Advertisement
Published: April 3rd 2010
After getting our group together and negotiating a rate with a local tour operator in Tupiza we wasted no time in disembarking on a tour of Bolivia's legendary South Western Circuit. We left the very next morning, meeting at the tour operator’s office for breakfast before leaving at around 8am. Bolivia's South West Circuit is a 4 day jeep ride through stunning landscapes and other-worldly vistas through the colourful and mineral-rich Altiplano. The ride promised to be quite uncomfortable and occasionally a little scary eventually culminating in the group cruising across the world’s largest (and highest) salt flats - Salar de Uyuni.
It is going to be impossible to describe each landscape we ventured into in detail and there can never be any substitute for seeing these amazing scenes with one’s own eyes. Each day we encountered many differing climates, altitudes and vistas of such colourful variety it is hard to remember them all in any level of detail. Describing them would take a life time. They were all stupendously beautiful and spectacularly dramatic though. I have tried to pick out certain highlights for each day below and will no doubt over use the same superlatives to describe each one!
I have also used an enormous amount of photos and even this amount has been whittled down multiple times!
We kissed the smooth(ish) tarmac of Tupiza goodbye as we boarded our battered 10-year old Toyota. Our guide was called Reuben and only spoke Spanish, which hopefully would help ours develop a little. Mine is already coming along nicely and I can even just about hold a broken conversation in the language. In the car was also our pint-sized cook Jeanette (which I don't think was her real name) who wore the same orange track suit for most of the trip. Despite being tiny she was an awesome cook.
The road soon bumped out of Tupiza and we left the comfortable roads behind as the next 4 days would be spent on a variety of bumpy surfaces. The journey began with us worming our way up a gravelly river bed passing cattle farmers herding goats accompanied by high red rock hills on either side. We soon turned off and began to climb, and climb, and climb. We reached a height of 3,700 metres above sea level before stopping to take in the view. Our jeep had been skirting a
mountain, rising steeply over a rocky road with a precipitous drop on the right hand side.
The first view was amazing and really set the tone nicely. The sun glared behind us as rolling red hills and contorted wavy rock formations wormed out in front of us. This area is called El-Sillar and we spent some time taking in the cacti dotted landscape. We also experienced our first break-down here. Our driver got his head in the bonnet and soon fixed the problem though. All of the men in car agreed that the problem was definitely engine related. Reuben, our driver / mechanic / guide declined our offers of help though. The jeeps break down a lot and it was a common sight to see a jeep pulled up by the side of the 'road' with the bonnet up. The jeeps are quite old (but in safe enough condition) and the harsh Altiplano environment - a combination of salt, sand, water, rocks and grit take its toll on the car as they spend several hours a springing over the various plateaus.
We moved on from El Sillar, passing the mining settlement of Nazarenito and Trapiche before stopping at
San Pablo de Lipez for lunch. The scenery had been mesmerising throughout the day as the arid red rock desert had given way to grassier views. We were sitting at the foot of San Pablo, at a height of 4,200 metres. We sat and ate lunch in front of a wide, grassy field full of Llama's - which appear to be in many sporadic locations on the Altiplano. They are very cute animals and look like something between a sheep and a cow and come in a variety of colours.
One of the Llamas had just given birth which was great to see. The Mother was nudging the baby (which Google tells me is called a Cria), which was still covered in the afterbirth. The baby was soon up and tottering around, which was surprising to see so early on. After finishing our lunch and spending time amongst the Llama's we set off again, disappearing into a plume of dust towards our next destination.
The road continued to hug perilous mountain roads and sweep through dusty valleys as the sun began to slide behind the distant mountains. Our camp for the night was not far away - neither
of us wanted our driver (as experienced as he appeared) to try and negotiate the terrain in the total blackness that was sure to follow. We drove up a yellow sanded valley, flanked by pointy volcanoes with sporadic clumps of yellowy green grass sprawled out on both sides of us. We were following a small stream which we traversed countless times - crisp water splashing up the sides of our dusty jeep.
The road narrowed again taking us up further over rocky and precarious mountainous terrain. It was getting really dark now - the glorious sunny day gradually giving way to a fresh cold evening. The mountains surrounded us as we finally found our camp for the night in simple lodgings, nestled in the mountains at 4,250 metres. We stayed in a small village which consisted of a few mud huts with straw roofs. The primary industry here is agriculture but it always amazes me how cut-off these settlements are. Far from bus routes, phone lines and the outside world in general. Children smiled and waved at us as we unloaded our packs from the roof of the jeep and took them into our room.
The room was
one large dorm that we were all to share. The mud hut was pretty cosy actually - newspaper substituting the usual wall paper across each wall giving it a unique feel. The beds comprised of llama wool and plenty of blankets for the freezing night ahead. We were all really feeling the effects of altitude sickness at this stage and each were experiencing nausea to compliment our thumping headaches. We had ascended quite quickly today and had not properly acclimitised. The air at altitude is much thinner and the simplest of activities becomes a struggle leaving one completely out of breath as the heart tries harder to oxygenate the blood supply and feed the brain.
We had all been chewing coca leaves to try and combat the effects of altitude sickness to varying degrees of success. Coca leaves are a contentious subject across the USA and Bolivia because of the drug that is synthesised from it - cocaine. The coca leaves themselves are legal in Bolivia and are consumed in enormous amounts. It is rare to not see a Bolivian, working at altitude, with a bundle of coca leaves stuffed into his or her cheeks. Tea is also made
out of the leaves, which is pretty potent stuff but the leaves have a mild tea taste when left in the mouth and chewed over a long period of time. The cocaine is illegal in Bolivia and is synthesised using an array of chemicals in the far northern jungles of the country. The USA tries to put pressure constantly on Bolivia to outlaw the actual leaves, whilst Bolivia blames the addicts feeding the industry as the source of the problem.
Despite the coca leaves suspect medicinal qualities, after a quick power nap and some of Jeanette’s fabulous cooking we were all feeling a little better though and spent much of the night outside in the freezing cold enjoying the night sky. A combination of factors including the fact that there was no light pollution, no moon that I could see, being closer to the equator and at 4,250 metres above sea level ensured that the night sky was the best I have ever seen. The galaxy loomed large overhead in all directions with the dusty outline of the Milky Way being clearly visible - something I have never seen before. There were infinite stars above our heads which felt
so incredibly close and imposing. It was a sight that quickened the heart and widened the eyes, which probably didn't help with the altitude sickness, but made for a mesmerising evening.
We began the next day early - rising at 4.30am. No one fancied having a cold shower when it was a chilly minus-something outside. We began the day in hats and fleeces but soon changed as the sun rose, painting the arid red dirt landscape a spectacular orange. We began to drive through more desert with patchy grass and small salt lakes dotted around the landscape. Looming large ahead was the conical Ulturuncu Volcano which tops out at 6008 metres. We stopped off at the foot of the volcano at Yellow Laguna - a salty lake that is yellow funnily enough. A few flamingos are wandering on the surface which gloriously reflected the morning sun.
From here the landscape became drier and dustier before we began to follow a flowing river that we splashed over multiple times. Grassy moss areas also began to dot the landscape as vistas richer with lush vegetation began creeping across the arid, dusty ground. This soon changed again as we rose even
higher still, treating us to stunning high views of the tiny road snaking out in front of us. The road soon opened out into a dusty bowl with nothing but jeep tracks leading down to a lake which contained hundreds of pink flamingos.
The smelly sulphuric lake was called Laguna Hedionda and was spectacular. The still water crisply reflected the pink flamingos against the clear blue sky set against a dramatic backdrop of distant mountains. It was a beautiful scene. To approach the lake I had to wade through smelly, boggy sulphur piles which cracked underfoot but allowed some great Flamingo photos. The water was so still it appeared as if the Flamingo's were standing on their own feet, such was the clarity of their reflection in the water. The sight of some of the Flamingo's taking flight and skimming the surface of the water, still being reflected in the mirror-like surface was stunning.
We drove off and around the lake further for only a few minutes before reaching another lake called Laguna Kolpa. Again this dramatic lake was set in the middle of a dusty bowl on the high Altiplano plateau and is a mind-boggling sight to
comprehend in such a remote area. Huge gatherings of Flamingo's also dotted the surface which looked silky smooth and mirror-like. This lake also contains many of the raw materials for making soap and shampoo that are collected from here. We witnessed this on the far side as we drove all the way around the lake, crunching over the gravelly surface until we hit Salar de Chalviri.
This is a small salt flat that is sprawled across the landscape between mountainous scenery. It gave us all a glimpse of the psychedelic nature of the salt flats which appear to stretch on dazzlingly white for miles. We cruised over the flatness of the salt before having lunch at Water son Terminales. These are thermal baths heated by volcanic veins and the abundance of geothermal activity in the area. An area has been sectioned off for tourists to soak in the medicinal waters which apparently help to cure rheumatism and arthritis. The water is wonderfully warm and is sectioned off at the end of a wonderful view. Salty, colourful lakes of brown and green sludge stretch out into the distance towards large mountains set against a cold blue sky and dazzling sun.
We had lunch in a nearby cabin before drying off and heading out towards Licancabur Volcano. On the way we drove past dusty desert scenery with Tatooine-like rock rising from sandy yellow banks on either side of the road. Licancabur loomed larger and larger as we drove closer to it until we rounded a corner after 40 minutes or so of driving for a spectacular panoramic viewpoint. The conical shape of Licancabur rose peerlessly in front of us framed by the blue sky and the large lake that sits at its base called Laguna Verde. The water shimmers a bright turquoise blue which looks magnificent in the dry white dusty desert scenery and rocks surrounding it. The lake gets its colour from the high amounts of magnesium and arsenic in the water. It is for this reason that nothing lives here.
On some days the water is very still - perfectly reflecting Licancabur in the bright lake beneath. However, at the time we arrived a fierce wind was whipping up the surface into a rippling frenzy of shimmering waves. We enjoyed the view for some time before making our way back towards the thermal baths where we picked
up Jeanette and headed further south west to experience more of Bolivia's Altiplano geothermal delights.
The day certainly finished on a high as we drove to geysers located at the highest point of the trip - a dizzying 5,000 metres above sea level. These pools of bubbling mud and lava craters are a hive of sizzling geothermal activity and are wonderful to watch smoke and smoulder against the landscape. I have seen geothermal activity before in New Zealand but what made this so amazing was the setting. The pock-marked dusty red and grey hills dotted with sporadic steaming craters filled with bubbling, smelly, sulphur rich pools made for a flabbergasting other-worldly scene. I felt as if I was on a different planet completely.
We spent some time wandering around the various pools and craters which bubble at over 200 degrees Fahrenheit. This being Bolivia, there are no safety rails at all and a wonderful path snakes in between many of the geysers. Some of the ground hissed with thermal, steamy pressure beneath our feet as we walked over it. All the time we were conscious of the fact any of these small jets of steam could open up
into large volcanic fissures, boiling us alive at any time. Thankfully they didn't and we made our way safely to our evening camp located at Huayllajara - situated at a more manageable 4,400 metres above sea level.
The accommodation again was simple, yet comfortable and warm thanks to the plethora of thick woolen blankets provided. Jeanette excelled herself yet again with the evening cuisine and afterwards I spent the remainder of the evening wandering off into the not too distant barren red desert to watch the sun set behind the hills. The camp soon turned black with solar panels providing a small flickering of sporadic electricity. The sky again was spectacular, with many of the constellations visible (I can only pick out two, but they were all there I'm sure).
We enjoyed a lie in the following day until 6am, having a leisurely breakfast whilst watching the sun rise, before making our way the short distance over to the Red Lagoon. The Red Lagoon bathed heavenly in the morning light and was glazed with an enormous amount of Flamingo's, surrounded by volcanoes on the far side and steaming lakes of crystal clear water on the nearest side.
The colours were truly memorable as the mossy green sides of the steaming thermal pools faded into the glassy surface of the lake which perfectly reflected the mountains, volcanoes and pink Flamingo's on the surface. The sun rose further still and dazzled across the surface of the large lake. The lake gets its name, and its reddish colour (which was very faint, possible due to the time of day and sun position) because of the chlorophyll pigments in the algae and fine sediments that are deposited deep beneath the surface. We enjoyed the sunrise over the lake for some time before wheel-spinning off again into the desert.
Before long we had entered the Siloli Desert which could very easily double for Tatooine. Wide open sandy desert splayed out in front of us as our jeep toiled to make tracks through the sand. We stopped at various points of interest and differing rock formations which looked quite odd in the middle of the desert. The famous Tree of Stone was the most curious, although it has now been surrounded by and unsightly barb-wire fence to stop tourists climbing over it. It does slightly resemble a tree and is surrounded by
other rock formations that are interesting to explore.
We passed many differing lakes again this day, each of which was spectacularly beautiful with more Flamingos paddling in the milky white water. Our jeep rumbled on past Ramaditas, Honda, Chiacorta, Canapes and Hedionda - each of which were stupendous large white lakes set against dramatic landscapes. The lakes again were smattered with Flamingo's and wild Vicuna's roaming around the arid scenery. The dusty desert soon changed colour yet again, this time becoming gravelly, golden and yellow as we approached Ollague Volcano which sits at 5,800 metres above sea level.
We had lunch in the foot hills of the volcano, which was smoldering from various fissures and bounced our way towards Chuguana Salt Lake. This was a large and impressive expanse of salt that sits near Bolivia's border with Chile. A railway line cuts through the salt desert which sits at the foot of a volcano and passes through the small town of San Juan. This small settlement is a remote little outpost with a relatively large population. Children were running around the streets excitedly with a few posing happily for photos, beaming their smiling innocence into our lenses.
We spent the night on the edge of Salar de Uyuni - in a hotel that is made entirely of salt. This was fabulous as each block that makes up the structure was salt, the beds were obviously the usual Llama mattress but set on salt foundations. The eating area, bathrooms, tables and chairs were all made of salt which looked really wonderful and made for an exceptionally agreeable place to spend the evening.
The next morning we rose early again to catch the sun rise as we began our foray into the largest salt flats in the world. Salar de Uyuni covers an area of 12,000 km sq and produces around 20,000 tonnes of salt annually. 18,000 tonnes of that is used for human consumption, whilst much of the rest is used for agricultural purposes. The day began very dark with our headlights piercing the dawn sky as sun rise began to break on the western side of the endless salt flats.
We stopped to watch the sun rise which was very cool indeed. The sky lit up a fiery orange as it began to sweep the dark blue of dawn across the skyline. The sun rose
throwing its heat onto our cold faces as we stood isolated in the middle of the salt desert. The bright orange sun reflected mesmerisingly off the crystal flat salty ground that cracked underfoot. After a period of photos and jumping around ridiculously in front of the rising sun we made our way to the centre of the salt flats and the Incahuasi Island. This is an island in the middle of the salt desert that is full of cacti which is just plain bizarre. Apparently the Inca's hid out here when fleeing from the Spanish as they swept through South America. Not a bad spot really as you can see everyone who approaches for miles around.
The island contains a walkway that snakes through the cacti and up to a viewpoint that allowed us to view the sea of cacti snake over the island and flow down to the salty, waterless shore. We admired the huge trees, some standing as tall as 12 metres, before making our way down to the shore for breakfast. Jeanette (bless her) had baked an enormous cake which we munched through whilst enjoying the scenery at our salt tables and chairs (obviously). Then, bizarrely
an Ostrich appeared and began to try and eat our cake (no, seriously). We had to repeatedly chase the thing off before we could enjoy our breakfast properly.
It was then that it dawned on me how mind-bogglingly crazy this place is. I was in the middle of an enormous salty desert, having breakfast on an island full of cacti whilst being attacked by an Ostrich. It is the kind of freaky stuff that is contained within incredibly odd dreams and something no one could possibly comprehend unless they experience it. If it were not for the photo's I took I don't think anyone would have even believed it.
We pressed on, eager to begin taking our ludicrous perspective photos. We drove into the flat bright dazzling white of salt for about half an hour to find a suitably isolated part of the flats, which wasn't particularly hard. The sun had risen further now revealing a brilliant blue sky. The bright sun ignited the salt making it difficult to look at without sun glasses. The ground itself was amazing - it was so hard and perfectly flat with a hexagon pattern stretching out in all directions. Where this
comes from I am not sure but it made for an incredibly psychedelic vista.
Much time was spent creating ridiculous photos. Because of the incredible flatness of the landscape and its lack of variety in terms of terrain and colour we were able to take a variety of funny pictures such as people stepping on others, popping out of the top of Pringles cans, lifting up seemingly enormous beer cans amongst a million other ideas we had all been contemplating for the last few days. Content that all of our wildest creations had come to photographic fruition we made our way to the only salt hotel located on the actual salt flats themselves.
This resembled some sort of wild remote outpost because of the sparse setting and was similar in terms of setup from where we stayed the previous evening. We cruised on further over the salt flats, splashing over small milky rainwater lakes before finally bumping off the Salar de Uyuni altogether. We spent some time at the town at the very rim of the Salar de Uyuni which is called Colchani and is the primary place for readying the commercial salt for shipping. On top of
this there is an artisan market setup for tourists which makes for a suitable stop to enjoy our final lunch.
The food throughout the tour has been wonderful. Our little cook was not the chattiest of people but she cooked some very delicious traditional Bolivian fare. We had a variety of meats such as chicken and llama, plenty of large plates of steaming vegetables, fruit, bundles of rice and possibly the most delicious vegetable soup I have ever tasted.
We made the final journey to Uyuni, which was very close by. We stopped to fill up on petrol before making our way into town. Our jeep conked out just before the pump, meaning we had to push it the final few metres. After this it wouldn't start again which again led us all to peer into the bonnet as our driver took the tools out once more. Again, this time we surmised that the problem definitely was with the engine. We hadn't actually broken down that much - we had the bonnet up possibly once a day which seemed pretty normal speaking to other groups. After a full day of driving, our driver / guide / mechanic would
always have his head in the bonnet, taking the engine apart and cleaning various parts. Clearly essential maintenance for the jeeps continued service.
We reached the town of Uyuni (3,650 metres above sea level) finally - welcoming the return to some smooth tarmac - even if it was just around the small town centre. We said our fond farewells to Reuben and Jeanette who I am sure will miss us as much as we miss them (yeah right). Uyuni does not really have much else to offer apart from the Salar de Uyuni so we all wasted no time in booking our onward travel.
After enjoying the comforts of a proper hotel room (costing £3 for the night) we all feasted on a dinner that certainly lacked the nutritional value of Jeanette's cooking - an enormous burger with fries. The next day I caught the early bus to Potosi, which was a bumpy 6 hours away, to organise my foray into hell.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.062s; Tpl: 0.024s; cc: 8; qc: 24; dbt: 0.0251s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
Joe Owens
non-member comment
Nice Photos
I love your photos thanks for sharing this. Hope one day I can also visit Latin America to personally see and experience all of these. ___________ Barbados Apartment Hotel