High Atlas and into the breach dear friends

---

Greetings all,

Let me appologize for the state of my punctuation: I just cant work out these bloody arabic keyboards: Example full stop or period for those yanks out there is in fact a colon: whilst a commar is a semi colon; A colon is a ù whatever the hell that is: So from now on just be a little patient and play by their rules: I you cant beat them join them as they say:

Morocco is a rather strange country: To be quite honest with you up until today I havent really be enjoying it so much: Its beautiful and all but I guess I was spoilt by Spain: Also everyone in this country seems to be on the take and you cant really trust anyone as they want your money: Now I know what your all thinking " know shit Ben isnt that the same anywhere?" True it is the same in many places but in Thailand; Indo or Nepal for example people are after your money but are willing to have a conversation with you about something that doesnt regard the old casheesh:

Not so in Morocco: But I think thats one of the things that make this place unique everyone will try it on with you but if you are strong in your position say no thankyou "la Shokran": Explain that you cant buy any souvenirs for your family as they all unfortunately died of bird flu the past year: And thankyou very much for bringing it up mr semi toothless man: And I dont care if that bloody awful piece of jewellery is made with camel bone: They will leave you alone with a smile on their face: They just appreciate the chance to try and sell their wares: The other day in Marrakesh A guy came down from 250 to 50 dirhams for a rather poor square camel drum: I didnt buy it of course but I was immediqtely christened "Strong Ben" in the neighbouring store one of whom sold me an Arab head dress for 20 dirhams and that was his starting price: Suffice to say Im getting into Morocco and I have to say this place is a shoppers paradise:

The last 4 nights have been spent in the High Atlas hiking around with Alex and Loreli from Paris the first two days and Didier and Eric from Tolous the next two: I payed for a guide more out of fear of not knowing the area than anything else: Didnt need the guide of course: Matter of fact he was quite useless: I asked him what a mountains name was once and he explained that it was called col; or peak in French?! Can just imqgine him wondering around answering questions "Whats that Hussein?" "That Ben is a tree" or "That Ben is a sheep": In fact the most exciting thing he did for us was give us all foodpoising: Dont worry Im fine but it stopped me from summiting Toubkal this morning as I felt awful: Have been running to the loo all day which is quite a task when you have to decend some 1500 meters from the refuge I spent last night in on the mountain:

Was a bit of a shame not to get too the top but I really dont care: There were so many other annoying tourists at the refuge that I was glad to be rid of them and all in all I did enjoy my time in the High Atlas:

Am back in Marrakesh for the night and will head off to Fez tommorow before visiting the Rif mountains in Northern Morocco: Plan to head back south through the Sahara on the Algierian border; sounds romqntic but I think loads of other travellers do it before hopefully getting into Essouria on the coast nearish Marrakesh for a huge African music festival that starts on the 22nd: If anyone wants to join me for that you are most certainly welcome: Of course all plans chqnge but I think mine is a good one and quite achievable: Enshalla or god willing of course:

---

Photos

Alex and Orely
My fellow treking companions from Paris. They even joined me in getting food poisoning.

A Berber Village
Berbers' are the original inhabitants of Morocco and make up the majority of the population. Often people will tell you that someone is trustworthy because they are Berber. Take everything with a pinch of salt of course. The Berber and very different throughout Morocco. The Rif Berber in the North for instance are a very strong, straight forward people who take insult easily but are quick to offer warmth and respect if you show the same to them whilst standing your ground. The Rif Berber were my favourite.

Comments

[Anick]

coucou
Hello Ben Mathias Give me your blog adress and it's nice to read your feelings in the Camino. I discover an other Ben Tittle!! The language barrier (i dont know if I can tell this in english) was an obstacle for me to know you better. I will take English lessons in september! So, for the previous party in my home i'll be able to understand everything! Ben, I know now what I learned in the Camino and it's not what I tought in Finisterre....The Camino teach me who I am really. I should tell you more in french...in english it's hard for me to explain more....sorry. I love your comparison between the Camino and the Wizard....very nice...Sunday I will walk with Catherine in a small but nice mountain We will certainly talk about you.....bye bye Amitié Anick XX

[Yusuf]

Can't view pix
I loved your travelogue, but unfortunately, all pictures appear black with a red blob on the upper left hand side.