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Published: April 9th 2010
April 4th:
Today, Easter Sunday, we crossed the Continental Divide to Panama’s Caribbean coast. We both agree that today’s drive was absolutely the most beautiful of our entire Central American trip. We drove thru cloud forests and rain forests that surpassed any that we saw in Costa Rica. The highway was lined with tropical plants, many of them in bloom, and with wild impatiens.
We passed more than a dozen water falls and several quaint little villages of stilted thatched cottages. At one village where we stopped to take zoomed photos of a cottage from the road, we attracted the attention of a couple of kids. The way they came running and screaming, we clearly did not have the impression that they wanted to invite us in for coffee.
We always try to be discreet when taking pictures because we’re sure that it is offensive to have one’s picture taken or home photographed by tourists but obviously they somehow manage to swallow their pride when National Geographic comes calling.
We arrived at Almirante too late to catch the ferry to Bocas del Toro so spent the night at a one of Almirante’s two hotels. When we checked
into Hotel Alhambra we told the clerk about Furgie and he said there was no problem with having a pet in the room so we booked for two nights. The room was adequate and only $27.50.
April 5th:
However, as we were leaving to catch the 8:00 a.m. ferry this morning the owner came out to tell us that pets were not welcome but he would honor our reservation. We thanked him and caught the ferry to Bocas.
On the ferry, we had an opportunity to spend over an hour visiting with a Canadian doctor who had immigrated to British Columbia from South Africa. As South Africa is very high on my list of future vacation destinations and since the Canadian vs. American health care system is much in the news, we had an enjoyable conversation. Long story short - the good doctor had nothing but praise for the Canadian health care system and disputed all of the negative stories we’ve heard. He believes that overall, Canadians are pleased with their health care system and are at least as satisfied as Americans on Medicare are - in other words - it works. He told us that the
American claims that Canadian doctors flee to the U.S. is also untrue.
Our doctor friend also reaffirmed my reasons for wanting to visit South Africa and made several suggestions.
I fell in love with Bocas del Toro and hope to come back and spend more time here. While I hate to publicize such a beautiful place, obviously the secret is out because there are quite a few hotels advertising daily, weekly and monthly occupancy. After spending an enjoyable morning walking the streets we caught a water taxi back to Almirante to collect Furgie and return to Costa Rica.
Acres of banana plantations lined the road from Almirante, Panama to the Costa Rican border. We passed several Chiquita packing plants with stacks of the familiar packing boxes.
It has been noted by tour books that the roads leading into and out of most Latin American countries are those country’s worst. Well, today took the cake. In order to exit Panama we had to climb onto a one lane gravel road and give way to five oncoming trucks from Costa Rica before we could exit Panama. As they passed, each driver held up fingers to indicate how many
trucks were behind him.
After we cleared Panamanian customs, we then had to cross a rickety converted railroad bridge built in 1908 to enter Costa Rica. This border crossing took the typical two and half hours. Getting out of Panama was a piece of cake but because the only official who could authorize Rambo’s Costa Rican reentry was at lunch we had to cool our heals for over an hour before we could begin the in-processing. Our Panamanian exit was free and it only cost $15.40 to reenter Costa Rica. They didn’t see Furgie so we didn’t mention her.
Ray was amused by a sign in their office that declared in four languages that denigrating officials could result in prison terms from one month to two years. Could anyone wonder why travelers could express exasperation with Latin American bureaucracy!
Fortunately, we had a short day planned. We wanted to spend the night in Manzanillo, one of Costa Rica’s most Bohemian communities. The village is considered to be Costa Rica’s premier snorkeling site.
We checked into one of Maxi’s rooms ($50.00 for two comfortable beds) then had dinner in his restaurant which is noted for its generous
portions. We were not disappointed. I ordered a fish filet. I must have gotten the whole fish, minus the head and bones, plus more sides than I could possibly eat.
April 6th:
After coffee this morning we trekked down the beach to check out the snorkeling opportunities. Locals advised us on the best beach snorkeling sites without having to hire a tour boat. We did see many pretty fish but the current was working against us.
We then drove north to Cahuita, Costa Rica’s number two snorkeling site. Luckily, Ray noticed the Cahuita National Park Hotel just feet from the Caribbean. For just $45.00 a night we slept to the sound of waves crashing below. They were o.k. with Furgie - thot she was very cute - so we decided to spend two days there. Although Cahuita is a tourist destination, it is so laid back it doesn't seem touristy. Most of the residents are Garifuna and Rastafarians.
Although our hotel sits at the entrance to one of Costa Rica's national parks, we didn't bother walking thru it. Entry is free and the park is obviously popular with the tour bus crowd but we chose to
Thatched roof village on the way to the Caribbean coast.
We think it might be protected because a man approached us as we stopped and took the photo. I wish we’d stayed and asked him about the place.walk along the beach instead.
After an hour of walking the beach we cleaned up and drove to a nearby cocoa plantation. We declined the full $25.00 tour and opted to wander the grounds by ourselves for the reduced price of $15.00. The grounds have a large collection of medicinal and ornamental plants but we were only interested in cocoa growing, harvest and production. One of the guides, Elmer offered do the chocolate presentation himself.
We learned that cocoa is not native to Costa Rica. It is primarily grown in Ecuador, Bolivia and Columbia. Costa Rica did have a thriving cocoa growing agriculture until the 1960s when a disease wiped out most of the trees. Cocoa is still grown in Costa Rica’s mountainous areas but Elmer told us that most of the chocolate we Americans eat comes from South America.
Cocoa is grown much like coffee except the beans are grown inside a squash like gourd. Both plants need four years to mature. Beans from both must be dried, roasted and ground after harvest before they are useful.
We had the opportunity to suck on the tasty seeds as they are grown inside the gourd then
Elmer demonstrated the process from roasting, grinding and making edible chocolate by adding raw sugar combined with vanilla, powdered milk and enough water to make the mixture kneedable. When Elmer was satisfied with the consistency, he patted it into a small circle and cut it into brownie like squares for us to sample.
Elmer told us that he had moved here from an indigenous village in Panama with his wife ten years ago. Their home in Panama is very remote. The only way to reach his village is by a three hour boat ride plus a one hour walk. Villagers survive by subsistence farming, eating mostly bananas and vegetables. They may eat meat a couple times a week. Elmer and his wife came to Costa Rica to work and earn money but hope to return to their homeland soon. When they return, they will give up all of the comforts of modern life. They had one child when they came here. They have since had another. Neither of the kids speaks their indigenous language. Elmer said he taught himself English by working with a dictionary and watching American TV here in Costa Rica. Village children in his homeland are
only required to attend school thru the sixth grade though I believe Elmer said attended school for twelve years.
We had several enjoyable meals in Cahuita. At Miss Edith’s, after an interminable wait, I had a wonderful fish dinner cooked in coconut milk. Ray’s chicken dinner was good but unremarkable. Lonely Planet advised us to try rondon soup. It was delicious. I found the recipe on the web courtesy of Maxi’s where we had eaten the other night in Manzanillo. We hope you enjoy the story behind the soup. As most of my soups are created in somewhat this way - by what I have on hand - so I really look forward to recreating this yummy soup when I get home. Here is the recipe: http://www.tropicalreservations-cr.com/b/puerto-viejo-area-information/caribbean-recipes/rondon-soup-recipe-and-history/?menuno=area
I know you guys must think that I am obsessed with food - well I am. I think that eating regional foods is one of the great benefits of traveling.
Friday, April 9th
We returned to Belen Trailer Park yesterday afternoon. John's brother and family had just left. We were sorry we didn't get to meet them but we could not have done the loop any faster without missing
out on something.
John and Johnette sold their trailer to our landlord and landlady here at the park. They will stay in hotels all the way home. We expect to move pretty fast. We both only have until the 20th to be out of Central America as that is the date our car insurance policies elapse.
This will probably be my last blog until we get home and can summarize the mileage, fuel costs, etc.
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Eric
non-member comment
I enjoyed your San Jose post. I have always wanted to go to there. My blog is looking for travel photos, stories, accommodation reviews, and food reviews. If you have the time and have some to share, email us at dirtyhippiesblog@gmail.com or check us out at dirty-hippies.blogspot.com Continued fun on your travels, Eric