant as I was unable to tell what kind of restaurant it was from the outside. They said expect to pay $25 for a meal. I said that far too rich for me. They insisted on paying for my super and handed me a $20. How lucky I got when entering the restaurant they said they were closing and directed me across the street to a take-out restaurant in a grocery street. I got two huge hamburgers for $11.

Leaving Masset the wind was going crazy, the rain had started and dark was setting in. I had decided to set out for Pure Lake Picnic Area to camp. The picnic area was half way to Pt. Clements from Masset (or 20 km’s).
By the time I got to the area it had been dark for some time and I was very wet. The picnic area was not what I was hoping for and I had to wander a long trail in the dark trying to find a spot to camp. Wandering in the dark, in the rain, in the wilderness in bear country is not a lot of fun. I was almost forced to keep moving on when I found the one and only spot that I could set up a tent and my tarp. If I can’t set up my tarp I can’t set up my tent.

It really was a night of grief and I vowed not to look for a camping site in the dark anymore after this experience.


Tuesday September 6, 2011
Completely Soaked

I woke up to rain, surprise, surprise. The tarp had done most of its job but I am wedged so tightly that the tarp is not spread out as much as it should be so parts of my tent fly are getting rained on.

At the time of writing this the rain is raining too hard to take down camp and move on. Stuck again.
Mid-afternoon the rain slowed down and I made a run for it but the rain picked up before camp was completely packed away. I rode 25 km’s to Pt. Clements in the rain. When I pulled into the bar that I had visited the day before I was soaked. Everyone at the bar started to debate were I could find the driest place to spend the night. I ordered my first meal of the day and a beer while they debated.

The consensus amongst the crowd was to stay in “the Tower”. It was a wildlife viewing tower at the local campground. By the end of the night the guy that was to show the tower had bought me a beer and the bar tender had also bought me a beer. Not a bad way to end a very wet day. The guy rode with me to the tower and brought up a couple beers so I got another beer
Catching CrabsCatching CrabsCatching Crabs

Notice how close to the shore the boat is
this night.

The Tower is a cool place and am pleased with staying the night here. This was a good score. I was able to push my bike to the second level and leaned it against the benches that I spread my sleeping bag over. Throughout the evening I could hear Sandhill Cranes calling in the night. It also continued to rain throughout the night.


Wednesday September 7, 2011
Queen Charlotte City And A Roof Over My Head

I woke up to overcast skies which are standard for these islands. I was dry but my wet clothing was unable to dry very well through the night. Packing up camp was quick enough rolling up a sleeping bag. Riding back into Tlell I ran into a young couple that were cycling through the area on a two week vacation. They were both riding with B.O.B. trailers (like mine); only difference they both had full suspension bikes so they looked totally out of place for touring. But they seem to make it work.

I rode with them all the way to Queen Charlotte City. This worked out pretty good because I had already ridden this highway and taken my pictures already. The sun started to come out but by the time we got Queen Charlotte City we were riding through rain and getting wet.

There is hostel in town. The couple I was riding with pulled into the hostel ahead of me. The hostel turned out to be full and the lady only had 1 room left. I got real lucky because she would only sell the room as a single and I was able to get it at the hostel price. Lucky for me it was a single room and not a double because I was I would be out in the rain right now. I really need to dry out.



Additional photos below
Photos: 39, Displayed: 26


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North Beach from Tow HillNorth Beach from Tow Hill
North Beach from Tow Hill

Notice the small bit of white smoke. That is where I was camped
North Beach from Tow HillNorth Beach from Tow Hill
North Beach from Tow Hill

A view from the other side of Tow Hill
North Beach from Tow HillNorth Beach from Tow Hill
North Beach from Tow Hill

A view from the other side of Tow Hill
Blow Hole Blow Hole
Blow Hole

The rocky shore at Blow Hole
Blow HoleBlow Hole
Blow Hole

The rocky shore at Blow Hole
Blow HoleBlow Hole
Blow Hole

During high tide this rock formation causes a spray of water that looks like a whale blow hole
Blow HoleBlow Hole
Blow Hole

The rocky shore at Blow Hole
Blow HoleBlow Hole
Blow Hole

The rocky shore at Blow Hole
Leaving Tow HillLeaving Tow Hill
Leaving Tow Hill

Had to get a few more pic's of the mythical mossy rainforest


13th September 2011

Nice People
You have sure met some nice and generous people along the way. Dad

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