Cambodia - The Round Up

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The Pink View

I arrived in Cambodia with no pre-conceptions and left glad for that. I suspect that Vietnam suffered in my eyes, for being the focus of months of anticipation whilst we packed our lives in the UK away.

In the hours spent on buses (far fewer than in Vietnam) I wondered how I might choose to sum up this country. What I wanted to say was this: “Cambodia is beautiful”.

A wise (he would say old) man with a twinkle in his eye once said to me something like this of a place a lot closer to home:

“ Yes it is, but don‘t tell everyone, then they will all want to come here”.

That is what I also want to say about Cambodia.

Cambodia has a simplicity which is absent in Vietnam. It has a calmness despite the genocide that happened there and it’s eye has not been turned by the tourist trade to the detriment of the identity of the country and its people.

I can’t say that I always felt safe there, I can’t say that nobody tried to scam us - some probably succeeded. But, for all of that, I felt that we touched humility there, Hotel owners, managers and staff had time to pass the time of day with us, to tell us of their history, their hopes and their dreams.

There were, inevitably, frustrations - hotels that made false advertising into an art form and the dead streets of Phnom Penh during the festival of the Dead but, for me, they were just part of this experience that they call travelling.

I found myself wondering where Cambodia will be in five, ten or fifteen years’ time often whilst we were there and, each time, hoping that it will not be sucked in and later spat out by the beast that they call tourism.

The Blue View

Cambodia is NOT Vietnam. Cambodia is old. Older than I realised and has a history that it is rightfully proud of, and another that it is still getting over. It is getting over it in its own way, quietly, and with a grace that others could learn from.

It has everything to offer, World Class heritage sites, that will astound you and take your breath away. A natural phenomenon in the Tonle Sap river and the way it flows, and life in abundance.
It is this life that makes the place so special.

The lushness of the fields, so green you wouldn’t be surprised if after the sun went down they continued to glow.

The animals, from water buffalo to the smallest insects, they are everywhere you look.

The people - the countries most important facet. Those we met were friendly and dignified, some had been through more than seems fair, yet they still smiled. It is humbling.

It is a country that we probably didn’t see enough of, yet what we did was either truly amazing or truly awful.

Angkor needs no further endorsements, especially not from me, but Siem Reap itself should not be overlooked, as for Phnom Penh…… I wouldn’t apart from enroute to another place, and for as short a time as possible.

Our Top Tips:

Food in Cambodia - I would advise to get on a cooking course early on in your stay here as a great way to understand the cuisine. We did our course near the end of our stay and only then “discovered” the joy of this cuisine having had an awful Cambodian meal in our first day or so that poisoned us to it.

Phnom Penh - It is our considered opinion, which we know won’t be for everyone, that this place should be treated as a cheaper hub for transport than Siem Reap if you must fly but other than that can and should be skipped.

Angkor Wat - This is not one temple, or even one complex, but a collection of stunning places that are truly deserving in their claim to be the 8th wonder of the world. You simply must!
Taxi/ take a car for the outlying temples such as Kbal Spean or the River of a thousand lingas, but the other main sights can easily be done on a Tuk Tuk or even a pushbike, heat dependant.

Bamboo Train - Catch it before its gone, it won’t be there for long.

Shopping - Bartering is the way as it is in most of Asia barter hard and you will get some great deals. We found many things to be cheaper in Vietnam than Cambodia but there is virtually no hard sell in the markets in Siem Reap which was like a breath of fresh air to us.

Transport - The buses are OK, not great, but there is little other option. There aren’t any “planned” stops for the toilet but they will pull over if you need, just be prepared to take a leek on the side of the road in view of the bus!

Leaving - If you fly, you must pay a US$25 departure fee after Check in and before proceedings to departures.

Money - The US$ is king even outside tourist areas. Cash points dispense them.

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Comments

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EXCELLENT
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