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Published: February 28th 2010
Having spent the last 6 weeks in Rwanda - a country traumatised by genocide, affecting everybody's lives, I at last went to the genocide memorial in Kigali to find out a bit more.
Life has gone on - it had to and it's difficult to find out about what happened. I'm shy to ask questions, worried it might not be appropriate, or that it's something people don't want to remember. The majority of the people i have been with had already fled with their families from the country either in 1957 or in the period running up to 94 (when two thirds of the population left), to the neighbouring countries of Uganda, Dem Republic of Congo, Tanzania or Burundi, and haven't shared experiences. I know people have met others who are currently going through a court process testifying against those that killed members of their families and have shared these stories - each person obviously dealing with it in their own way.
I'm not good at retaining facts but it was a very moving experience; Rwandans- keen that this should never be allowed to happen again, nor denied, have set up a very informative centre.
There was no doubt a huge lead up to the events in 94 but the two tribes had seemingly been living in unity until the Belgians moved in and introduced identity cards - drawing an instant separation between people; and on top of this were employing predominantly Tutsis presumable believing they were more capable and hence magnifying the separation. Hutus turned on Tutsis qnd even moderate Hutus with the order to kill.
The events of the first few months of 1994 had been long calculated and planned with target lists and addresses of Tutsis, sufficient tools and weapons, readily dug mass graves and meremy hours after the President's plane had been shot down killings were being reported. People turned on neighbours, friends and even family killing over a million people in only 100 days (which equates to a horrific 10,000 per day). Orders were to target women and children to wipe out any future generations of Tutsis from soceity, first harming and often raping by HIV positive men prior to slowly killing using machetes, slashes, guns or whatever they could get their hands on.
There were many stories of hutus hiding their Tutsi friends, one of whom dug a trench in the garden, covered with planks of wood which themselves were covered by soil and then maize grown on top and food was taken to those hiding disguised in a dustbin.
15 years on Rwanda is still dealing with all the genocidaires and have introduced their local judiciare syste, (Gachacha) to trial the offenders. Civilians lead the hearings infront of the local communities and the offenders are slowly having to return to their villages and face everybody.
To forgive or to forget? This is a very personal decision. Having lunch in a local restaurant talking about the genocide with a friend's colleague last week she got in a heated discussion with the lady who owned the restaurant about whether on could forgive or forget....everyone must deal with these horrific events in their own way.
On my way to the centre i had been shooed off my moto and all traffic stopped - the road suddenly closed (although no police were quite sure why or probably just couldn't be bothered to tell us why). Having given up waiting i started to walk and there, zooming past in a fancy 4 by 4 and with an entourage of press buses, security and you name it, was Sarkozy! - visiting Rwanda attempting to restore the French-Rwandan relationship.
The way home was not without events; although the road was open, my moto got a flat tyre....bit embarrassing, then as i got on the bus home the heavens opened. It's a funny sight because no-one goes out in the rain, they all shelter under bus stops or in shops until it passes. The journey back was twice as long as usual, as fortunately the bus driver decided it wise to slow down in the rain.... shame i was squished in a bus full of 18 men with no room to bat an eyelid!
having read back the above i realise it's a bit of this and a bit of that but it's impossible to put everything into words and i guess this is some of what i took away from the day ...... There are so many questions that remain unanswered and that will never be understood but I do hope that the stability in the country today can be maintained - the upcoming elections either this year or in 4years time will be a telling point.
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katy
non-member comment
Jess, another great update...sounds like a lot to think about and process.