Enduring the "Rocket to the Rooftop of the World"

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At the Beginning

"Wo Pu Tong." Means I don't understand (or something like that). My friend Yla often uttered this whenever it became too hard to understand what the locals were saying. Me? "I don't have a clue what he just said." The language barrier is so thick that it hindered us from maximizing our sojourn in Shanghai.

First stop: Shanghai. This is where we boarded the Qinghai-Tibet Train going to Lhasa, capital of Tibet Autonomous Region. The fantastic urban planning, road design, and efficient and well-developed railway system are difficult not to notice. Our local city engineers and chief executives could learn a lot from Shanghai urban planners. Manila's traffic problems would be a thing of the past if only we have similarly well-designed structures.

The cool weather is a welcome respite from Manila's sweltering heat. Bikes and motorbikes neatly line the streets. The small market near our hostel is a soiree of senses. Food, tea of all sorts and color, pastries and variety of dough dishes, fish, meat, seaweeds, plants, clothes abound.

Not wanting to leave anything to chance, we went early to Shanghai Railway Station. It bustled with people going to various parts of China. Security within the station is real tight; its "checking in" process is similar to that of an airport.

The train travel duration is approximately 51 hours (actual travel time about 53 hours). We only bought little food thinking that there is a "canteen" in the train. I did not seriously take the warning flashed by the sight of other passengers with tons of food. Well, just "charge it to experience", as in many parts of this journey.

Inside the Sky Train

Boarding time, finally. Chaos dominated. Passengers madly rushed to the train. We settled in one of the carriages after the cabin attendant had shown us to our "cabin and bunk". And then the surprise. The true cabin occupants arrived and evicted us. We sped through 12 carriages, scared that we might get left behind. I wish they also printed the instructions in English! The cabin is cramped (about 1.25x2.25x2.25 meters) and 6 people are to sleep in the 2 three-layered bunk beds within it. It is complete with lavatories, toilets (which could be better if cleaner), oxygen outlets, and source of hot drinking water.

Being the "world's highest railway" rising up to over 5,072 meters above sea level (MASL) across the Tibetan Plateau, I could not help but agree that it is indeed an engineering marvel. Fifty percent (50%) of the 1,956 km railway has been set on permafrost. Carriages are pressurized and pumped with oxygen (upon reaching Golmud at 2,809 MASL). It passes by China's largest lake, the Qinghai Lake.

More than 80% of the track is at altitude of >3,962 MASL. We started taking Acetazolamide every 12 hours to hasten our acclimatization to the very high altitude we are cruising, although it would not entirely prevent the development of altitude sickness symptoms. Acute Mountain Sickness is not to something that could taken lightly. Numbness and neuropathies developed in my upper arms and face as part of the drug's side effects. Knowing all other possible side effects, Paranoia became one of my constant companions.

Our bunkmates included 2 nice old Chinese couples. Being the only English-speaking foreigners in our carriage on our first train day proved to be challenging. With her very useful basic Mandarin, Yla transformed into Ms. Friendship-Philippines. We met a gentleman who teaches Philosophy in Beijing University and could communicate in English, as well as a newspaper photographer and his wife. Delight soon replaced the sadness from their departure when English-speaking Singaporean tourists had boarded the train at Xining Station (2,275 MASL), the last station where passengers could get in and out of the carrier. We met more interesting people in the train.

The sight of Permafrost Tundra saturated us on our second train day. It snowed in some areas. The vast expanse of towering mountain ranges of permafrost, serene lakes and marshes, and sight of contented wild sheep and Tibetan antelopes, while being serenaded by Chinese music waxed me poetic. The World is simply beautiful. It really is up to us ephemeral beings to keep it as such so that the rest of the world and the next generation could also get the chance to experience and marvel at its beauty.

Attack of Acute Mountain Sickness

Many passengers developed signs and symptoms of Altitude Sickness on our 2nd train day, around 3,500-4,000 MASL. A number of them hooked themselves to the oxygen. I passed by a nearby cabin and saw an older woman vomiting and seemingly weak. With my physician instincts, I inquired about her condition. Seeing her situation, I suggested to her companions that they hook her to the oxygen immediately. Since the oxygen outlets in our cabin were not working, Yla and I helped look for the carriage with working oxygen outlet.

At around 4,700+ MASL, my head started to ache, felt lightheaded, got tired easily, developed palpitations (heart rate shoot up to 160 beats per minute). Acetazolamide did not help much. I got concerned on how I would fare once we get to the highest altitude of 5,072. Tried to calm myself and think positive thoughts. I knew that if I make it past that altitude, then everything would be all right at the Everest Base Camp. With little improvement from rest, Yla and I decided to hook ourselves to oxygen. I felt better after an hour of oxygen (though symptoms returned once I was off the gas).

On our way back, the companion of that old lady approached me, asked for my name, and thanked me. They asked us to join them but politely declined the offer since we would be going to Nepal. They gave me 2 canisters of tea. I did not even do anything. I was really touched c",).

Nighttime came and we finally arrived at Lhasa station. Farewell to all acquaintances was tinged with hope of bumping into one another in the morning. The excitement in everyone was palpable.

Each of us eagerly awaited for the adventure that is Tibet.

Other (mis)Adventures:

• Last-minute camera woes and emergency purchase on the way to the airport
  
• Nearly missed plane to Shanghai thanks to NAIA 3 Forex
  
• Amazing Race-like run to the plane bound for Shanghai (my sandals unhooked, my bag wide open; in haste, dropped my all my travel documents at the boarding gate)
  
• Nearly missed the airport midnight bus going to Hongquiao (since bus was full, we stood for a great length of time just so we could go to our destination)
  
• Failure to change currencies (really, really caused me A LOT of problems over the next few days)
  
• Sprained my right knee while on the bus as I turned around
  

Backpacker Notes:

* There are airport buses at Pudong International Airport that could take you to different destinations at a much, much lower price compared to taxis. Don't forget to check the schedule as they leave on time.
* The Blue Mountain Hongquiao Hostel is highly recommended although is about 1.5 hours away from Pudong International Airport. The staff members are very helpful and are at least able to communicate in English. The room, bed, sheets, and bathroom are clean. Guests are free to use the computer (with Wi-Fi) and books in the lounge.
* Foreign tourists who wish to travel to Tibet should have the trip arranged by a local agency in China, as required by the law. Two types of permits are needed: (1) Tibet Travel Permit, which is required to enter Tibet and for purchase of train and bus tickets; and (2) Alien Permit, which is required if traveling outside of Lhasa. Processing of these permits is usually included in the travel package offered by agencies. More information are available on this site: . Police authorities actually check the Tibet Travel Permit.
* Chinese Visa is required to get a Tibet Travel Permit.
* Qinghai-Tibet train tickets often become available a few days before the scheduled trip. These tickets are hot commodities so better reserve tickets weeks before your travel (with additional reservation fee). The travel agency could be requested to reserve and purchase these tickets. Train fares and schedule are available here: .

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Photos

sweets galore
being sold at a market in Shanghai

our hard sleeper cabin
A bit cramped. Notice that each side has 3 levels of sleeping areas.

at Golmud
highest point is at Tanggula Pass (5,072 meters above sea level)

Altimeter showing how high we were
Elevation reached up to over 5,000 meters above sea level

oxygen junkies
Despite taking Acetazolamide to hasten acclimatization. Acute Mountain Sickness still hit me. I had headaches, lightheadedness, loss of appetite, palpitations, and fast heart rate. An hour of oxygen helped relieve the symptoms.

motorcycles and bicycles
popular means of transportation of many people in Shanghai

sweets galore
sold at the market

killing time
while waiting for the T16 train to Lhasa

train ticket
(photo courtesy of Yla Estrelon)

Comments

[Ritz]

What an adventure!!!

[Ritz]

What an adventure! You should have this published in a travel magazine! :-)

[deedee]

super cool!

[alec]

panalo
di ko kakayanin yan!!! hahaha... galing mo... kahit na gaano ka ka-organized, minsan talaga, wiwindangin ka ng mundo... i love your blog... :-)

[Marvin]

wala na ikaw na.... adventure sya tlga.

[D MJ Binkley]

We love train travel
But you have not made this one sound so appealing...... our meds worked for the altitude while we were in Nepal and in Peru. Sounds like you had to suffer with several symptoms. With travel anything can happen and that is what makes it interesting.