Just-right time


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Africa
July 5th 2010
Published: July 5th 2010
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We’re on day 5 --- although by the time I post there’s no telling what day it will be.
It’s been quite a few days since the Internet worked. “Someone’s coming to fix today” is like my kids saying “I’ll clean house.” A group went to a nearby Internet café yesterday only to learn that it’s down everywhere. Eh-yeh (it is what it is). Sometimes the shower works, sometimes it just drips; sometimes the lights are on; sometimes it’s generator power (a hotel perk). Eh-yeh. It’s Africa. I’m getting used to getting used to not being able to order what’s on the menu because it’s not in the kitchen, which pretty much sums up what it must be like to live here.

It sounds like I’m complaining. Trust me I am not. I love it here. I’m just acclimating to a different way of life, and while I’m bitching about the Internet or the shower not having a shower curtain (we got one on day 4) there are children selling items in the middle of traffic and people sleeping on sidewalks (although there are no real sidewalks). There are groups of people crowding around outside TVs and women haggling their wares in crowded marketplaces --- although they seem to be having a good time doing it.

In Accra, there is also A LOT of construction. Oil was discovered not too long ago and the country is abuzz with the promise of its money --- investors are having financial orgasms while the people wonder if this will become another Nigeria (where the people remain jumping over the open-sewer gutters). Traffic is insane --- more so than in Boston or Paris or Tijuana or any of the crazy traffic places I’ve been to --- partially because of the construction, partially because of the street vendors running everywhere with piles of merchandise on their heads, partially because of Ghana’s (although I think it’s an entire Africa thing) culture of driving. I could go on, but I think I’m boring you with these types of details, so here’ my list of what we’ve done so far:
• Day two: We went to Makala (forgive my spelling) Market. It’s what you see on TV shows --- tons of people in tight places selling everything. What you don’t see is the social aspect. Haggling is fun. It’s a way to connect and see what you can get away with. What shocked me the most was that the only place that actually smelled was the meat area --- and yeah you don’t even wanna know what’s in the baskets there.

Ghanaians are very clean (and very beautiful --- I’m hypnotized by them). Whenever I got a whiff of body odor it was from one of us because we were sweating away any mosquitoes that might come our way --- who needs deet? I bought some beautiful fabric and have a few outfits being made from it. I can’t wait to see how they come out. We also went to the art market, but I didn’t like it there. As soon as we tourists stepped out of the bus the hustle was on. I didn’t want to shop anymore, but others did, and, well, it became one big feeding frenzy (I still haven’t decided who the sharks were --- we or the vendors).

• Day three: the beginning of our week’s worth of Twi lessons. Basically, I’m a complete Twi idiot. Learning the stories that connect to the language is really cool (it’s a very metaphorical language), but my tongue is too stubborn to move Twiish. Wish I could remember what else we did that day --- oh I think we visited the University of Ghana’s bookstore.
• Day four: We drove around and saw some Ghanaian hot spots --- President’s house, the black star, etc., and we did some academic stuff, but the highlight was going to a bar to watch the big game. OH MY GOD! Lemme tell you that brought a whole new meaning to block party. You would not believe --- music, food, dancing in the streets, on the rooftops. Vevuzulas blaring everywhere (sorry kids I have not yet managed to get my hands on one). And that’s before the team made its goal.

Our guide, who is always looking out for our safety, booked us a VIP room in a three-story sports bar. Basically, it put us in the top room with a bunch of TVs and two other guys. It was more comfortable and had great service, but three of us decided that’s not what we wanted, so we went to the lower floor to sit with the locals. The place was packed (and, okay, in this room there was a lot of BO), so we sat on the floor. Someone got chairs for me and the other girl, and everyone around us was so welcoming and happy that we joined them. When Ghana got its goal, the place erupted. Some guy picked me up and then threw me to another guy. There were so many people jumping and yelling I bet I could’ve been thrown around the entire room and never touch ground.

During half time we went out on the streets and danced with everyone, and I mean everyone. Then it was back into the bar to get serious and watch the game. Not one man in the section we sat in drank a beer during the game --- not a single beer. I didn’t realize until later that the bar’s 2 cedi (which is under $2) cover charge was pretty much the bulk of its profit that night. Can you imagine a bar letting that many people in JUST TO WATCH A SOCCER GAME? Knowing they won’t buy beer

Then came Ghana’s almost second goal, but it became a penalty shot. The place erupted again (I even got a kiss on the cheek), but when the guy missed the goal, it went dead silent. And then I heard some Twi words our instructor didn’t teach us, but I somehow sense I know what they mean.

Here’s the thing, though. Once the game was over, people were so incredibly respectful. Yeah some shoved furniture and hit the walls, but they quickly got out of it. While we were leaving the bar, I kid you not, people actually looked at us and said, “We’re sorry from Ghana.” Complete strangers thanked us for supporting their team. In LA there would’ve been riots, but not here. Ey-eh.

That said the game has been playing on the TV ever since (and I’m now up to day 7). And there’s been an announcement that anyone who wants to cheer the team home when they land this weekend will get a free bus ride to the airport.

There’s so much more to write, but I’m pooped. I have tons of photos to show you, but I guess all of you will also have to get used to Africa’s “just right” time --- meaning it’ll happen when it happens.

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6th July 2010

HAve Fun AND ENJoy
This is right up your alley!
8th July 2010

woo-hoo
Im so glad you are imersing yourself in the real stuff! I am picturing your comrades when the celebrating and people-throwing went on . . . Thanks for being detailed -- I can picture it which is so cool.
9th July 2010

so glad you're enjoying posts
thanks Jules and Michelle for your kind words. There isn't a whole lot of down time, so not much time to edit. When I get back home I'm sure I'll take a look at updates and cringe at all my mistakes. I'm getting along great with my team as well. We had one night of drinking rum by the pool --- the twi lesson the next morning was quite painful. but I'll be darned if we weren't speaking it fluently the night before!
9th July 2010

so glad you're enjoying posts
thanks Jules and Michelle for your kind words. There isn't a whole lot of down time, so not much time to edit. When I get back home I'm sure I'll take a look at updates and cringe at all my mistakes. I'm getting along great with my team as well. We had one night of drinking rum by the pool --- the twi lesson the next morning was quite painful. but I'll be darned if we weren't speaking it fluently the night before!
28th July 2010

twi
One trick to learning is abandon all your precepts about sound, inflections, intonations, etc - especially coming from English. Then LISTEN to how twi words are pronounced. If you're in the central region, or far west of Accra and are only exposed to fanti, then you'll have a really tough time. but with other dialects (Akuapem, Kwahu, Asante, etc). Try to break down words in your head, or even on paper. Next, look for sounds in the English language that most mimic each broken down segment of whichever word you have in your head. Then piece them together after practicing a few times. Ghanaians also LOVE when you make an honest attempt to learn our languages. We might laugh at your initial attempts, but your effort melts our hearts. So try using twi, or Ga, or whichever you're exposed to. Don't worry about butchering the language. You'll always find someone willing to help you learn.
29th July 2010

my poor tongue and their poor ears
Twi is such a different language than the ones I know. Our teacher gave us handouts to look at words, and sometimes I'd throw in English sounds, sometimes German, sometimes French or Spanish (and I don't even know those languages). But, I managed to get a few phrases down pat. And, I absolutely LOVED practicing at the market. Any time I said Mi Pawo Cho (forgive my spellig, I don't have handout nearby), or Mache or Wo hot de sein (dear God my spelling is way, way off), Medasse or Yedanasse, a crowd would cheer and start teaching me new things. My favorite, of course, was Bakoo and Medasse Pa. I loved saying it, partly because they're fun to say, but mostly because of how everyone lit up when I did. I miss Ghana (came home a few days ago), but I plan on coming back. If I do I vow to learn much, much more of the language.

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