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Middle East » Iran » West » Shush
May 26th 2006
Published: May 28th 2006
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Local resident
Planned to leave Esphahan the day before yesterday but the bus wasnt leaving till 7pm and I heard about a tour to Kashan and Abanyeh, they were on my original itinerary so, why not. I stole a book out of the exchange library, there was only one in English, The Bonfire of The Vanities, naturally if I had a choice I would have chosen somethinmg else, it wasnt bad I, think I am becoming cultured. What a lazy day only left the room to eat occasionaly.

I was off on the road at 7am the next morning luggage packed and ready to go, the driver turned up on time and we were off, the drive was really safe though the driver was a little strange but in a nice way, he has been driving trucks back and forward to Europe for 20 years and was eager to tell me about all the dirty woman he has picked up in the disco's.

The scenery was spectacular high mountains and endless plains, especially around Abanyeh, as we drove up into the mountains there was a beautiful gorge, and dug into the hillsides there were what looked like hobbit houses with little doors, they are actually for storing animal food when the winter snows come. The villiage is similar to other mud villiages I have seen except they have used an ochre coloured mud and ewach house was equipped with wooden balconies that looked out over the misty mountains and beautiful valley. The village is Unesco listed and is well over 800 years old. So were most of the residents I didnt see many young people at all apparent they go to the cities.

I walked the streets drank in the history and smiled at the crones as the said nice things to me that I couldnt understand, it was a memorable start to the day. The weather was being very kind it was over caste and cool for the first time since I left home and when the rain eventually started to poor down we were on the way back to Esphahan.

Kashan was next and another garden, Iranian people have this thing about gardens, I think perhaps it has to do with the aridness of their land, anyway doesnt do much for me. Then it was the old mansions and baths that the city is famous for, they
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The village -notice the colour of the buildings
were pretty impressive as you will see sooner or later. I bumped into the Belgium boys their and it was nice to have a quick chat. After the houses a huge meal of Kebabs, Iranian Kababs really are a great feed I will start making my own when I get home I think.

The driver dropped me and my luggage at the bus station at 5ish and I finished of the Vanities book while I waited for the bus. I always book onto a Volvo bus they are new, big, comfortable and modern unlike the 1960's Mercedes buses that are everywhere. I Sat up the front this time I am sick of sitting down the back and it paid off, I had people bringing me tea and taking me under their wings it was more pleasant than sitting alone.

I slept fitfully waking often but it wasnt so bad, at about 5 in the morning I was dropped on the highway about 2 km from the hotel, the LP claims taxis cvome out to take people home unfortunately they didnt this morning so, I accosted some poor guy on a motorbike who took me to a hotel (closed)
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The mountains around the village
so another man wandered over, he had some English, after hearing where I wished to go he flagged down a passing car and I was on the way.

On arrival some skanky old man showed me an average and over priced room and then asked for Baksheesh, I told him to piss off, I was tired and annoyed at the price. This ofcourse got worse as none of the hotel staff speak English and the tour to Choqa Zanbil and Shushtar was twice as expensive as what LP said. Then because all the banks were closed, its the weekend here, they gave me a shit foreign exchange rate which I had to accept. Then after the tour the bloody driver tried to scam me for money.

I went out to Choqa Zanbil at about 10.30 it is the worlds formost Elamite sites and is 3500 years old, it was rediscovered in the 1930's by a BP flight. Its a very impressive structure and is in great shape considering the years it has stood, it is however roped off and I couldnt get as close as I would have wished it was also bloody hot out there as well.

It was then onto Shushtar which was a bloody waste of time although I did get some cream for my cracked and bleeding lips and a nice shot of a ruined bridge.

On returning to Shush I went to visit the tomb of Daniel ( from the lions den fame) he is venerated by the muslims although he has nothing to do with Islam. I was then hijacked by some young lads, I mention the words, "Internet Cafe" in passing and next thing I know I was on the back of another bike (hate motorbikes) heading for the cafe.

Tonight I am going to pig out on Kebabs and have an early night, tomorrow I have a long day on the road, having to switch buses to get to Kermanshah.

Just a few interesting facts about Iran.

Every person who has spoken to me despises the current regime.

Tourism has slumped worse than ever before and the prices being asked for everthing is much higher.

Petrol is 3 Australian cents a litre.

Every Iranian who asks me where I am from laughs and gives me shit about the world cup loss to them 8 years ago.

Iranian girls like to talk to foreign men but are afraid to because of the secret religious police.

Every town and villages has paintings in the main square of the war dead form the Iraq-Iran war.

20 Million (of 60 million) Iranians are under 25 years of age.




Additional photos below
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Kashan - Historical BuildingsKashan - Historical Buildings
Kashan - Historical Buildings

Notice the stone and glass work
Kashan - Historical BuildingsKashan - Historical Buildings
Kashan - Historical Buildings

Notice the stone and glass work
Kashan - Historical BuildingsKashan - Historical Buildings
Kashan - Historical Buildings

Notice the stone and glass work
Kashan - Historical BuildingsKashan - Historical Buildings
Kashan - Historical Buildings

Notice the stone and glass work
Kashan - Historical BuildingsKashan - Historical Buildings
Kashan - Historical Buildings

Notice the stone and glass work
Kashan - Historical BuildingsKashan - Historical Buildings
Kashan - Historical Buildings

Notice the stone and glass work
Kashan - Historical BuildingsKashan - Historical Buildings
Kashan - Historical Buildings

Notice the stone and glass work
Haft TappehHaft Tappeh
Haft Tappeh

Zigurats


29th May 2006

Iran
Once again, fantastic pics - do I smell a book in the winds upon your return? Interesting facts about Iran too, but we all know that the media is full of shit and always makes out everyone in the middle east to be nutcases whereas its only a lunatic fringe in power that gets all the publicity - same with everywhere else in the world that gets bad press.

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