Victoria Falls Day 1: Zambia vs. Zimbabwe

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We have been told by enough people now that the Zimbabwean side is where it is at. Especially in the dry season as less water is coming over the falls and certain portions have no water coming over. It is a bit early but I paid for a 24 hour internet connection and I am not sure when I will be able to post again, both from a time and connection standpoint. In 3 hours we will be off to the airport, flying SAA to Livingstone, Zambia and then crossing the border to Zimbabwe.

We made it to OR Tambo without a hitch, this time attempting the southerly route to the N3, but making a left turn onto M85 rather than continuing into Alexandra. We did so well we were quite early and did a little bit of shopping with nothing purchased despite plenty of options. The car return with Thrifty went very smoothly, none of the games we had in Greece, these guys are professionals.

Flying SAA

No check-in kiosks and we were told we could not carry-on our bags which turned out to be incorrect. Just don't ask will be my motto hereforward, just DO it. On arriving in Zambia, it was evident our bags had been rummaged through, but there were no valuables so they left everything. I was only worried they might take my chargers carelessly. Aside from that, we were upgraded to premium class which was nice, large seats and more legroom. Not many Americans here, a good amount of French and South Africans are travelling to Vic Falls.

THIS is Africa

Yes, we did get a taste in Swaziland, but its proximity to South Africa and small size give it a different feel. Zambia and Zimbabwe are Africa through and through. It's hard to explain what makes them that way but its a blend of silly bureaucratic processes involving excessive amounts of paper; complete disorganization mixed with fruitless attempts at administration that create more bureaucracy; and poverty not exemplified by huts but by crumbling colonial-era buildings and masses of people laying about with nothing to do and not much of a desire to do anything regardless.

Right off the bat I realized my mistake booking our tickets into Livingstone, Zambia rather than Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. The cost of visas is EXHORBITANT in Zambia and the visas aren't even multiple entry. I commented to Jennifer how this is just a cheap way for governments to make money and the immigration agent overheard a commented that they are keeping the costs down but "it is very expensive to accommodate the tourists". Really? I find that very hard to believe when you see that even the supposedly good infrastructure of Zambia is not that much better than the "crumbling" one in Zimbabwe. This is a little moneymaker for the guys back in Lusaka and they are taking full advantage of the fact that Zimbabwe is down on its luck. $50 per person, poof! there goes way more of my USD than I had expected. On top, since we will be reentering to take the bus, I purchased a double-entry visa which set me back another $30 per person. How does this visa differ? She scribbles, in my passport "D/E" right above the stamp visa. Shame on you Zambia, you did not learn this in colonialism. On the other hand, I should have done my research and it is my choice to come here. But it is such a low way of getting money, I would forgive except that the taxes and fees on our tickets were already quite high (more than half the cost), and I noticed they charge fees on EXIT from the airport as well. I am sure they collect money at the hotels as well. People should boycott this stuff, sadly people will not.

Zimbabwe is cheaper on the other end, $30 per person, but the only reason this is such is to entice people to come over. The border crossing was interesting, our driver, Becki (guy) was really sharp and did a fantastic job managing the fact that other passengers had had their luggage lost by the airlines. He went well beyond the call of duty this Zimbabwean, and though being a driver is a good job, this is the type of individual who should have the opportunity for more impact in this sad country. He got us through the border crossings effectively and quickly, a process that you would expect would be a LOT simpler since so many people cross over, but the idea of symbiotic relationship, whether here or Swaziland/RSA is unthinkable. What makes the process more laborious is the fact that you have to pass first the exiting border post and then the entry border posts. The game then becomes to beat the guys you were in line with at the first place to the second place.

Zambia vs. Zimbabwe

This is always the question and the answer is always straightforward. Zimbabwe has the best views without a doubt. Supposedly Zambia is great too, but I fail to see that, you cannot get the full magnitude of the falls by staring over the ledge from which they originate. Also, as to Zimbabwe being far worse than Zambia since Mugabe's Land Reforms, I do not see that as being entirely accurate. Yes, more resorts exist on that side but Livingstone is a very ugly and destitute city, its airport and border posts are as sketchy as those of Zimbabwe. Where to stay? Fly in to Zimbabwe and stay in Zimbabwe, only because the Zambians have gotten too greedy and the differences are not significant enough. The hotels do appear to be better in Zambia though, but I don't think many of them are in walking distance as Ilala Lodge is.

Ilala Lodge

These guys are running their little bait and switch like everyone else around here it seems. Our room is nice, but at $280/night, I would expect something a bit better than this, especially when what is shown on the internet is not what you get. The property however is beautiful and I think we will enjoy our stay. My advice is to negotiate your rate and negotiate exactly what you will get. This is the same thing I should have done in Swaziland. The walk to the falls is interesting and is our first real venture into the "streets" of Africa. They are safe I would say but there are so few of us tourists and so many "hawks" that such an overwhelming inbalance cannot be healthy in the long run, especially as these guys are consistently and categorically refused. I feel there is a tension between the need to keep the few tourists they already have and squeezing them to give out more. Vic Falls is definitely in a tough spot, by this I mean, the people who live here and who are so reliant on tourism. It is a matter of time before someone gets mugged on this little route between the park and Vic Falls town. It will then be a matter of how well the local government can cover it up.

The Falls! The Falls!

Okay, finally to the point of our whole cavalcade to this neck of the Zambezi River - is it worth all of this money and trouble? Over $1300? Hard to put a price on these things, but sometimes you just have to give it some thought, especially with all of the hidden costs on this one. The falls are of course absolutely amazing, what makes it even better is how unadulterated they are. Niagara Falls is impressive but has been completely butchered on both sides. Here, you would never know there are viewing points on the Zimbabwean side if it weren't for people standing there. We saw a small antelope walking through the park and the flora is still present and thriving (in large part due to the very humid air). It is difficult to fully capture how impressive these falls are. The chasm the Zambezi forms is actually even difficult to capture on location. The thundering of the water and "rain" from the massive uplift of particled water overwhelms your senses. It is amazing, but if it wasn't for the combined experience of understanding the local condition, seeing, in a fleeting (but appropriate) fashion another side of the world, it would not be worthwhile. Finally, you sometimes have to explore a place, sometimes it is wonderful and meets the aspirations you have inside, and sometimes it doesn't. I am still on the fence and we still have a lot to experience here and in the rest of Africa.

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Photos

Victoria Falls
Looking from the bookend view point down the whole line.

Dr. Livingstone's Statue
"Discoverer" of the Falls, a doctor and missionary who went deeper into Africa than any before him, he also sought to end the slave trade.

At Victoria Falls
The picture looks a bit funny because the air is saturated with mist and water droplets making it very hard to get the settings right.

Devil's Cataract Falls
The westernmost of the waterfalls.

Devil's Cataract Falls
From further east, notice how unspoilt the area is.

Main Falls
The largest and most centrally-located on the kilometer-plus long falls.

At the Main Falls
We don't look wet but by this point we are pretty well wet. The goal is keeping the equipment dry.

Main Falls Head On
This one is the largest contributer to cloud formation right above the Falls. Heavy water mist and hot temperatures are the perfect ingredient.

Looking across to Zambia
The Zambezi River flows away below me and under the Victoria Falls Bridge around the bend (not visible).

Comments

[The Steiners]

touche
all very true, the trouble with the EU and USA is they are trying to keep you out, not sure which one is more pernicious - gratuitous extortion for fat cat despots or feigning humanitarian aims while denying the best opportunity to deliver assistance!

[Tsp]

zambia vs Zimbabwe
please be mindful when you present these blogs for people to understand. The infrastructure is meant to be as close to African as possible. The cost of viewing these falls is nothing to say niagara. And when you say things where stolen, yes they may have been stolen but that's not how all Zambians are. Zambians are really peaceful and inviting. We are not as developed in terms of infrastructure but that's what makes us a great destination. If you want a real African experience come to Zambia "the real Africa ". Learn the culture and understand the people, thats what its all about not just the falls. This way you will learn the real african experience. No I don't work for the government.

[The Steiners]

Zambia
I am not sure where the reference to theft is. My comment on the cultural flaws in the Zambezi basin is no condemnation of people, but of a "massed" phenomenon that is written off because individuals choose to be powerless to affect it. It is sad to say that the poor infrastructure is part of the interest. I wish more on Zambia than to settle as a third world country waiting for "hand outs" from the developed world and for tourists to come and look at them as some sort of caged animals in self-imposed substandard conditions as you suggest. That only propagates the vices of colonialism while veiling it with false altruism. Stand up Africa, especially African men, not enough of you are showing a good example to your progeny across the diaspora or at home. I love this continent and you can feel the hakuna matata, unfortunately that also yields an abdication of responsibility on a higher level.