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Published: February 1st 2010
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An early start and off to the Airport, The line was long but the airline (Taca) processed us quickly and we took off, it was a lovely clear flight for most of the way and we watched the mountains and lakes below us, it clouded over as we approached Cusco, There is a curious landing procedure as you approach Cusco airport, the pilot brings the plane around one of the peaks that surround the town coming frighteningly close then does a 180 degree turn to the other side of the peak and lands the plane, think this particular pilot may have done this before.
We got to our hostal Cahuide on Calle Saphi, it was bright and clean not swanky but more than sufficient for our needs, the staff are a jolly lot and made our arrival smooth and welcoming.
We dumped our bags and went in search of lunch, of course we couldn't pass the Irish pub, Paddy O' Flaherty's owned by a very nice chap called Gary who hails from Carlow, We ordered traditional Irish grub, word of warning if your going to eat here, be hungry the portions are huge, none the less we made slight
work of it and enjoyed the food and our first can of guinness in ages.
There is a South American Explorers club in Cusco, Mary and Mark run the club and as always its a great place to get info about the surrounding area, its also at the top of a very steep hill in San Blas and being that it was my first day in a while to be at altitude it well and truly kicked my arse, by the time I got to the club I felt sure I was gonna have a coronary.
We noticed a monthly rental house on the way up to the club, a place called Mama's hospedaje, it sounded like a possibility.
We went to change dollars, this turns out to be a curiosity of Peru, they refuse (including banks) to take any notes that are in ANY way damaged even if its obvious they are real, they just won't take them.
Cusco is most definitely geared towards the tourist, Indigenous ladies and their kids roam the Plaza de Armas carrying baby llamas and lambs touting for photo opportunities with eager tourists, a fee is expected in return, I'm
unsure as to weather these people wear this get-up generally, maybe on occasions or festivals but they seem a little overdressed for everyday attire. Having said that there are the other indigenous folks who go about their everyday life in clothing that is strange to our western sensibilities. Long flowing skirts in multi colours with rubber sandels, thick woolen stockings with the feet often exposed even though it can get quite cold here, Ladies in white fine brimed hats with darker bands, its an elegant and charming look. The children are cherub faced with rosy cheeks, often only glimpsed out of a colourful blanket artfully tied to its mothers back.
The food has been very good here though its to be expected as there is so much competition, restaurants are everywhere and touts chase you up and down the main tourist areas with menus trying to get you to eat in their place, shoeshine boys want to polish your shoes for a sole even if your wearing flip flops, People are everywhere selling silver and little reproductions of local paintings, handicrafts tapestries and hand knit woolen products. Its nothing if not a lively atmosphere.
Our other bags arrived
safely and we decided to move into the mama"s hostel for a week as it worked out a little cheaper for us, it is a little place were the owner has separated the building into individual units, comprising of kitchenette, bathroom and bedroom all very compact but the view of the city was lovely, We were promised good internet connection, lots of hot water and a pleasant stay. We paid for a week and unpacked, We had no internet but were promised this would be fixed, On arriving home on the second night we found still no internet, our room had not been cleaned in 2 days although we were promised daily housekeeping and the water was turned off, not just the hot water but the water, we couldn't even use the toliet. 2 days of this was enough, John went and had words with the owner and although the place was quite charming, it does not live up to what it claims to offer its guests, We were refunded the remaining days and left early the next morning.
We moved to Hotel Eureka in the San Blas area, The best thing about this place is the staff, they
are so helpful and pleasant, our room was warm hot shower, good breakfast, we stayed 3 nights until we found another place this time for a month called Cusco Suites on calle Saphi , Its a renovated colonial house, we have stone archways in our living room, how's that for posh, anyway its a family home and we have the unit at the back.they are good people.
The streets of Cusco are impossibly narrow considering they are open to traffic and pedestrians, walking them can be hazardous, the pavements are about 1 foot wide and the road itself is about the width of a mid-size car, the taxis are daewoods, they resemble matchboxes with wheels, most of them would not be considered roadworthy in many countries.
I met up with a guy I knew in Quito from Ireland named Aiden, he is the bartender in Paddy's and its nice to see a friendly face, we have also befriended a gentleman named Richard who has resided in Cusco on and off for many years, every local pub has a wise philosophical character and Richard is our's, he is a mine of information, tales, warnings advice and the odd antidote.
Paula another friend from Quito arrived as she had business in the town, we had a few nights out and good meals, she spent her last few nights in the house, it was nice to have a gal pal to gossip with and great to see her.
We have had some good nights out and met some great people, including an Aussie chap we had met in Mancora, also Gaz and John who we enjoyed a few mojitos and a boogie with.
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Tommy
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Is this Ursula or..
Hi there, Is this Ursula or Kytrn Thomas (travel corespondent for RTE). Been readin the blogs and there great, u paint a great pitchure with ur words. There's a book in there,i told u. I better b at the launch. Seriously, keep it up.