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Published: September 18th 2009
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So we left Mendoza, and took our first overnight bus in South America - wow! We paid a little extra to be in 'First Class', so we had an actual bed to sleep on. It went completely flat with a nice pillow and blanket, we even got Champagne (OK so it was fizzy wine, but still wow!). We only journeyed for 10 hours (we've done longer on a day bus) to Cordoba but thought as we're in a country renowned for its bus travel we should give it a try - we weren't disappointed.
Cordoba itself was nothing amazing, just another city built by the Spanish with wide streets on a very boring grid pattern. The reason we went there was to visit some of the older towns in the surroundings. We visited Alta Gracia, a town similar to many with an old Jesuit mission and museum. The Jesuits came over and built a lot of missions, setting up local education establishments and funding them by farming and making wine. They imported a whole bunch of black slaves from Africa to provide the labour, but apparently treated them quite well (still didn't pay them though!!). Alta Gracia is also famous
for being home to Ernesto 'Che' Guevara, the guy who travelled round South America during his medical studies, then decided being a revolutionary was much more interesting so helped Fidel Castro take control of Cuba. The museum made from his house is quite interesting, with a lot of the history of his childhood. The next day we visited Jesus Maria, with another Jesuit estancia (farm), this one was more out of town, set in lovely grounds so we chilled out for a while near the pond after our tour round.
After leaving Cordoba, we headed to Cafayate - our favourite place yet in South America (and we've been to a few nice places). The hostel was amazing, with our room opening onto a courtyard to sit and relax in. The staff there were so helpful and told us about a town close by with a guy who has horses, you can turn up and he'll take you out round the countryside as long as you want. In order to find him, we jumped in a 'colectivo' (like a taxi, but its a car that goes a set route for a set price and only leaves when its full). We
were pasengers 4 and 5, but it didn't matter as two guys squashed into the passenger seat, with the other three of us in the back. We didn't have Roque's address, only his name, but it didn't matter as the driver seemed to know the whole town and took us right to his farm! We headed off with Roque for a three hour jaunt round the surrounding countryside (Dave has never ridden a horse, and Gayle hasn't for many years) on a couple of very well behaved horses. It was a lovely day, we visited a brewery for a quick taste (only a small one as its 8% beer!) then headed off to the river (dry) and up and down a few hills. We did pay for it the next few days, having to walk very slowly and not sit down too long for fear of our legs stiffening up again! To get back, the same colectivo came back for us, did a couple of circuits of town for more passengers, then brought us back to Cafayate - perfect!
The town is famous for its bodegas (wineries) so we obviously had to partake of a tipple or two to
check the rumours were true - and they were, the wine was lovely, as was the goats cheese from the factory we visited. Walter from the hostel took us on a tour of the Quebrada (canyon) de Cafayate, leading North from town, for an afternoon. It was absolutely amazing, the rocks are so many different colours from their geological composition (terracota sandstone, white limestone and green rocks from copper deposits, among others). The area was under the sea until the Andes popped up and made Chile, hence all the crazy and beautiful colours. Walter's old banger of a car broke down on the way home, so we had to hitch a ride back (no mobile phone coverage or AA out here!!), getting to the hostel just in time for a parrilla (big barbeque with tons of meat - beef of course!). There was a big group of us, from all over the World and we had a lovely time sitting, chatting, drinking wine (red, of course!) until about 2am.
We had a chill out (read: recovery!) day the next day, then took the bus an hour South to the ruins of Quilmes. The fortified town was inhabited by 10,000
fierce warriors, who managed to resist the Inca's, but eventually fell to the Spaniards, who cleared the town and moved everyone to Buenos Aires - 1500 kilometres away (nice!). It got privatised in the nineties (the government sold it to a business man for a couple of Pesos), then the locals decided they wanted it back as it was an important part of their heritage. They tried legal routes but failed, so blocked the road in until the owner left. It is now run by a co-operative of local people, and has guides to show you around the ruins of the town. We went it alone as our Spanish isn't up to it yet, but enjoyed wandering around the area.
Next stop was Salta, initially for a couple days as its supposed to be a good centre for activities, however its just another big city and we'd already done plenty (for cheaper) in Cafayate so we left after a day to get to Humahuaca. Its very nice here in Humahuaca, but for some reason quite expensive for a small town. Its a Quechuan town so the streets are cobbled and narrow, with lovely little adobe houses. It really feels
like South America! We're going to spend a few days relaxing, and getting aclimatised (its at 3000 metres above sea level), before heading off to Bolivia - the poorest country in South America...
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Bob Ward
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Jealous or what!!
You guys are really having a fabulous time - I am so envious - you will have had the real trip of a lifetime and I think the UK is going to be a little boring on your return!! Continue to have fun Bob