Advertisement
Published: March 11th 2006
Jeepney
We have got used to spending many dusty hours in these uncomfortable but effective vehiclesBack in Puerto Princessa after spending 11 days on this island of Palawan. It is not known as the last frontier for nothing! We left Puerto early on the 2nd March to catch a jeepney to Port Barton. Trying to find out what time the jeepney left was a little tricky, generally the locals told us it could leave anywhere between 8 and 10am. So we left our pensionne early to make sure we didn't miss it, took a tricycle ride 20 minutes out of town to the bus terminal and found our jeepney. It only left at ten so we had to while away two hours in the dusty parking lot. At least we provided some entertainment for the locals. When we finally left, the jeepney was piled high with boxes, crates, chickens, sacks of rice etc etc, and along the way we even stopped to load up two bamboo poles of about 30 metres in length, which were to be used for a pump boat in Port Barton. These poles clanged and banged atop the roof of the jeepney the whole journey. A few hours later after a hectic ride, we were wishing we had had kidney belts. Everything
hurt and were as dirty as anything, our bags and us coated in a thick layer of dust from the dirt road.
Port Barton is a quiet little seaside town with a few resorts scattered along the beach, palm trees, lots of boats and very friendly villagers. We stayed in a resort called Swissippini and had the Sunset lodge, a thatched nipa hut up some steep wooden stairs, which caught the sea breeze and had great views over the bay. After our 4 hour bus ride we were starving and asked around for the local restaurant and came to Bamboo House, where we ate all our meals over the next 3 days. We chartered a boat and took an island hoping trip the next day. We went to 3 islands and snorkeled in an area called the Aquarium - not surprisingly named, as there were hundreds of reef fish swimming in amongst a beautiful coral garden. There were also lots of jellyfish and stinging plankton so it was quite uncomfortable with all the stings. We spent a few hours on Exotic island which had a beautiful white sandy beach to lie on and crystal clear water to swim in.
Lisa trying to score a free drink
Swissippini Guesthouse - Port Barton Vinning our boatman scaled a coconut tree and cut us down some young, green coconuts, and the fresh, sweet juice was so refreshing and tasty, slurped down in the hot sun.
There was a lovely laid back feeling to the town and we enjoyed three nights there. On our last day we hiked to a waterfall where we joined the local kids for a swim in the deep pool. Keith managed to scale the slippery rocks for a jump. The water was so cool and invigorating after the hot hike through the jungle. That evening we relaxed on our balcony and bought sundowners (a bottle of gin costs P30, about 30 pence) and some local Calamansi juice, which is just like lime juice.
Our journey to El Nido was not for the faint hearted. Our first hour in the jeepney to Roxas, was spent with bucket loads of fresh fish, so we had to hold our breath most of the way! There was only one bus going on to El Nido form there and we arrived for the connection just as "Sweety" bus pulled in to Roxas. Piled high with the usual boxes, bags and crates and this
Vinning our guide and boatman
Snorkelling and island hopping from Port Barton time with people on the roof. It did not look promising that we would manage to squeeze in, but everyone hustled up and we managed to get a seat. It was 4 to a seat and some live chickens thrown in for good measure, so we couldn't see forward or out the sides, so Keith got horribly car sick but managed not to actually do the deed! The road to El Nido was a rough one and we had to pull our shirts over our faces whenever another vehicle sped past as the dust was thick. We were filthy by the time we pulled in to El Nido, but we were so glad to get off the bus and out in to the fresh air. An experience we will truly never forget, but one which made us appreciate how people live here and the things we take for granted. The jeepneys are really tough vehicles, and it is amazing how they cope with all the weight and the rocky roads.
Once in El Nido, Keith sat down to recover whilst Lisa sought out a room along the beach. We found a lovely room with a veranda, hammocks on the
Lisa enjoying a coconut
Vinning scaled a tree on the beach to collect some coconuts for us - Port Barton beach and a beautiful view of the bay. El Nido town is full of character and so are the people. Even though parts of the town are ramshackle, there is a beautiful church and the setting is amazing. The town is set against huge, craggy limestone cliffs and out in the bay are several islands with cliffs dropping in to the sea. It feels like you are at the end of the earth... We were so glad we made the effort to get here and were rewarded with 5 days exploring the spectacular islands and beaches by boat and relaxing on some of the most idyllic and untouched beaches.
First on the list of tours to do was one of the Island Hopping tours. We jumped on board a boat called Seahorse with our boatman/guide Jaime, but were only 20 minutes off shore before the boat started to rattle and we were told there was a little problem with the engine. So we sat back, accustomed now to the bad luck we have had with boats and enjoyed the spectacular scenery. We putted along and snorkeled in the clear waters and then lazed on a sandy white beach whilst
Lounging about
The Filipinos are very creative especially with old car tyres. Exotic Island - Port Barton Jaime barbecued fresh fish for lunch. He managed to fix the engine so we were on our way again and this time we anchored the boat and climbed inside a massive limestone cave, and then swam inside another cave and climbed out on to the ricks deep inside. The water in the cave was full of fish eggs, so Lisa was very squeamish but had to swim through them to get to the other side.
The islands all have huge rocky outcrops covered in green forest and then every now and again there are coves and white beaches with turquoise water. On two other occasions we chartered boats out to some of the secluded islands, one where there was a huge, blue lagoon at the foot of a limestone cliff. We bought fresh mangoes and bananas from the village and ate those for lunch. We met Colombus Mango who is a local bird nester. He has 5 kids and does nesting to earn money for his family. He was very knowledgeable and told us all about El Nido. He loved practising his English and was very fascinated that a San Miguel could cost so much in London! In El
3 of a kind
These girls were more than happy to pose for Lisa - Port Barton Nido the beer costs P30 (about 30 pence!)
Paradise Beach was stunning - the name says it all. We had the beach to ourselves most of the day but for a few fisherman stopping by. It is a long sandy beach with lots of shade from the trees and beautiful aqua water for swimming. It was a lovely place to spend what would be our last day on the beach in the Philippines. Our last night we bought some sarongs from the local market and had dinner on the beach at Sea Slug. We can't believe our time in Asia has come to an end and we will definitely have to go back to Asia in the future. The Filipinos are truly awesome people, so friendly, kind and such an intersting mixture of western/American and traditional cultures.
Yesterday we woke to the sound of pouring rain but had to catch the boat south to Sabang as it only goes twice a week. So we climbed on board with 3 other passengers and the crew. Not long after leaving El Nido and the protection offered by the archipelago, we hit open sea and a huge storm. From then on
Waterfall - Port Barton
Worth the hike. Keith even joined the local youngsters and jumped off the cliff. it poured with rain and the huge swells came consistently at the boat, causing huge sprays of water to drench us. We were soaked to the bone and freezing cold in the wind. We laughed about it in the beginning but after 3 hours we weren't laughing any more! The worst part was having to get to the loo, which was just a little boxed off bucket on the back of the boat which you had to climb along the side of the boat to get to. In the pouring rain and rough sea this was quite something and there can honestly be nothing lie trying to take a p** in those kind of conditions, especially when there is no door to the loo and the crew are boiling there kettle just outside on the deck!
Finally we reached Sabang and had to jump of in to the sea and the crashing waves, not that it mattered, we were soaked already. It has been raining non stop all of yesterday and today so all our bags are wet and everything has that lovely damp smell.
Today we had to board a jeepney for a 3 hour drive to
Swissipinni - Port Barton
This was a great guesthouse right on the beach Puerto Princessa. We met Tanja from Switzerland and travelled together with her. There must have been about 40 people in the bus at one stage and we had to climb over the driver to get to a seat. The driver had someone wedged in on his left and right so he wasn't even sitting in front of the steering wheel, but at a 45 degree angle! We crawled slowly up the steep rocky hills on a dirt road now covered in deep pot holes and mud pools. It was amazing that we actually made it here at all, so convinced were we that this old jeepney was not going to hold up.
Tanja and Lisa spent this afternoon shopping whilst Keith spoilt himself with an aromatherapy massage. Tomorrow we have to fly to Manila and spend a night there before our flight to Hong Kong on Monday. Palawan has definitely been our favourite destination in the Philippines. The scenery is spectacular, the beaches out of this world and the people are real characters. Even though the travelling has been hard and treacherous at times, it was worth it in every way...
Advertisement
Tot: 0.171s; Tpl: 0.015s; cc: 15; qc: 70; dbt: 0.0863s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.3mb
Catherine Keough
non-member comment
Hi guys I LOVE getting your blogs. It is all so lovely, you are just having the best time. Looking foward to seeing you in May. Cath x