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The day started with my half-hearted attempt at seeing Michelangelo's David at the Gallery dell'Accademia. There is a part of me that wants to see the real thing but there is another part of me that doesn't care enough to want to go through the hassle of dealing with the tourists. Have I mentioned how crazy they are? Insane ... they are insane. So I went by the museum, I saw the lines and just kept on walking. I did not realize that Florence was a stop for many cruise ships so the numbers of groups seems to be just out of this world. And you can pick them out easily ... they all have numbered stickers on their chest and are following a lady holding up an umbrella (or a flower, a flag, a paddle or whatever doo-dad you can put on stick to attract attention).
So I went to the synagogue instead. Yes ... I know ... I just had to be different. There is a reason though ... actually a couple of reasons that I wanted to go. First, I saw it when I was at the top of the Duomo yesterday. It actually dominates part of
the skyline. It truly stands out. It is white and pink marble and has three copper domes which have oxidized and are now the bright green colour. The other reason is that I found the Jewish museum in Venice absolutely fascinating and the access to the synagogue gives you access to the Jewish museum here in Florence.
The synagogue was built between the years 1874 and 1882. During World War II, it was bombed by the Germans. The women's area was destroyed and the dome was endangered. Obviously it was rebuilt.
As you walk in, there is a small basket of yarmulke and a sign requesting that men cover their heads. The synagogue itself defies description. I can see it in my head and I truly do not have the words for it. I would say that it is probably one of the most beautiful buildings I have ever seen. Yes even after seeing something like Basilica San Marco ... although it is very different and you can't really compare them. It is rich, dark colours and yet not austentatious. Again ... just cannot find the words. The outside certainly does not prepare you for the inside! What
I wrote in my little notebook that I keep with me is "you could stare at it for days and still find little details that you had not seen a few days before".
The museum is small and again gathers ceremonial objects. I am glad that I saw the museum in Venice first because it went a little bit more in depth in the description of the observances and so I was able to tie the two together. There were antique marriage contracts dating for the late 18th century. There was also an antique circumcision dress (and antique circumcision tools ... mmmm ... I cringed a little inside). There was also great descriptions of the history of the Jews in Florence and there is a touching memorial to those who perished in the concentration camps.
From there, I just walked around a bit and stopped in at a few shops. I made my way into a small store and bought a couple bags of rissoto that was after taste testing about 20 salamis ... yum!). I am stocking up my pantry on this trip ... herbes de provence, violet candies, spices to make pasta, olive oil, rose tea
and now rissoto!
I continued my walk stopping here and there. I made my way to the Piazza della Repubblica and watched little kids on the carousel. I popped into some of the shops around that neighbourhood as well. I am coveting a leather handbag ... oh the loveliness of these bags! Not too sure my suitcase (or my budget!!) allows it. I did manage to find two leather belts though. Leather gloves have also been calling my name quite loudly ...the only thing stopping me is that I cannot make up my mind on the colour!!
One of the stops I made also was to the Chiesa Orsan Michele. This was originally built in 1290 and served a dual function. A place of devotion and a "loggia" for the sale of grain. There used to be upper storeys to store the grain. The tabernacles are frescoed with the different "principal guilds" which include things like cobblers, silk workers and cloth merchants. There is an enormous marble altar in the front and there was a young lady doing some meticulous restoration work on the floor around it.
My walk then took me to the Piazza della Signoria
5 Olive Oil
I bought a small one like this in Venice. I cannot wait to try it on pastawhich fronts the Palazzo Vecchio. That is where I saw fake David. The real David was completed in 1504 and stood in front of Palazzo Vecchio (then known as Palazzo della Signoria) until 1873. At that time, he was removed and placed where he currently resides in the art museum. It is not long after that fake David came along. I will probably come by and say hello to David once again because I would like to visit the Palazzo.
It is only a short walk to the Ponte Vecchio where again insane tourists gather. It reminded me of the Rialto Bridge in that it is a bridge that is lined with shops. The particuliarity of this one is that you can see the shops jutting out of the bridge. I do have to say that there is definitely an interesting story to this bridge. It has been in existence since 1345 and the only one saved in Florence during bombings of World War II. Since the 16th century it has been home to jewellers (which is still the case today). So the insane tourists definitely have reason to gather!
I walked around some more and pressed my
nose in the windows of many amazing boutiques (oh Coco Chanel ... I love you ... and there is a Tiffany & Co here ... good God ... save me from myself!). I don't know if I have said it before but the fashion here is out of this world.
My aimless wandering lead me to the Basilica San Croce. This too I had seen from the top of the Duomo. Initially I thought that it was the Chiesa Santa Maria Novella which is just up the street from my hotel. Once I got my bearings, I realized that this could not be. They are very similar. Actually the design of both these churches and than of the Duomo are all similar ... white marble with accents made of darker colours. Very beautiful church.
I then continued my wandering and came upon the Casa Buonarroti. The name may not mean anything to you. It did not mean anything to me ... well up until I visited the Castle Sforza in Milan and saw the Michelangelo exhibit. Buonarroti is Michelangelo's last name. That would have been a question on final Jeopardy and I would have lost miserably!!
The
house itself contains not only works from Michelangelo himself but also works that the Buonarroti family amassed over the years. There was also a temporary exhibit that compared the works of Leonardo da Vinci and those of Michelangelo. There was a young guy who was sketching one of da Vinci's study of a male figure seen from behind. We chatted for a bit and he said that it was actually quite difficult to reproduce. He seemed in awe of it. That whole temporary exhibit was quite something to see. It also reminded that I needed to go back in my notes to see what Michelangelo had contributed to the city of Florence ... this was part of his many sketches that I saw again in that exhibit in Milan and had taken notes to make sure that I would pop by the actual sights. I had to laugh when I saw a model of the chariot that was used to carry poor David to the Palazzo Vecchio ... it actually took four days to move him the short distance!
By then my knee was really starting to hurt so I decided to make it back to the hotel and
just chill on my balcony. I want to do the trek of the Cinque Terre in just a few days and right now I am walking like an old lady ... ugh aging is not fun! I am going to break out some yoga moves over the next couple of days and see how things go.
I came into my room to find a small snack and drink just waiting for me on the dresser ... nice! The owner had heard me come in because she yelled out from wherever she was "hey lady ... you have fun today" and then a few minutes later I hear a knock at the door. I am thinking that she is coming to tell me about the drink and snack but no ... it was the young girl that does the rooms holding a tray with a big glass of fruit juice. She said "it's so hot we think you might like". Like ... I LOVE! So I sat on my balcony and watched Florence life go by. I will say it again ... loveliness.
Being here as also got me to thinking that I need to start drawing again. I
have seen countless art stores and I am definitely inspired to start it up again. I have also given myself a little challenge ... I am all about trying or learning new things ... watercolours. I want to learn to paint with watercolours. I don't think that I would be any good with any other style of painting but I think that I could handle watercolours. Do not be surprised if I come back home with a small something or other from an art store!
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Sara
non-member comment
Nutella making me drool
I must find these here in Canada.