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Published: July 31st 2011
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I was awake long before I opened my eyes. Hot, noisy room, roommates coming in and out, and fear that I may fall out of the incredibly high top bunk (with nothing to stop me) made sure that I didn't sleep much...
But today was my first full day in Israel, and I was going out to explore!
Fueled with a jam sandwich (from Manchester) and a freshly squeezed orange juice (from Jaffa... about 2k down the road!) I set out.
A brief dice with death and on the other side of the road I entered the Old City of Jerusalem. Although I had entered last night, this morning it was light, and could have been mistaken for a completely different place! Shops had appeared from mere cracks in the walls and there were loads people everywhere! Some moving fast, some slow, some riding on the back of the dustbin man’s tractor, some pushing wagons of fruit and veg along, and then using a tyre to ‘skateboard’ the rest of the way downhill.
First stop was Haram Ash-Sharif / Temple Mount. Or so I had hoped, had I not been stopped at one of the entrances by Security,
Western Wall
Look close enough and you can see the pieces of paper that prayers are written on and stuffed into the cracks for a better chance of being answered... or holding it together! who informed me that it was closed for prayers. But also helpfully informed me that I could try a gate further along!
I got a bit distracted along the way, when the path I was walking along turned into something that resembled airport security – a metal detector and x-ray machine… I duly put my bag down for the machine and walked through the detector… little knowing what may be on the other side… it was, of course, The Western Wall! Quite a sight! A huge… wall… that acts as an open-air synagogue! Built over 2,000 years ago, incredible to think how many people had come here, or indeed, who had been here in that time! I was lucky enough to be able to get a closer look by taking out my scarf, covering my head and making my way to the section in front of the wall where people were praying (but making sure that I entered on the female side, as males and females pray separately). After a couple of minutes of peaceful observation, I noticed that there appeared to be somesort of unwritten rule about walking away without turning your back to the Wall… a bit
like walking away from the Queen (so I’ve heard…) So, this I did on departure… hoping that the people coming towards the Wall would be more observant than me and I could avoid any embarrassing collisions!
After a couple of tourist photos and a visit to the Western Wall ‘facilities’ (one of the most religious toilets I think I’ve visited…) I made my way up, what appeared to be, a rickety ramp. This was also approached through some serious security. Again, not really knowing where I was going… I popped out at one of the entrances to Temple Mount – Woohoo! From my trusty map, I was informed that I had entered via the ‘non-Muslim’ entrance, and as such I hadn’t been stopped this time. As I entered, I was asked "Muslim?" And upon my negative reply, I was barked orders as to where I could and could not visit. Basically, I was allowed to wander (a bit) outside, but nowhere inside (I don’t know if this was just because it was nearly prayer time, or all the time, or because he didn’t like the colour of my headscarf?) It was impressive enough to take in the sights on a
wander around the peaceful grounds.
History lesson: The history of the site goes back many many years… with the first Jewish temple reputedly built here 1,000 years before Christ! In 586BC Nebuchadnezzar II destroyed it. Only for it to be rebuilt by King Herod in 515BC, but around AD66 the Romans smashed in before erecting a temple to Zeus. The buildings present on the site now are said to date from between AD688 and 691. The site is now home to Temple Mount – and to the famous Dome of the Rock (the huge gold dome on top) – and is (purportedly) the third most important place, among Sunni Muslim, in Islam. Whilst at the time I was there it was peaceful, it is, apparently, one of the most contested religious sites in the world. Why? Well, because it is said to cover a very important rock - according to Islamic tradition, it was here that Abraham prepared to sacrifice his son, and the prophet Mohammed launched himself heavenward to take his place alongside Allah. However, according to Jewish lore, the rock is the foundation stone of the world and also very important in their faith.
Now more
time has been spent by me here explaining the history of this incredible place than I actually had the opportunity to spend on the land… as I was most definitely kicked out and the proper prayer time! Not to worry, it gave me the opportunity to find somewhere else to spend my time…
and good job too as I made my way across to possibly the most important place in the Christian faith, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. I kinda knew my way, through the little windy streets, but was fortunate to come across two, very helpful little guides! After the a few polite words of “what is your name” “how are you” “you go to the church” (little signal with fingers making a cross, so that there was no confusion with a mosque or synagogue) their English was exhausted (and my Arabic was non-existent) so we set off in silence. 5 minutes or so later, we arrived… and they found the power of speech again! Their English teacher had chosen only a few select phrases to teach them… the final one being “give me money”… I gave them some random coins that I’d acquired, which I knew
would buy me very little, and thanked them for their time… then ran away towards the church!
Now… I’m not going to profess to be very religious, probably couldn’t even pretend to be slightly religious… I used to go to church, but don’t anymore… however, I felt extremely moved upon entering the Church and whilst looking around. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre (resurrection) is said to be where Jesus was nailed to the cross, died and rose again. Entering through a rather unassuming door (with hordes of tourists) I came upon the Stone of Unction – a stone which commemorates Jesus’ anointment before burial – and a beautifully colourful mosaic. Without rambling on (for more detail, see pictures below, or Wikipedia it!), other points of interest inside the church included; mosaic depictions of three of the stations of the cross (11, 12 and 13 - Bishop Middleham assembly came back to me!), a tiny Coptic chapel, an incredible ceiling mosaic in the Basilica, the church of St Helena (where it is said the cross was buried), the Prison of Christ, the Chapel of Mary Magdalene, and, of course, the 14th Station of the Cross, and the Tomb of
The Dome!
80KG of Gold, said to have cost the King of Jordan $8.2m! Jesus. The Edicule (the room in which the tomb is housed) is in the center of the Rotunda and a hole in the roof means that a beam of light shines down onto it… v.striking. Whilst queuing to get inside, I felt quite emotional. In the first room, a stone (mostly dust) lies in a casket – this is said to be a fragment of the stone which sealed the tomb after Jesus’ burial. In the second room, lies the tomb surrounded by many candles and religious pictures. After a brief prayer I came out of the room and took some quiet time to collect my thoughts…
Before braving my re-entry into the outside world! I headed north and into the Christian Quarter of the Old City. I thought it very bizarre to see wooden crosses being sold next to wooden camels, hamsa souvenirs beside sheesha pipes, Kippot (Jewish skullcap) alongside keffiyeh (Arab headscarf), people wearing traditional dress and sundresses, speaking Arabic, Hebrew, German, Russian, French, Greek, and pictures of every God that you could imagine wanting to worship (including David Beckham!)… and then to think that this place is in the middle of a long standing, deep rooted
conflict…
I made my way back through the bustling streets, out Damascus gate and to the Hostel. I collected my backpack and headed to the Arab bus station. I got on the bus I had been advised to take, and set off for… Bethlehem!
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K8
non-member comment
1st Day
My my as ever yu can't keep still ! it all looks wounderful . Enjoy Ramadam K8 x