Rainy Sunshine Coast


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August 11th 2009
Published: August 11th 2009
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Ferry to Sunshine CoastFerry to Sunshine CoastFerry to Sunshine Coast

on the ferry between Comox and Powell River; the ferry boat captain warned the motorcyclists: wear your rain gear.
The mainland coast of British Columbia from Powell River south to Vancouver is called the "Sunshine Coast," because it's in a rain shadow caused by the mountains on Vancouver Island; thus it's often sunny. Not this week.

Rain started on the ferry crossing from the island to the mainland at Powell River. I had camping reservations but did not want to camp in the rain. (I saw that people here do camp in the rain, but they are hardier than I am and also handier with tarps, ropes, bungee cords, and poles. They build tarp shelters to augment their camps.) So I stayed at a little motel south of Powell River, my favorite motel so far, with a tiny bathroom, dishes in the tiny kitchen, and a view across the strait. When I told the clerk my name she asked me if I was related to Jack Tuell. Turns out my father and mother stayed in the same place back in 2003 and are still in the Villa Motel computer.

I drove north from Powell River to the end of Hwy 101, the same 101 that's called the Ventura Freeway in Los Angeles. It ends in a little pier
Ferry RopeFerry RopeFerry Rope

Just cool looking, I think
in the little town of Lund. North of that, no roads, just islands and kayak routes and a ferry ride or two, all the way north to Bella Coola. However, after a beautiful wet country road with no traffic, in Lund there was a traffic jam. Absolutely no parking. So I did not get a picture of the terminus of this great North American Highway.

On the way there, I saw a First Nations graveyard. I like how the Canadians call the Indians, or Native Canadians, the First Nations. I think that's more politically pleasing than "Native Americans." After all, I am a native American. But I'm not a member of a First Nation.

Today the rain came down harder. I went south to the ferry at Saltery Bay. (You must take two ferries to drive the Sunshine Coast. Highway 101 does not go around the bays.) When we landed at Earls Cove, it was damp but not raining, so Molly and I went to Skookumchuck Narrows PPark, where there's a 2-mile trail through the forest to the narrows. It was a great hike, beautiful and interesting. At the narrows you see where three different bays move in
First Nation GravesFirst Nation GravesFirst Nation Graves

Along Hwy 101 between Powell River and Lund
and out with the tides, creating whirlpools and rapids. On the way back, it started to actually and consistently rain. We were both quite wet when we got back to the car. We passed lots of Canadians hiking in the rain too, often with no hats or raincoats, in shorts, wearing sandals. They take the rain in stride.

South to the second ferry to Horseshoe Bay, at the north end of Vancouver. This ferry is enormous. It loads more cars, campers, pickups hauling boats and trailers, Volvos with kayaks tied to their roofs, and huge semi trucks than it seems possible could cross the water without sinking the vessel. But they manage. Rain relentless here.

I remember as a kid riding the ferries, watching the gruff tough men who loaded the vehicles and slammed the gates. Now, women often do these jobs, some young women in big clunky black work boots, leather gloves, and safety vests directing traffic, hauling rope, locking gates. It's a testament to how much the (North American) world has changed.

I'm in Whistler now. I'm sure the drive up here is spectacular when it's clear. It's even spectacular in the rain, but a
tropical plant on the sunshine coasttropical plant on the sunshine coasttropical plant on the sunshine coast

at the Saltery Bay Ferry dock
little hair-raising. I'm at a pricey hotel. No money for a pricey restaurant. But Molly and me, we're fine. We're changing our plans tomorrow because of the rain. We'll let you know.


Additional photos below
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raindrops on ferryraindrops on ferry
raindrops on ferry

taken through my car window on the ferry from Saltery Bay to Earls Cove
2nd growth rain forest2nd growth rain forest
2nd growth rain forest

on the Skookumchuck Narrows Trail
Skookumchuck NarrowsSkookumchuck Narrows
Skookumchuck Narrows

The tides rush back and forth here like a rapid river


11th August 2009

rain????
It's going to be 94 degrees here today! The motel sounds great. Hope Molly's wound is better.
11th August 2009

Cindy--the Earl's Cove pic is gorgeous!! I love the layers of grey.
11th August 2009

Ah, Northwest rain
I sympathize. I remember a really disasterous camping trip on the Little Susitna River in Alaska when the second day it started raining and never stopped and the tent leaked like mad and the river rose and rose, washing equipment away. It was my mom, my brothers and I and two friends of my brothers. All in one tent since the other one was just a sieve. It's sounds beautiful though and you are coping like a trooper. Cool your folks were in the same motel. John had his 62nd birthday yesterday which was cool and Crystal called for along chat. More later. Love, Fran

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