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Published: June 10th 2010
Waking up by the murmuring stream was a relaxing way to start the day and indeed, set the tone for the morning. There was no hurry to pack up as we were not due at Warren's uncle's until the afternoon, so we took the opportunity to have a bit of a read before heading off.
The route back to the main road was short so we were soon on our way. There really is not a lot happening between our campsite and Wellington, but we paid our respects to a couple of places along the road, the first being the town of Parapararaumu (what a mouthful!). After a brief wander around the small, square town centre we drove in the direction of the beach, hoping for a nice spot for a mid -morning coffee: we were successful, finding a bench on the edge of the woodland that surrounded the sand dunes overlooking both the golden beach and the island of Kapiti, a nature reserve. Warren went back to the van for supplies and we relaxed in the sun for half an hour before attempting to find our way back to the main road via a coastal route. I say 'attempted'
as after 20 minutes of taking random residential roads in what we thought to be the right direction, we seemed to get no further south - a fact that made us give up on our scenic route and continue on the main road instead.
A little way down the road we paused again, this time at a place recommended by our guide book for free samples of cheese, ice-cream and other delicacies as well as some touristy shops. It was easy to see though that in the summer the place would have been a heaving tourist trap but, alas, visiting in the low season meant that all but one shop was open (even the cafe was shut!) and the only freebie was a small piece of cheese in a rather expensive 'speciality' shop! This made for a very brief visit - but cheap :-)
We arrived at Warren's uncle's house mid afternoon. The drive was uneventful until we hit just north of Porirua when the road hugged the mountainside and then the hills parted to reveal a beautiful inlet on one side, and the sea on the other. The area of Whitby is gorgeous, with the houses being
built onto the hillside overlooking both inlet and the hills that are opposite, themselves being reflected in the water. As a commuter town for the city of Wellington, it sees a fair amount of traffic in comparison to areas further north but this did not detract from the lovely (if not a little hair-raising at times) roadway that ran literally alongside the inlet. There were some roadworks being carried out on the roundabout at the bottom of David's road while we were there which held things up a little but we found the house without problem (although I must admit I almost drove past it!).
The house has been designed in a mock-tudor style with expanses of dark wood beams contrasting with white panelling giving a very grand effect. We pulled up and into the house (we had the door code so no breaking and entering required) liking immediate the split levels that divided living space, bedrooms and second lounge. We brought in only those things we needed - a very strange feeling semi-unpacking the van after 3 weeks - and soon found where we were to stay after reading a handy note left by Moana, David's wife. It
was a great experience being in a house again: sitting in a sofa, using a kitchen and having a shower that we did not have to pay for!
The next couple of hours were spent relaxing before David came home and the conversation got going. David showed off his culinary skills by preparing us dinner (our first pies in NZ) and we finally met Moana when she arrived home later after a long day at work. We spent a very pleasant evening chatting and drinking wine (excellent hosts!) but had to beg our leave fairly early as our body clocks were still on 'van time' and wanted sleep - despite it being only 10pm! Thankfully this was a time we extended on subsequent nights, allowing us to feel less old and sad!
We awoke the next morning after a very restful night and made ourselves some breakfast before deciding what to do with our day. As it was already mid morning before we were ready to do anything we decided to keep it local and journey into Porirua centre, about 10 minutes drive away. The city of Porirua is one of the 3 main towns that surround Wellington
and is large in its own right, having full amenities and some nice places to visit as a tourist. Moana's daughter Katrina hinted that she would like to come with us, so we all squeezed into the front of the van (the first time the middle front seat had been used - not meant for 3 adults I think!) and headed off.
After negotiating the main centre we found a parking place by the i-site and ventured there first before walking trough the remainder of the open section of the shopping centre. Katrina wanted to see her mum in the council offices and, despite our reluctance at disturbing Moana at work, we accompanied her there before entering the PATAKA museum. This centre has a variety of exhibits, with a special one on Afghanistan and the public's relationship with the war etc. It was quite interesting and after a brief look at the rest of the place we bought some chips for lunch before heading home to eat them (and discovering Katrina's love of tomato ketchup!).
The wundelust had not left us for the day so we jumped back in the van and returned to town, this time taking
in the indoor shopping mall - in which we found a 'K-Mart' - and, after dismissing the 'Colonial Knob Walkway' as possibly being a little two energetic for an afternoon stroll, drove across the little peninsular to another bay. The viewpoint we picked was pretty and proved to be an excellent spot for a cup of tea and a biscuit (yes, I know how middle aged that sounds but it is a small comfort we have grown to love in our little van!).
The evening was spent enjoying the simple things in life: electricity on demand; lighting after 6 pm; tv and internet. We planned our adventures for the next day and, after a glass or two of the good stuff with our lovely hosts, headed to bed.
An earlier than normal start was needed the following day as we wanted to drive into Wellington, the capital city of New Zealand. With a population of only 400,000 (and the second largest in the country) Wellington is small compared to other major cities, but this very much adds to its charm, allowing it to remain modern yet compact: a vast change from the sprawling places in SEA.
As
parking in the centre is metered/restricted/expensive, we had planned to park at the carpark of an arena on the outskirts of the city - still within walking distance of the centre. However, our best laid plans were dashed as, pulling up to the entrance gate, a sign stated - almost mockingly - “Closed due to event”. Great. Turning back onto the main quayside road (thankfully there is really not that much traffic) we began the long search for somewhere else that was not going to break the bank. Half an hour later the nightmare was brought to a close after abandoning several other 'possibilities' (machines that only take credit cards and give no instructions etc.) and with the discovery of an 'all day' area for the princely sum of $12.
Once we had got over the shock of having to part with our hard earned cash, we had a very pleasant stroll along the quayside, past several 'dock' areas and along the re-vamped walkway dotted with quotations from famous Kiwis, often embedded in rocks or walls. From here you could see the whole harbour and surrounding neighbourhoods, al bathed in the glow of the sun - gorgeous.
Our
destination for the morning was 'Te Papa', the national museum with a good reputation. It is well earned. The place has an imposing presence over the quayside, being one of the most modern and striking buildings, and has inside a wide variety of exhibitions that are both fun and accessible for all. Our favourite sections were the geological section with its interactivity and a montage of life stories from residents all over the country, explaining what the land means to them. The feature on the 'Colossal Squid' however was a little disappointing, with the specimen having deteriorated in quality since its capture and appearing decidedly smaller and more 'flaky' than the almost red splendour it had when alive. Impressive I suppose, none the less.
After a morning of being educated, our stomachs were rumbling so we indulged in a venison pie and coffee from the museum cafe - yummy! Our hunger satisfied (at least fro now) we wandered into the CBD, first visiting the 'Film Archives' (a place where you can watch - for free - any media product from NZ) trying - in vain - to see where David worked (near the reverse bungy) and then wandering around
the shops. It really is welcoming place with a great atmosphere - not intimidating or arrogant.
Feeling relaxed, we took the funicular up to the botanical gardens. The gardens themselves cling to the side of the hills that surround the harbour and provide beautiful walkways - albeit with a nice descent/climb! There was a route that returned to the city centre which we took, leading downhill past a 'treehouse' and some lovely manicured gardens before exiting into the old Jewish cemetery. We walked beside the government buildings, including the one called the 'beehive, and decided that as we were back by the quayside, we may as well purchase our ferry tickets for the following week to avoid having to come back into the city (and repeat parking horrors) at a later date.
Warren and I returned to the house late afternoon to get ready for our evening out. Warren's uncle and aunt were kindly taking us into town for a drink and a meal - a belated celebration of our engagement and Warren's birthday. After picking up Moana's son Harry from the train station (and listening to Muse in the car) we met up with David and his
work colleagues in a very chilled bar before leaving for the Italian restaurant. Our meal was gorgeous and we felt both full and a little tipsy by the time we returned home and climbed into bed that night!
Not having suffered from the night before (thankfully) we woke in good time to spend a vast portion of the day reading our South America guide and researching our onward travels. The day was broken up by a visit to Porirua to buy supplies for the evening's dinner which we had volunteered to cook. Dinner went well, with our chicken version of our red prawn and mango curry going down a treat, and we completed the evening with a film. An amusing point was when all of us suffered a bout of amnesia when it can to the leading actor's name - who knew the eldest in the room would be the first to remember! Shame on us youngsters! (sorry Anthony Hopkins...)
David and Moana belong to a walking group who they join every Sunday morning for a 'tramp' somewhere in the local vicinity. We had been invited to join them and, as we had been feeling a little lethargic
of late having not done any hikes, we accepted. Up and out by 8am, we drove to Eastbourne, a town on the eastern side of Wellington and the Hutt valley (and where Moana's son lives). It was a rather overcast day, but the group were in good spirits and were not going to let the possibility of a little rain stop them.
The 'Butterfly track' was a steepish ascent through some woodland but, on a clear day, would have given great views over the surrounding land and sea. Down into the valley provided more moss covered trees and a few puddles, then it was up to the crest again before back to the car. The route was fun and it was enlightening to talk to all the other trampers, some of whom were Brits and others who had been to places we were heading. The best part were the antics of the young dog 'Billie' who had more energy than the whole group put together! All in all - a good hike.
The event was rounded off by the 'traditional' visit to a cafe for breakfast (although it was lunch by this time). Our paninis were very nice
- yummy chutney - and the hot chocolate was very much appreciated! The afternoon was much more relaxed, with the two of us claiming the sofa and internet for more planning/research before being treated to a delicious Malaysian curry cooked by Moana.
Although the next day was Monday, both Moana and David had taken time off of work to show us around some of the surrounding area - specifically the Wairarapa region. With David driving, we headed for our first destination: Cape Palliser. The cape is a seal colony and one of the most isolated and largest in the country, both facts being blatantly obvious as we approached along a cliff-hugging, gravel roadway and by the seals lying almost up to the road! After a couple of slightly nervy photos (they can move fast when they want to...) we continued along the road to the lighthouse.
This point is the most southerly point on the North island and the coastline is treacherous - scary volcanic rock formations are visible just beneath the waves. The modest lighthouse is mounted halfway up the cliff, atop a rocky outcrop reached by over 200 steps. Once at the top (base of the
lighthouse) you are given great views over the surrounding bays and it was a great place to sit in the sun for 20 minutes! On our return to the car we met a Kiwi couple in a campervan who were seeing the sights of the North island (south part) in a week - respect!
After a brief stop at the 'Pinnacles' (the short walk would take too long is we wanted to make the lunch service) we headed back along the coast to Lake Ferry, where we had some rather tasty fish and chips - accompanied by a beer - in the sunshine at the hotel. A brief walk on the beach, then it was off to Martinborough to sample some of the fine wines on offer in the numerous vineyards there! Who says we are alcoholics? We just appreciate fine wine!
The last stop on our grand tour was Greytown which, despite the dismal name, was very picturesque what with its tree lines streets and quaint 'old fashioned' fronted buildings. Moana introduce us to a independent chocolate shop (bad influence!) where we had to buy some sea salt chocolate - sounds strange but is very tasty. Being
spoilt rotten again, we were treated to tea at an English Tea Room - made us feel almost homesick! After all the fine food and drink it was all we could do to eat the wonderful dinner prepared by Moana that evening. A very fine day - thanks guys!
As we were still not fully prepared for the next leg of our journey - despite previous days planning - we spent our last day immersed in the books again. In the afternoon we had a walk around the inlet, taking in the sun as it worked its magic on the hills and water. We both decided we very much liked the place and would be sad to leave, but that we had had an excellent time staying with David and Moana. The evening was enjoyable and the next morning we got up early so that we could say goodbye to the two of them before they left for work - a sad parting.
Our own morning was quite rushed as we completed a couple of tasks on the internet before leaving the house and visiting Pack 'n' Save for supplies to cover us over the first few days
on the South Island. The drive to the ferry terminal was a little fraught, as we were unsure if the time of 12pm was the check-in time or boarding time....thankfully it was the former, but we did arrive with 15mins to spare. We joined one of the parking lanes ready to board the ferry and ate lunch while the friendly company workers cleaned our windows for us - great service! At around 12:30pm we made our way onto the ferry and left the van, finding a nice indoor seat from which we could view the city as we departed - in the comfort of the warmth! As the city skyline became more distant, we were quite sorry to leave - more so than other places we had visited - but also excited to be heading for the South: a beautiful landscape waiting to be explored.
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russell
non-member comment
That girls got talent
Not sure what you are saying here Stacey "Billie' who had more energy than the whole group put together!" You really can't compare us all to Uncle David You guys sound like you are having a fun time and I reckon you would make a good Travel Writer Stacey. That girls got talent