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Published: April 19th 2011
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Glacier Grey mimi icebergs
Washing up at the lakeside Refugio Paine Grande is a modern refugio with a large bar and restaurant both affording superb views across Lago Pehoe. Next stop is Refugio Grey which is a much smaller refuge on the lakeside of Lago Grey. Large chunks of ice break away from the main glacier and wash up on the shoreline here. The undulating route brought us to the refuge for lunch around 2pm.
After lunch we figured we would try and head north a little further and take a closer look at the glacier. Everyone hikes at their own pace, it's the only way to do things really. Up until now it has worked fine, Marco and Jon would shoot off ahead and generally wait for me at strategic points. Marty would be in front of all of us so generally after breakfast he wouldn't be seen until reaching the next overnight stop. Anyway, today things went a little unexpectedly. As we were all feeling a little heavy legged we said we would get up level with the face of the glacier and then retreat to Refugio Grey. I still don't quite know how it happened but at some point I passed Jon & Marco. I continued
onwards fully expecting to see them waiting on top of one of the many steep inclines. After an hour or so there was still no sign of them. I was feeling quite lively so pushed on further and came to an escarpment with a sheer rockface with attached ladder. Surely they wouldn{t have climbed that and moved on without me? Well, being the crazy adventurer that I am I climbed it anywayhaving edged my way around the side of the cliffto getto the base of the ladder. A sign read 'DO NOT WAIT' with a sketch of falling rocks so I took the advice and scooted onwards. At intervals there were lookouts to the glacier, now beyond the glacier wall and quite high above the views were sensational, a blanket of ice spreading as far as the eye could see.
By this stage I was certain Marco & Jon were behind me and more than likely in the warm comfort of the refugio. I continued a little further, leaving myslef a clear 2 hours daylight to retrace my steps including the treacherous retreat down the ladder of fear. When I reached the ladder again I remembered rather inconveniently that
I really don't like heights. The view down looked far more dangerous than the view up had not so long ago. After a couple of minutes of hesitation I carefully manoevered myslef onto the metal rungs of death and edged myself down, allowing myself a short glance to the left and Glacier Grey way below. I survived the descent.
I saw the first human in several hours at Campamento Guardia. After the obligatory 'hola' he asked if I was Richard and then informed me that Marco & Jon were waiting for me, worried back in the refugio. They had spent over an hour looking for me. Two would have been nice. Back at the refugio all was well again and the consensus was that we had passed each other at the campsite Mirador just at the moment J & M had stepped off the trail for the view I had pushed on straight ahead.
We enjoyed dinner that evening along with Marty, we have now completed the W trek and simply need to retrace tommorow to Refugio Grand Paine where we will take the catamaran to Pudeto and then bus back to Puerto Natales
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Mum G
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Daredevil
I don't know about your palpitations...I was certainly having some while reading this! Just remember, you and ladders don't go together! Stay safe now, luv you lots X