Observations of South America


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South America » Ecuador » North » Quito
March 29th 2011
Published: March 29th 2011
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SOUTH AMERICAN OBSERVATIONS

I have thought a lot about this blog, If you want to express your opinions about the pros and cons of a whole continent it takes a lot of thought. These are some of the things I have observed in my 6 years in mainly Ecuador but this include Peru Columbia and Chile, please bear with me.

Its difficult because I'm not sure on some points if its a pro or a con, I was reared in Europe and sometimes our relatively fast paced somewhat organized approach to our lives has left me wondering if life at a slower pace might be more beneficial to us or at least me, In the meantime, these is my observations in no particular order.
THE WEATHER

Its a wonderful part of the world to see the extremes of Pachamama (mother earth) You can be in blazing sunshine and a black cloud races towards you from your horizon and within moments you are in the middle of the most impressive electric storm, in a matter of minutes the drains are struggling to cope with the huge amounts of precipitation as walls of water fall from the sky accompanied by deafening claps of thunder and lightning that makes this hair on the back of your neck stand on end, Quito storms are magnificent.

Take yourself to Northern Chile and you will find that your day is sunny and warm enough to wear a t shirt and without your (must have) sunblock by evening you are crying out for aloe whilst the sun falls the mercury plummets and you're chilled to the bone and the ground freezes in a matter of hours sending you scurrying to a hearth or more often than not your warm bed.


The power of advertising: It would seem in these parts that there is no need for billboards nor indeed neon lights, It can be a global product (Coca Cola) and it can be painted….yes hand painted on any gavel or any available wall one can always see theses Ads, perfect in every way yet for the difference that somebody went out with a can or two of paint and created these perfect depiction 's of famous worldwide product logos.


THE ROADS

Buses need to get there in the shortest time possible…….at least that is what they would have you believe having sat on many South American busses. Ok, huge generalization but bus drivers in these parts are mad, completely mad, I have been using them for years and it's always the same, As fast as possible from one destination to the next in the quickest time, this includes death defying feats of overtaking, racing for lights, playing road chicken and the all important stopping to talk to the pretty girl at the weigh station or cafe…..umpppppp just occurred to me maybe that's why the race between each stop, Some journeys in these ere parts are scary……yes I really do mean frightening, heart in your mouth, bargaining with the almighty rides.
Indeed you are reminded regularly by the gory front page headlines and the wreakages resting in ravines evident as you peer from your bus as you travel from place to place, which leads me on……

Newspapers, Booths sit in every town as they do throughout the world selling newspapers and magazines to the news hungry population with our curious minds for what is happening in the world right?

We all know that and that is Ok right? We are news hounds? who reads CNN-BBC ect? Yes we log on but…….here at the booths full of publications standing at child size eye level, stabbings gunshots, bus accidents, drug busts, indeed I had a friend die on the streets of Quito as result of a robbery gone wrong, my last image of him was the local news station filmed as he was put on an ambulance (obviously demised) his arm falling out of an uncovered gurney striking the side of the vehicle enough to break a bone, Upset? Yes, His family…….

Vehicles here can be in a dire state of repair, spongy breaks, bald tires, missing light bulbs, I have got to the point where I choose the bus with the most tire thread before I board.

Road rules, depending on where you are, there are none, it is a free for all, get in, cut in, pull out, scoot in front of, basically if you can get away before the other drivers………well you go for it. Traffic lights are obeyed generally during daylight hours in the big cities but at night the same rules do not apply, often the driver will slow done, glance and see if there is anyone coming then be on their way. Zebra crossings (pedestrian crossings) are merely painted lines on a road, THEY MEAN NOTHING. Pedestrians are by far the most vulnerable on the roads, They in general have no rights, they must cross at their own risk, Cars do not slow done so if you are going to commit to crossing the road make sure you have enough time to do so. Also blaring of horns from cars 10 vehicles back from the changing light is not uncommon.

Having said all this Chile is not like this, Road rules are enforced by the law and drivers are respectful to other road users and pedestrians, in fact Chilean drivers will stop and let you cross, Roads here seem to function well with everyone moving but without the chaos of other Latin American countries.

Being that the Andes Mountain range run the length of what is generally known as the "gringo trail" mudslides in the various rainy seasons are a problem when moving through Latin American countries, Often they are unexpected as mudslides tend to be but often the road conditions are not updated so its there are times when one might find themselves stranded, this hasn't happened me but I have heard numerous stories from fellow travelers who have had these experiences.

Going back to buses there are several "classes" of buses on which you can travel, Ecuador's buses are bad or OK, Peru and Chile have much more comfortable options. It is possible to travel the length and breadth of Latin America for next to nothing providing you are willing to put up with no leg room, bad suspension, No windows open even in the tropics and general discomfort but for a few extra dollars long distance buses are marvelous, On some 180 degree seats in plush leather, waitress service, AC, food, numerous movies ( some buses have individual screens on the back of the seat in front of you) , tight security, pillows and blankets, They are great and you arrive rested and refreshed. A little advice…. if you can afford the few extra dollars traveling this way it is worth every penny, Europe take note.


FOOD AND SOCIALIZING

Where do I start………. My main love of the food in this part of the globe is the variety of non-packaged fresh produce, the local markets are a sight to be seen, its not just the produce available, it's how it's presented, it's the sheer volume, it's the fact that a lot of the time the person or a family member is the person who has grown what you buy and consume. It is the street food that 9 times out of 10 ten is cheap and delicious, mostly everyones favorite……meat on a stick, granted I have difficulty identifying some of the cuts. Also available is empanadas, pockets of pastry normally filled with fresh cheese or meat/chicken and deep fried in oil. Chickens feet BBQed are a kiddies favorite, not for me though the crunchy texture made me squirm.(yes it is probably a good idea to have your digestive system acclimatize to local flavors before you indulge in street food)
The markets in S.A. are truly colorful, community oriented hubs of the local craic, meeting places, eating establishments, these are centers of small-town commerce and community interactions, as in any town throughout the world. What is special in these markets is the sheer variety, indeed the local markets are one of my favorite places to visit. I have been introduced to fruits vegs, grains, pulses, animal parts cereals and truly all manner of foods I have been previously ignorant to, my kitchen finesse has improved greatly as a result.


People here in South America have a huge belief in herbal remedies and fresh herbs, this practice seems to transcend races and social classes, Indigenous peoples have a cure for everything when it comes to herbs, eucalyptus honey, anise for gripe (the cold) Chamomile for bladder/kidney problems as well as sleep problems, valerian for anxiety, coca leaves for altitude sickness and general nausea, Burning Palo Santo to cleanse and purify (also useful to keep pesky mozzies at bay) mimosa hostilla is an anti-inflammatory and mild steroid and the wonderful sangre de drago (blood of the dragon) A sap found in a native tree which is helpful for digestive problems, small cuts and wounds.

There are so many and unfortunately I am not educated in the uses of the majority but they are used here routinely by everyone, although pharmaceuticals are popular, there remains a large part of the populations who either combine the effects of both or believe fully in the effects of natural remedies, In most cases they are cheap or free and there is always someone who will advise you on how to use them.

Herbs and spices are also used routinely for alms, You can buy little bags of mixed herbs/spices toy money, and tiny pictures of saints packed into little packages each one tailored to your wishes, good health, good fortune, good weather ect. Being a tad superstitious I admit to carrying my own little mixture made up for me by a lady in Cusco. This tradition is partly a Catholic thing but its roots go back much further, way before Catholicism was introduced here.

Oh how they dance. It will come as no surprise that Latinos can move, Salsa, Tango, Samba, Hips gyrate with abandon, partners mirror each other in perfect time, It is terribly sexy, there is no age limit and kids have that same rhythm, it seems you are born with it, I can honestly say I have never seen a Latino who can't dance. My attempt at such moves resemble a baby elephant putting on a pair of skinny jeans

My god Music is King! No matter where you go you can hear music………and loud! Latinos love music and especially love it loud and proud, this works when Jimi is blasting from 4 foot tall speakers, less so after 3 continuous days of reggaeton. Tonight's gonna be a good good night, after 25 times gets very old also.

Parties are common, they can be for a birthday, a national holiday, a saints day, school holiday, Monday………..really any excuse and why the hell not, A party normally starts when everyone arrives late(I will get to that later) copious amounts of alcohol are consumed, the women prepare and serve the food, Children go wild, dancing ensues, over the top public displays of affection and general mayhem. All in good fun.

PEOPLE AND FAMILIES

Families are very close here, Most extended families live near each other and many work together, Much of your socializing is done with your family, Meals and get togethers take place often, The elders of the family are given total respect and in many cases have a huge amount of say over family affairs. I have noticed that a lot of men here never really leave their mothers, even when they marry their mothers play the crucial female role in their lives even overshadowing the role of their wives.

Many Latinos stay at home with their parents until they marry and cohabiting is not as common as it is in Europe, I think this may explain the earlier mentioned very public displays of affection, For some couples they really have no where to go for privacy or intimate moments, It seems that everywhere you go couples openly show their affection for one another. Now I may be wrong, perhaps they are just more passionate than us stuffy westerners (sorry speaking for myself here)

Children are little angels and treated accordingly in other words many are spoiled ill mannered little brats. Parents and grandparents dote on the kids chastising them for little, as a result loud hyper energetic mini people skirt about the place like munchkins on speed. Forget about a quiet Sunday lunch in a nice restaurant, Social etiquette does not dictate that children should be kept under control in public situations, they run wild and no one blinks an eyelid.

Women are very sexy creatures, from a very young age girls are taught to be very desirable, hair, make-up and clothes tend to be immaculate, this is true in many countries but produce a camera here and every girl in the shot will stick out her hip, raise her chin and pout, Its every time, no waving wildly or acting the fool for the camera, only sexy and provocative. There are a new breed of Latino men who are married to successful women who do their fair share around the house but they are in the minority, The women tend to be in the kitchen, Household staff are normal and not just for the well off but it's rare to see the menfolk cook and definitely not cleaning. Gender roles tend to be specific and ver towards the traditional.

Latinos are always late. Yes massive generalization but oh so true, When you first come here it is frustrating but you soon get used to it and expect it. This tardiness includes business, government transport and really all aspects of life here, no one seems to care and life continues as normal, deep down i find it very disrespectful when I have an appointment and my associate turns up 2 hours late, I have often wasted whole days waiting on repair men ect.

Queuing does not happen here, banks may well be the exception as the are cordoned off into orderly rows but in stores ect its basically who attracts the attention of the cashier first.

Latinos are football crazy, Even the smallest villages will have a football pitch with regular games, they are pretty good players too.

Goods are mended here, I love this, the microwave blows up you mend it, tvs, cookers, clothes, carpets,computers, you name it they mend it, it is so good for our floundering environment, It's not thrown away and replaced, it's fixed. Men on bicycles with a sharpening block ride through the streets stopping at houses and businesses to sharpen knifes and scissors, It would seem there is a handy Andy to fix all manner of things, wonderful when you mess up your favorite trousers with red wine.

Latinos litter. This I find a little sad, Driving behind a bus or car it's common to see bags of rubbish come flying out the window. It has nothing to do with social classes, you are as likely to see this happening from a fancy SUV as you are from a local chicken bus. I remember when I was a wee girl from the beginning of school we were taught about littering and how it was a no-no and over the years steep fines were given to those who did it and in my case a sharp smack from my mother if you dared be so slovenly, I think maybe here it is a lack of public awareness, maybe if people were taught from a young age it would sink in, A public campaign and more litter bins would be a start, It's an awful shame since the scenery is so beautiful and is often ruined by festering piles of litter on the sides of highways and riverbanks.

There is a wonderful blend of modern life and ancient times in many of the celebrations here, There are numerous festivals many take place in honor of saints and holy ceremonies but somehow they manage to mix this up with old traditions. The music the dance the costumes the rituals all have roots from times way before the Spanish brought their traditions to this land, Many of the Incan traditions are still commonplace and even the most devout catholics accept and practice both ways of life.

RANDOM STUFF

Public toliets are few and far between and tend to be a little gross, bring loo roll folks when traveling, Some stores and villages restaurants will have a loo but these too can be a wee bit basic, Toliet seats are uncommon on public toliets, Bus toliets are my idea of hell.

Taxi drivers are a shrewd lot and many are not the most honest of people, Lima is a nightmare for this.

Roosters have no idea of the time. You can be in bed asleep in the middle of the night in a large city and you will hear one very confused cock crowing, this happens all over the place.

First price is rarely the final price especially in markets, haggling is expected and great fun, modern stores tend to have set prices.

Counterfeiting is HUGE, in fact it can be difficult to buy "real" goods, DVDs, Clothes, perfumes, cigarettes, and much more, (be careful with banknotes, there are loads of false notes, many of them are pretty good fakes)

Public safety is not as strict as I would be used to, During celebrations fireworks are let of everywhere, crowds are generally free to do as they please, public urination is common and not really frowned apron, spitting is common (for some reason really disgusts me) but generally the lack of restrictions can makes public celebrations more fun and intimate.

Pollution in cities is atrocious, buses spew fumes from exhausts and it's not high on the agenda for some governments. This varies from city to city.

Corruption is rife, This happens all over the world but I have never witnessed it on such a public level, Police in Ecuador especially will accept bribes, It means you can't trust the police which is a bit scary if ever you need them.

Pickpockets, In every city, particularly like careless travelers, mind your stuff.

Child seats in cars are not a common sight, It's pretty normal to see wee kids hanging off dashboards peering out the windscreen.

Binmen have an unusual way of alerting the public of their arrival, they play music or ring a bell.

The architecture is stunning, The Spanish put a lot of effort into the cities and although eventually defeated they left behind wonderful relics of their time here though we must not forget what they took while here in the form of numerous lives and valuable resources as well as traditions and beliefs that seemed to be working quite well before their brutal invasion.

The history is fascinating and so diverse, there were and still remain so many different cultures and traditions, One could live here a lifetime and never visit or fully understand the history of this wonderful continent.

Generally the people here are truly wonderful, They are so inviting and happy to share their lives, I have made so many good friends and have had so many wonderful times, Like all places there are nuisances and dangers but in general the good things far outweigh the bad. This is just a few of my thoughts on this part of our globe, A place I have grown to love.



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30th March 2011

travel writer
Hey there, Excellent writing, as i said before you sent your material to publishers/travel mags etc. Hope all is well, ok here. Tommy

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