Advertisement
Published: April 9th 2010
My first views of La Paz were quite astonishing, but I’ll save the description of that for the next blog. My bus wound down into the canyon the city is situated in and after disembarking I wasted no time to organise my foray into the Amazon. Bolivia has a wonderfully accessible Amazon Basin that is markedly cheaper to access than in any other country that the Amazon is sprawled across.
I teamed up again with the group I had travelled across the South West Circuit with and organised a trip that consisted of 3 days in the Pampas and 2 days in the jungle. The Pampas are a huge area of wetlands, a network of waterways and varied vegetation that are a haven for wildlife. The trip would combine a mixture of trekking and animal spotting, all immersed within the steamy, sticky confines of the Amazon Basin.
Rurrenabaque is the gateway to the Amazon Basin and I opted to fly here instead of catching the nightmare 18 hour bus. Time is certainly of the essence at this stage of my trip and the flight helped matters here by being 17 hours and 20 minutes shorter than the bus journey.
The flight I had organised was early, taking off at 6.15am which required a 4am start. I arrived at the airport and checked in on time though, curious of the distinctly small number of people on the flight.
It made sense when I saw the plane - a tiny 16-seater. I boarded the plane and was sitting just a few feet from the pilots whose cockpit and controls were all visible. The plane take off was also fun. Because of the La Paz’s altitude (over 4,000 metres above sea level at El Alto airport) making its airport the world’s highest, there are various complications for aircraft at take off because of the thinness of the air. Therefore so that our plane could actually take off in the runway space available it actually began its rapid acceleration as it rounded the corner to the runway!
The flight to Rurrenabaque itself was stunning. Bolivia’s topography is incredibly diverse and the soaring peaks of the Andes soon fell rapidly away as the ground beneath us went from 4,000 metres to 200 or so within 40 minutes. This rapid descent heralded stunning views. At first we were flying through enormous snow capped
mountains and past glacial lakes before the jungle came into view. The varied, huge plateau of green vegetation rolled on endlessly and was broken up only by brown rivers snaking through the foliage.
Our plane landed, bumping down Rurrenabaques muddy and grassy runway before coming to a rapid halt. The door opened and the humidity hit me immediately. The air was thick and hot and a complete contrast to the last few weeks. I had been at altitude for some time now and had adjusted to the thin air that the most populated parts of Bolivia are situated in. Sweat formed on my brow instantly here though and combined with the pungent smell of vegetation that was being seared off the trees by the morning sun. The sun had recently risen and the steamy haze it created across the treetops was fabulous to see.
The Rurrenabaque airport was excellent. The main terminal was a tiny building and our bags moved around 6 feet before they had to be reclaimed. We caught a jeep into town to our tour organisers’ office so that we could organise our bags and gear before heading straight into the Pampas. Our group of
Monkey
Bolivian Pampas5 gained 3 more members as a trio of Belgian girls joined our posse and would be staying with us throughout the trip.
Rurrenabaque itself is a superbly scenic place. The town is situated by the Rio Beni which flows past Rurrenabaques quiet, relaxed streets. Rurrenabaque has been hacked into the jungle which surrounds the town on three sides. Jungle clad hills rise up at the end of many of the small town’s streets as it appears to be in a constant battle with the jungle that is attempting to reclaim the area for itself. The roads consist of market stalls and vendors, restaurants, hostels, internet cafes and tourist offices. It is very apparent that this is a tourist town - an overgrown village backwater that has exploded in recent years. Thankfully though, it still retains its quiet lazy charm.
We climbed into the jeep which bumped over a horrid gravelly and pothole strewn road for 3 hours before reaching the departure point. We boarded our boat which was long and wooden with 4 pairs of seats that sprung down from the sides. We met our guide and driver also - a Bolivian chap named Domingo who would
Camp Toilets
A precarious night pee could end up with a fall in Alligator and Cayman infested waters! be pointing out all of the various wildlife to us as well as navigating the complex and confusing system of waterways.
We began our trip soon after loading up our bags and food supplies onto the boat. Cruising down the Pampas waterways was incredible fun and very relaxing. The sun was shining as we glided across the inky black waters with thick vegetation rising up on either side of us which reflected perfectly in the glassy waters. The humidity was not so bad here too as the breeze generated by the boats velocity kept passengers cool.
The Pampas is the best way to see a large variety of wildlife and we enjoyed the benefits of this immediately. Our first foray into the Pampas was a 3 hour cruise to our camp that allowed us to see a large variety of animals. These ranged from Turtles, Monkeys, Alligators, Parrots, Stalks, Herons and Pink River Dolphins. They were all so clear to see as well and did not require much effort to find. Every few moments Domingo would call out another animal he had spotted before slowing down so we could have a good look. The highlight of the first
trip was the hoard of monkeys that swarmed over our boat when Domingo whipped out a banana - their small hands scooping out tiny morsels before they would bound off back into the bushes.
We arrived at our camp, which was situated by the river after a few hours and settled into our rooms. The camp was wooden and built on stilts partially underwater. Water swilled around certain sections of the camp and Black Cayman’s and Alligator’s were regular visitors. The same ones hung around the camp all the time and could always be seen lurking in the water with their heads and tails just visible above the surface. Each meal we ate we were watched by these fantastic reptiles, which was unsettling at times! They joined the resident monkeys in the surrounding trees that were incredibly vocal early in the mornings but made the camp wonderfully atmospheric.
After lunch and more wildlife spotting we made our way by boat over to a sunset bar to enjoy the sunset, obviously. The bar was high on stilts and reflected perfectly in the still inky water beneath. We made our way to the top level and watched the sun slide
slowly behind the horizon whilst enjoying a cold beer. It was a beautiful sight as the final rays of the sun threw fiery orange flickers across the shimmering dark water. Thick vegetation rolled off into the distance that became a dark black, twisted silhouette as dusk eventually faded to black.
We finished our drinks and began one of the most epic battles of the trip - Man versus Mosquito. They are vicious in the Pampas because of the abundance of still water. Domingo told us that a cold front had passed through recently making them marginally less of a nuisance than usual. Even still I bathed myself in deet to ward them off - and still got bitten to shreds.
We made our way back to the camp in the pitch blackness of the Pampas waterways. I was curious as to how Domingo could actually see his way through the blackness. The moonlight shimmered off the water beautifully though and reflected the beautifully clear night sky on the silky surface. We reached the camp and spent the evening enjoying some of the guides playing Bolivian songs before drifting off to the sounds of the jungle underneath my mosquito
net whilst sweating profusely in the humidity. The mosquito bites were also beginning to itch.
At night the Cayman’s and Alligators became more active which was quite unsettling if one needed (as I often do) a midnight pee. This required wandering across ground that the Alligator's and Cayman’s inhabit, then across a rickety wooden walkway (with no guard rail - this is Bolivia) which fell away either side into the reptile-infested black water. Attempting this whilst sleepy could be very precarious indeed!
I woke up in the same condition I fell asleep - sweating and itching - whilst enjoying the monkey chatter outside the hut I shared with one of the Belgians. After breakfast we made our way up river again to an area that we would embark on an Anaconda Walk. We had to wear boots for this as the walk began with the group wading through thick grasslands that were shoulder height. Boggy, smelly water that was constantly at the level just beneath the top of the boots covered the entire thick, grassy area which I had to slosh my way through.
The walk was hard in the oppressive humidity and the hot sun. I
was a smelly, sweaty mess by the time we reached our destination - a tree-covered island in the middle of the grasslands which was where the boggy water stopped. We walked around the island in search of Anaconda for some time but were unable to find any. The chances of a sighting are rare, especially at this time of the year when the water levels are highest which gives them plenty of places to hide out. We did see some other snakes however, which was satisfying, before making our way back for lunch.
That afternoon we enjoyed a siesta at our camp. Our group hung lazily from hammocks situated on the waterfront that were amazingly comfortable. I drifted off here for a couple of hours before we were heading off onto the waterways again. After a scenic loop and more wildlife, which also now included more of the same but also Toucans, we made our way to another sunset location. We watched the sun set again before embarking on our boat trip beneath the stars to spot Black Cayman’s.
Each armed with torches we silently cut through the shimmering water flashing our beams into the nearby foliage. We
spotted lots as our beams cut through the darkness and hit their eyes. The Black Cayman's eyes glinted back at us like glittering jewels, revealing their locations clearly. Most of them didn’t move and just stared right back at us. At one point of the night safari Domingo reversed the boat into some foliage excitedly and jumped off the boat to then re-board moments later holding a baby Alligator!
This was amazing as he described how powerful it is even at his age, which was only a few weeks. It was about a foot long and very powerful. He passed it to each one of us in turn, showing us a specific way to hold it so that it did not wriggle out of our hands. The skin was scaly, waxy smooth and was a camouflage green colour. The baby Alligator actually managed to squirm out of the hands of one of our team which led to a mad scramble around our feet to catch it. We eventually did and Domingo put it back into the nest he found it.
The next day I awoke excitedly as this was the day we’d be swimming with the dolphins. There
are an enormous amount of them in the Pampas. We had seen plenty of them already as we had been cruising in our boat. They would crest the water before diving back down but now we had the chance to dive in with them. The dolphins in the Pampas are Pink River Dolphins, which I had seen before in Singapore, but never in their natural environment.
We went to a couple of different locations that the dolphins are known to congregate and dived in. The Pampas waters are black (because of the rotting leaves and foliage), smelly and infested with piranhas, Black Caymans and Alligators. All of these things flew rapidly from my mind as the sheer delight of swimming with Dolphins overtook me.
The experience was nothing short of mind-blowing. I swam around with the dolphins cresting around me before disappearing back into the water. They appeared to be curious of me as they circled around and popped up in front of me occasionally. It was truly amazing though and I had a beaming smile on my face for the rest of the day - even though I smelt like a sewer. Following this we stopped to
fish for some of the aforementioned Piranha - attaching small morsels of meat onto hooks and sinking them into the water. Again - the water levels were high this time of year and so we were unsuccessful. We did get to try another groups Piranha's though, which was nice.
We returned to camp again and consumed our final lunch. The food has really been excellent - especially the lunches and dinners. Breakfast usually consists of a variety of deep fried, refried, fried things whilst lunch and dinner was usually succulent meats, rice and vegetables. We packed our bags after lunch and boarded our boat for the final journey back to the starting point and the horrible 3 hour jeep journey back to Rurrenabaque that no one was looking forward to.
We celebrated our return to Rurrenabaque, civilisation and showering by enjoying the local nightlife. This consists of one bar that plays cheesy classics all night long - which was excellent. We all ended up getting pretty plastered actually with a multitude of shots, beers and cocktails being consumed with food and still only costing about £10 per person. I do love Bolivia.
I woke up groggily the
next morning ready to begin our jungle expedition. A wooden long boat was the mode of transport that would ferry us deep into the jungle which was a welcome alternative to the Jeep. We all boarded the boat, with a few extra passengers, but I soon realised there were no seats left for me. The driver motioned for me to perch on an uncomfortable wooden ledge at the front of the boat. The jeep was looking like a better option at this moment as we head off, with my head still feeling groggy, down the Rio Beni.
Despite its discomforts, the views I had at the tip of the boat were magnificent. High, thick jungle clad hills rose peerlessly on either side. The wide brown Rio Beni was alive with various currents that our boat fought against constantly as it travelled up river. The sky was blue and the sun was shining but I was still markedly jealous of the boats other passengers that were snoozing lazily in their seas as the jungle floated by. Thankfully one of the boats crew motioned me to the back of the boat where he showed me that I could organise a bed
by moving a few of the bags at the back of the boat. I spent the rest of the 3 hour journey fast asleep as the gentle sway of the boat allowed me to drift off into oblivion instantly.
I awoke as our boat ran aground at a point where we had to begin the short trek to our jungle camp. The walk only lasted 15 minutes or so but was hard work in the blazing sun and high humidity. On top of this we had to carry the food supplies as well as our own bags to the camp. I ended up with a carrier bag with a chicken stuffed in (dead) and another heavy bag of smelly meat. This ensured we were all a sweaty mess when we reached our camp that was situated in a jungle clearing.
I inspected the camp as I became the focus of attention for every living bug in the vicinity (or so it felt like). The sun shot through the tree canopy shielding the camp from above in beams that lit up the huts set in a circular clearing. Our room consisted of a large dorm with wooden beds in
long rows draped with mosquito nets that we soon settled into after lunch. We had an hour before the first trek that was spent in a distinctly sweaty slumber which was something I was actually beginning to become used to. Cold showers were available on site but they were virtually useless as sweat would just pour from every pore a few minutes after exiting.
We embarked on our first jungle walk in the late afternoon sun. We walked under the thick, tall canopy of varied vegetation and were suddenly surrounded by the dense foliage of the jungle. The jungle is an immediate assault on the senses - the smell of the flora and fauna is dense in the humid, sticky air which plastered my clothes to my skin immediately. The sound of insects buzzing and clicking and birds cawing in distant trees rang out endlessly and reverberated in every direction. Our guide led as we hacked our way through the green wall in front of us stopping at various areas to point out interesting trees, plants and animals.
Animals are much harder to spot in the jungle than the Pampas because of the surrounding wall of trees and
plants but we did manage to glimpse a Woodpecker, a Toucan and some Monkeys which was pleasing. The walk lasted a total of 3 hours and was incredibly interesting making our group of 4 forget our sweaty dispositions and lose ourselves in the jungles romantic stranglehold. Our guide pointed out various plants and trees that one could drink fresh water from (which we tried and was actually very nice) as well as a plant that acted as natural viagra (which we didn't try). We passed enormous dead trees, fallen trees and fabulously fun tree swings (again, which we had great fun in trying out whilst playing Tarzan). We also passed over an enormous ant hill out of which a long trail of ants carried tiny bits of leaf.
The whole experience was fascinating and fun, even if it was in Spanish. We returned to camp to freshen up (so, shower then sweat some more) as we took on board some sustenance before resting in preparation for our night walk later. The camp faded to black soon after we got back from the first walk quite quickly - the canopy above blocking any of the final beams of light shining
from the horizon. There was no electricity in the camp and so tiny torch lights twinkled randomly in the camp betraying our group’s locations. Candles threw an ethereal glow on the veranda. The time came for our night walk, which began at around 9pm, and we delved into the jungle once more.
This was a totally different experience. The jungle was quieter than before and had a very eerie feel to it as the twigs and leaves crackled beneath our feet. All around us was the pitch black jungle and as I turned around (I was last in our line) my eyes struggled to make out any shapes at all. It was so so very black that I could not even see my hand in front of my face. Who knows what animals and insects could have been so close to me without seeing them. Jaguars stalk this jungle and they would be virtually impossible to spot in the abyss in front. Our small torches threw the faintest of glows around us lighting up an abundance of buzzing insects and huge silhouetted trees in the foreground.
If it was difficult to spot wildlife in the day time then
Rio Bedi
Enroute to Jungle Camp it would be virtually impossible to do so now. The jungle was still incredibly atmospheric though and our guide would stop momentarily when he heard something (Crocodile Dundee like), straining his eyes into the thick black dense jungle to see something - anything. We crept around the blackness for an hour, our torch light throwing its intense glare on enormous spider webs, which was as close to wildlife as we got that evening. It was a fascinating place to be at night and the hour walk flew by. We returned to camp, spending a night on the veranda of our dorm by candlelight, listening to the jungle come alive around us in a chorus of buzzes, screams, beeps, cracks and other noises sounding distinctly mechanical yet natural.
It was a dizzying sound to fall asleep to as the jungle sounds enveloped the camp as I lay beneath my mosquito net. I fell asleep to the hypnotic sounds that were relentless and lasted the entire evening. I woke up in the morning, shockingly cold! I had not expected the jungle to chill at night, but I welcomed the brief respite from the constant sweating that was bound to endure in
the next few hours. Sure enough, as the sun rose and the insects decided to defy my deet drenched skin I began to sweat like a nun in a field of cucumbers.
After breakfast we embarked on our final jungle trek. This was another sweaty yet fascinating walk beneath the green canopy that heralded a different array of wildlife. The most exciting of these was the Tarantula. They live in various locations across the jungle but not in webs strung between the trees - they live in burrows beneath the ground which our guide was able to spot. He tried to entice one out on multiple occasions to no success and eventually succumbed to hacking into the ground, into its huge burrow to allow us a glimpse.
At first I saw a tiny leg which shot back into the burrow. However this was only the leg of a baby and within seconds, from a hole the size of a small fist popped out an enormous, hairy Tarantula. This thing was absolutely huge and it was exhilarating to be so close to it. It was incredibly thick and easily the size of two hands placed next to each other.
Its hairy legs were long and fat with a bulbous egg sack hanging off its rear end. We were even able to stroke it, which was scary as hell and certainly had my pulse pounding as I brushed its hairy back. After admiring it for a few moments the guide allowed it to scurry back into its hole, covering over the area he had hacked to give the spider some privacy with its newborn. Bless.
We finished the 3 hour walk by trying various jungle fruits that are used by indigenous tribes and were actually quite tasty. Our guide also pointed out a tree used for insect bites, which was much needed at this stage. The Man versus Mosquito battle had a clear winner already. Finally, on our way back to camp we hunted some wild jungle pigs. Their awful stench gave away their position and we crept through the thick foliage following, watching them wander around, for quite some time before our camp finally came into view.
After a filling lunch (the food has been excellent, again) we set off back on the Rio Beni, fighting the current for 3 hours more and enjoying the jungle float
slowly past before arriving back in Rurrenabaque. My flight left a couple of hours after getting back onto dry land and so before long I was at the airport waiting for my flight to bounce down the muddy runway. It didn't however, and about 30 minutes before takeoff I was told that the flight had been cancelled - something which happens quite often apparently.
The planes technical problems ensured I spent one more night in delightful Rurrenabaque before catching the first flight to La Paz in the morning and enjoy the spectacular scenery in reverse. Despite an epic downpour during the night the flight left on schedule, bumping down the grassy, muddy runway before soaring over the tops of trees and the thick jungle below. The snow caked Andes Mountains soon came into view as I enjoyed the awesome flight back to La Paz.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.162s; Tpl: 0.037s; cc: 9; qc: 56; dbt: 0.1086s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.3mb
Eric
non-member comment
I enjoyed your Amazon post. I have always wanted to go there. My blog is looking for travel photos and stories. If you have the time, email us some at dirtyhippiesblog@gmail.com or check us out at dirty-hippies.blogspot.com Continued fun on your travels, Eric