A long road to Dandeli, Karnataka

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11th January 2009

At 5am we were all up and having breakfast of toast and coffee. Our driver Edmond arrived at 6am. Our trip to Kanataka was a long and tedious 8hrs winding through the glorious jungle and mountains of the Western Ghats. 80% of the journey was along very basic roads in dire need of repair with massive pot holes caused by the relentless pounding from the hundred of Lorries taking Iron ore from the mines and also the annual monsoons. We saw a couple of Lorries abandoned and hanging of the cliff roads, this was a little unnerving to say the least. Everybody seemed to driver at the maximum speed possible and barely slowly to negotiate the hundreds of hairpin corners either going up or down the mountain. I just watched the jungle go by and for brief moment drifted off to sleep until being jolted awake by another pothole.

We made a brief stop at a place called Karwar for refreshments and to stretch our sore and stiff limbs. We were right by the sea shore and the local fishermen were repairing the nets. Above us in the sky were dozens of Black and Brahminy kites playing and competing fro fish scrap on the beach. Pili found some friendly cows by where we had parked and fed them peanut brittle. The calf and mother were very appreciative and nuzzled up to her giving the occasional sloppy lick. This gave me the opportunity to take some really nice pictures without Pili realising as I was across the road from the group. David was also happily snapping away.

We eventually arrived at the Government Tiger Reserve. We had been led to believe that accommodation would be in the region of 200-300Rs a night, not so! Because we were foreigners we were given a rate 3 times that of David who was Indian. This made my blood boil and I told them so explaining that if they visited my country and penalised them because of the colour of their skin there would be riots in the street. We were told that this is quite normal and approved by the government. We were also told that to go on the safari we had to stay in this crummy, filthy resort. I decided to order some coffee and talk it through with everyone. We decided to tell them where they can stick their racist resort and try and find a sign we had passed just half an hour away. The sign had read ‘Bison River Resort’. We found the place with no major problems; it was situated right on the banks of the river. I negotiated a rate for the four of us for a 2 night stay with meals all inclusive. I saved us 12000Rs which I was very pleased about. We all unpacked and David and I headed for the bar for a well deserved cold beer. Valerie and Pili decided to jump in a coracle and take the chance for a natural Jacuzzi in one of the weirs across the river. The setting of this place was idyllic. We right in the jungle and the birdlife was all around us. The river basin just 50ft from our chalet is the roosting area for colonies of the Malabar and Pied Hornbill, I’ve waited all my life to see these birds in their natural habitat and I wouldn’t be disappointed.

After the girls returned from the Jacuzzi the grabbed the riverside hammock and immediately fell asleep. I arranged for us to be taken on a jungle walk at 4pm so David also took the chance for a quick siesta. I was too excited to sleep and walked around the resort waiting for the Hornbills to arrive.

I woke everybody a 3:30pm for coffee before we set out for the jungle. The guided walk lasted just under 2hrs. We really didn’t see too much, it was the wrong time of the day really but we did have a nice walk. I did spot a Paradise Flycatcher with its long streamer like whit tail. Unfortunately it was some distance from us and with the low light values and dense vegetation I couldn’t get a photo.

In the evening I arranged for myself and Edmond our driver to go on a night walk. David had brought along his very powerful torch, complete with battery pack and I had to go out and look for nocturnal jungle life. Before this though we had a lovely meal and shared a bottle of red wine.

At 10pm we set off into the night with our guide. We found flying squirrels and a Sable Deer; all were betrayed from the reflections from their eyes. I’ve seen this on many documentaries but I’ve never had the chance to experience this myself, it was an exhilarating experience and when I settle wherever that may be I need to get myself a torch like David’s. We also got very close to what may have been a leopard. Just before heading back to the resort our guide wanted us to check out the local banana plantation. As we walked along the path shining the light into the tree tops I heard something large walking parallel to us on the other side of a bamboo thicket. We all froze and we could hear it moving around quite clearly. Our guide though it may be a wild pig but I don’t think so. I could tell from the rhythm of the animals footsteps that it was some kind of cat and definitely not a pig, a pig would have betrayed its presence by it snorting through the leaf matter. I would have loved to have seen the beast but my guide insisted we get out of there and head back, oh well the pussy cats will have to wait.

12th January 2009

I was woken up by the girls at 6am to go a watch the sunrise from the riverbank. It was a bit of a disappointment because we were so high up in the mountains and the jungle surrounded us. By the time the sun rose over the tree line the red sunrise had long gone. The girls decided to get some more sleep while I again headed out with another English couple of birdwatcher, Ron and Maggie. After a delayed breakfast we climbed aboard our jeep so that we could explore further a field. Our guide took us to several section of the forest and I had a good conversation with him. He told me that he’d really enjoyed walking with me because of my knowledge of the local wildlife. I spotted a Vernal Hanging Parrot which is India’s only true Parrot. It was hanging upside down as it name suggests about 50ft in the canopy. This species is now becoming very rare and I was overjoyed to by able to get a couple of photos before it took off and disappeared into the dense jungle. I also spotted a White Rumped Shama, Tickles Blue Flycatcher, a Serpent Eagle soaring high above the canopy and loads of tiny but magnificent sunbirds. The last stop on the trip was to a 1 acre lake near a small village. It was beautiful with flowering lillypads and Water Buffalo stood in the water drinking and eating the flowers. A band of Black Faced Langer Monkies also came down to the water to drink. On the lake itself were a small flock of Lesser Whistling Duck, a couple of Little Grebe, Grey Herons, Red Wattled Lapwings, several Egrets and a couple of Bronzed Winged Jacana tip toeing across the lillypads. Swimming across the lake were the ever present Swallows and Swifts and high above were the soaring raptors of several species. I just love this place and it’s a shame we have to leave tomorrow, I could do with a couple of months just to explore the local area.

We arrived back at the resort at 1:45pm just in time for lunch, I was starving. After finishing my meal I headed straight for the riverside hammock that the girls had used yesterday. Cradling a cold beer I was soon asleep with a smile on my face dreaming of the Tigers I hope we were going to see tomorrow.

At 4pm the girls woke me for coffee before we set out on a Coracle trip up the Bison River. The coffee went down very well and I was fired up for the trip. We spent just over an hour on the river and saw Langer Monkies, White Throated Kingfisher and of course the fantastic Hornbills. We eventually came to a riverside sandbank where the Hornbills take their daily dust bath to remove the ants and other bugs that they collect during the days while foraging among the fruit trees. Seventeen birds came together and seemed to really enjoy the relief the dust bath gave them. It was a great wildlife moment and another ambition ticked off the list.

On the way back we stopped off and the weirs and went ashore to take some more photos before crossing the river back to the resort.

In the evening we were treated to a wonderful BBQ and stuffed ourselves silly. We then told that this was just an appetizer and that the main meal was Chinese which was piping hot and ready for us. The staff had forgot to mention this to us and the other guests and we were all filled to the gills and couldn’t eat another morsel which was a shame as the Chinese looked and smelt superb.

We were joined by my bird watching companions from this morning, Maggie and Ron and spent a couple of hours with a couple of brandies and a good conversation before hitting the pillow exhausted. Tomorrow we have a long days travelling south to Shimoga

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Photos

So does Pili
David and I are at the bar

Comments

[Mushtaq Shaikh]

Nature's miracle of real Beauty
i love Dandeli,when twice visited i cant forget it's real beauty in india,green dence attracts me a lot here,if someone want a real peace come here and spend a little time in the vicinity of the nature and true pleasure of wild life.....thanks

[balaji]

thanks imran pathan for inviteing to dandeli ,it was a great place to ce dear we miss u imran