Parisian luck

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I didn't particularly want to go to Paris this fall, on this trip. I've been to Paris, seen it in fall and in summer and I was craving new locales, countries, venues. But when Dean and I asked the kids what they might want to do while in Europe, the only consistent answers we got were "climb the Eiffel Tower" and "see the Mona Lisa," and so to Paris we went.
Travel being travel, our plane was delayed, we got in to Paris in the dark, our cell phone wouldn't work the kids were cranky and we didn't know if we would connect with my nephew, Will, who was spending the weekend with us. But when we stepped out of the metro station we were transformed--it was Paris out there!! We stumbled down the (very cute) street where we'd booked an apartment (after some missteps with the map and fumbles with the entry code, and heard Will's voice above us, calling "hello family!".
We had rented an apartment in the Marais, an area I recalled as being up and coming but not all there. It has arrived. Our apartment was fabulous and recently redone. It was around the corner from the Picasso museum, which as luck had it, was closed for renovation, but the rest of the neighborhood was hopping with upscale shops and galleries, and delis and falafel places (which were always there, this traditionally being the Jewish quarter). We spent our first evening strolling the Rue du Roissy and eating falafel and crepes until we couldn't anymore.
The next day we visited Notre Dame and then headed up the Seine to see the Eiffel Tower by day but didn't climb, as the lines were too long. Walking away from the Tower, we stumbled on a wonderful international photography exhibit set right up along the river. We kept on stumbling, and fell into an open market on the to the metro and ate through some of the stalls: baguettes, fruit, nuts, and crepes to swoon over. We had sugared crepes and crepes with andouille sausages and crepes with goat cheese and herbs. I thought about my goat cheese crepe all day long. We saw rabbits with their skins still on, and crabs still crawling and ducks with their necks just twisted. There were legs of goats and lambs and calves all lined up with their hooves on and fish swimming and eggs that were still warm. There were apples just off the tree and carrots and potatoes with the dirt still on. I loved it all.


We headed home for a little rest and met up with Stephanie, our RA back at the Venice house, who was also weekending in Paris. We strolled up to the Place des Vosges to give the kids some play time and chill with the Parisians. After cocktails chez nous, we headed out for more food on the Rue du Roissy, where the crowds were local and boisterous and hungry. We feasted on roast chicken and schwarma and falafel (again!) and crepes (again!). Then off to the Arc du Triomphe, to see it lit up for nighttime. No one was waiting, so we climbed to the top, which boasts one of the best views of Paris. While standing up there, deciding how long to stay, a girl came up to Stephanie and asked, "when does the tower sparkle again?" We stayed put: sure enough, just across the river, the Eiffel Tower came to life in a shower of sparkling light. In celebration of the 120th anniversary of the tower, a light show goes on four times a night. It is crazy--flashing, pulsating lights and psychedelic colors and music. We loved it (kitschy though it was), and vowed to see it again--from the source itself.
The next day was the first Sunday of the month--free day at the Louvre! After hanging around the Tuilieries, the wonderful park in the middle of the city, we walked over to the Louvre, where the line was hours long. As if by magic, a nice security man waved us over to another entrance (the lion's entrance) and we walked right in. I loved on some of the African and pre-Columbian art and hung around a painting by Carpaccio. Then the Mona Lisa. Said the kids: "it was okay" and "I thought it would be bigger." It just isn't the same painting at a distance and behind glass. Can anyone really SEE the Mona Lisa?
We left the Louvre pondering that question and headed to the Musee d'Orsay--after all, it was free day! And everyone knew it. The line was daunting, wrapping all around the building into the street beyond. We decided to stand in it while discussing our options--stay or go? As we queued up, a nice security guard came over and pulled us out of line and took us to the "reserved for groups" line. We don't know why (the kids?), but we didn't argue and walked right in. We went up to the cafe for a little lunch and after a few minutes of waiting, a lovely table for six opened up! We laughed at our good luck and ate a wonderful lunch--salads and quiches and pastas and cheese platters. And then off to look at art. I looked in on Van Gogh (he'd moved since I was last there) and some of the Art Deco furniture. Gabriel wanted to know what all the fuss was--why were we running around Europe looking at art all the time? Dean, in patient father mode, showed him a thing or two, and a blue Cezanne later, we think he had a breakthrough. Now he says, "it was cool, man. It was boring, a little." Will any of it stick?

We headed out to rest the kids before venturing out again, grabbing more falafel on the way. Stephanie and Will headed to hear an organ recital at Notre Dame and then we rendevouzed (is that really a word?)for the next outing: The Eiffel Tower climb. Never mind that it was raining. Never mind that we were tired. We were on a mission.
We got there and there was NO LINE. We laughed at our good fortune once again, and climbed stairs up to the terrace level. There Stephanie and I bagged out and the guys took the lift up all the way to the top. By all accounts, it was wind-whipped, swaying and wild! The light show started and it was all out of control up there! I was blissfully happy to be experiencing it all from a sane height. The four guys henceforth dubbed themselves "men of the summit." Stephanie got roped into a questionnaire on the way out and won souveniers for the kids. We felt as though we'd won some weird Paris lottery.
What else? Left bank the next day to see the building where I'd spent a happy summer some years ago. Then to a bistro for a warm lunch of roast chicken and pommes frites and pasta, and a look at a small Gothic church, the lovely San Severin.

We loved every minute of it!

Mission accomplished, we headed to bed for an early morning flight to Barcelona.

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Photos

Our crepe man
Our favorite crepe stop on the rue du Roissy

Paris market 2
An abundance of flowers, fruit, vegetables and more.

Banks of the Seine
The banks of the river Seine--a UNESCO world heritage site.

On the Seine
Will, Gabriel, Ari, Stephanie and me on the river near the Ile St. Louis.

Busker under the bridge
There were street performers all over Paris. This was a one-man band, singing and playing jazz standards.

Comments

[Elizabeth]

Ahhh Paris. I think it is a city that is so much more alive when you are there with a "first timer". Somehow all the colors, tastes, and smells are new again.