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Published: August 11th 2009
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Ferry to Sunshine Coast
on the ferry between Comox and Powell River; the ferry boat captain warned the motorcyclists: wear your rain gear. The mainland coast of British Columbia from Powell River south to Vancouver is called the "Sunshine Coast," because it's in a rain shadow caused by the mountains on Vancouver Island; thus it's often sunny. Not this week.
Rain started on the ferry crossing from the island to the mainland at Powell River. I had camping reservations but did not want to camp in the rain. (I saw that people here do camp in the rain, but they are hardier than I am and also handier with tarps, ropes, bungee cords, and poles. They build tarp shelters to augment their camps.) So I stayed at a little motel south of Powell River, my favorite motel so far, with a tiny bathroom, dishes in the tiny kitchen, and a view across the strait. When I told the clerk my name she asked me if I was related to Jack Tuell. Turns out my father and mother stayed in the same place back in 2003 and are still in the Villa Motel computer.
I drove north from Powell River to the end of Hwy 101, the same 101 that's called the Ventura Freeway in Los Angeles. It ends in a little pier
Ferry Rope
Just cool looking, I think in the little town of Lund. North of that, no roads, just islands and kayak routes and a ferry ride or two, all the way north to Bella Coola. However, after a beautiful wet country road with no traffic, in Lund there was a traffic jam. Absolutely no parking. So I did not get a picture of the terminus of this great North American Highway.
On the way there, I saw a First Nations graveyard. I like how the Canadians call the Indians, or Native Canadians, the First Nations. I think that's more politically pleasing than "Native Americans." After all, I am a native American. But I'm not a member of a First Nation.
Today the rain came down harder. I went south to the ferry at Saltery Bay. (You must take two ferries to drive the Sunshine Coast. Highway 101 does not go around the bays.) When we landed at Earls Cove, it was damp but not raining, so Molly and I went to Skookumchuck Narrows PPark, where there's a 2-mile trail through the forest to the narrows. It was a great hike, beautiful and interesting. At the narrows you see where three different bays move in
First Nation Graves
Along Hwy 101 between Powell River and Lund and out with the tides, creating whirlpools and rapids. On the way back, it started to actually and consistently rain. We were both quite wet when we got back to the car. We passed lots of Canadians hiking in the rain too, often with no hats or raincoats, in shorts, wearing sandals. They take the rain in stride.
South to the second ferry to Horseshoe Bay, at the north end of Vancouver. This ferry is enormous. It loads more cars, campers, pickups hauling boats and trailers, Volvos with kayaks tied to their roofs, and huge semi trucks than it seems possible could cross the water without sinking the vessel. But they manage. Rain relentless here.
I remember as a kid riding the ferries, watching the gruff tough men who loaded the vehicles and slammed the gates. Now, women often do these jobs, some young women in big clunky black work boots, leather gloves, and safety vests directing traffic, hauling rope, locking gates. It's a testament to how much the (North American) world has changed.
I'm in Whistler now. I'm sure the drive up here is spectacular when it's clear. It's even spectacular in the rain, but a
little hair-raising. I'm at a pricey hotel. No money for a pricey restaurant. But Molly and me, we're fine. We're changing our plans tomorrow because of the rain. We'll let you know.
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wendy
non-member comment
rain????
It's going to be 94 degrees here today! The motel sounds great. Hope Molly's wound is better.