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Day 7 27th May Bellagio – Lake Viverone via Lake Orta (the long way round)
Our last evening in Bellagio was one full of electrical storms that rolled around the lakes and mountains. Hours and hours of sheet lightening and heavy rain preceded a very short night’s sleep in the lorry – safe in the knowledge that our four tyres would surely save us from uncertain death we tried to hunker down but the noise on the roof was akin to a rock drummer having a practise session. So, it was an early start and we bid farewell to Elizabeth and her husband who had been so good to us.
We were loaded onto the ferry following the usual exclamations and shrugging of shoulders – this necessitated a tour of the lorry and reassurance that we were not smuggling horses. We had planned to go to Lake Orta, the smallest of the lakes and one of the most delightful (according to the guide books). Elizabeth had warned us that our planned route via Lake Lugano would be tight in places and worse than our journey to Bellagio. Undaunted we set off around the lake and on nearing the
border between Italy and Switzerland we found ourselves in the tightest situation yet. The road was skinny (narrow would be generous), the lake was on the one side and the mountains on the other. The Italians were not prepared to reverse (a lot of cursing, throwing up of arms and tooting of horns) and let Big Bess through…more cars built up behind each other….I offered to get out, put on the high vis and stop the traffic….Duncan was negotiating the lorry to the very last inch and didn’t want to speak to me…… tension rose……I leapt out (with high vis) just as the cars began to squeeze through. I ran forward to the corner and stopped the rest of the traffic and we passed through. Total annihilation avoided, we thought this would be the one and only bad moment of the day but sadly not.
After negotiating Lugano – no thanks to FANNY who was next to useless and kept wanting us to take a swim in the lake – we headed off to Lake Orta. Lake Orta has one big (ish) road running alongside the east side of the lake. We told FANNY where to go and
up the side of the lake we drove. It seemed steep, it seemed narrow but I was backing up FANNY with the MAP. All seemed okish until we reached the village and discovered that FANNY had taken us on the wrong side of the railway line – indeed between us she and me had taken Big Bess along a small road that ran alongside the main road (well, girls, how was I to know…the map was small, my glasses are probably not strong enough….).
There was a bridge and yes, you guessed it, we were too high. It was very disappointing but we thought we would continue up the little roads and then approach the village from the other end of the lake (on the correct side of the railway line). As we got up to the top of the hill we found the road blocked – necessitating the longest reverse I have ever seen in a lorry (more credit to the pilot). We learnt from a very kind knowledgeable Englishman (who was amazed at seeing a horse lorry in a tiny Italian mountain village) that THE Italian Cycle Race – Le Giro – was taking place, all
roads were closed, all Italians had taken to the corners of the village to wait for their lycra clad heros. We decided that a hasty retreat was in order – we did not need to be caught up in Le Giro. However, before doing so we decided to join the waiting crowds.
What a spectacle. We had no idea that there would be so many outriders, police vehicles, police bikes, motor bikes with cameramen on them, support vehicles with spare bikes, mechanics on motor bikes, three helicopters filming and even vehicles selling Le Giro merchandise….. and then there were the cyclists! Now you see them, now you don’t. I did keep an eye open for my ‘etape’ brother but sadly not spotted…….maybe another year?
We left the mountains and the lakes behind us and descended into the plains en route for Turin. What a contrast from the verdant mountains, we were now surrounded by fields of crops, soft fruits and, amazingly, fields of solar panels! Tomorrow we collect 2 of our sons from Turin airport, they join us for half term.
Tonight we are in the poorest of campsites………we have sworn to each other
we will NEVER come to a place like this again…rather park on the side of a road than this………..but, hey ho, once inside the lorry we are in our own little world…….and we crack open the wine………it hasn’t been the greatest of days but we have seen Le Giro together with some spectacular scenery and we have learnt NOT to trust FANNY (but didn't we already know this!) nor the recommendations of Caravan Club Europe Camping book!
Tally Ho! x
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Nellienoos
Ornella Hulbert
Il Giro d'Italia!
Italians are mad about cycling! In some crazy places high up in the mountain you'll find a bunch of lycra clad, usually, men flying around the place!! It's an obsession!!! The Grand Prix next, a Summer obsession. Now the footie season is over! We're obsessed!!! :-) I'm impressed with your high vis, keeping the calm, saving the day, road traffic control! And I'm also impressed with your pilot!!! You obviously make a great team! How old are the kids? I know I am a wee bit behind in my reading!!! So I shall ask now, before reading further, how is half term going???