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Published: February 23rd 2009
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cafe terrace lit by the moon
place du Forum, Arles France. van Gogh painted here, on such a night. A game of Petanque When we were planning the trip along the coast from Barcelona to Antibes, Keith thought about hiring a car and we would have a leisurely drive, town to town. But the cost to return a car in a different country from where it was rented was too expensive. So we sat in a comfy train seat and enjoyed the view! When ever we passed the sections of highway, I had to laugh to myself, thinking of how the drive might had been, with me "nagivating"!
As we got near to Arles, the country side outside the window turned into familiar undeveloped salt marsh. But then the flamingos wading in the lagoon reminded us that we weren't riding by the intracoastal waterway! Our destination of Arles, is at the extreme northern boundary of this French delta.
From the train station, we had it figured out that the walk-way by the river would lead us to our hotel. Stopping to check the map again and again, we still couldn't find it. And luckily there was one of those little travel angels that stepped up and took us to the right place. We looked for the gentleman, with
his beret cap and sunglasses, for the remainder of our time, but never noticed him again. I like to think that he was always nearby incase we looked like we needed him again.
A quiet little town, was welcomed after the city hussle and bussle of Barcelona. The ancient Roman Arena and classical theatre are being refurbished, but are none the less impressive. We were literally the only people in the arena, and looking out over the empty town was the benefit of off season travel.
As you know, Vincent van Gogh, and his little yellow house are famously linked to Arles. The town has done a nice job of highlighting the locations he painted. So we went on a van Gogh treasure hunt, tracking down the panels placed on the spots where he might have placed his easel. Ten, of the hundreds of paintings that he did while living here, are represented. This is one of those memories that will stay with us, having those spots to ourselves. And imagining Vincent carrying his paints and easel through town, contemplating the location.
Besides the sights that are exclusively Arles, we made our usual visit to the
cemetery, and the outdoor market. In the cemetery, Keith had to drag me away from the crowded aisles of grave sites with their little rusty enameled plaques, and lichen covered crosses. These touching places are cared for, the watering cans are closeby to tend to the plants.
Or course, meals on these trips are always a highlight. We tend to go to the places that are recommended by the hotels, and our trusty guide book. At one such restaurant, we walk in the front door and sittting alone was the cook. Dressed in his white coat, with a bottle of wine and loaf of bread. Just a bite to eat and a little drink, before he began his work!
One more train ride to Antibes, and the French Riviera!
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zsteve
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Roman Arles
Thank you for taking me back to Arles. I did recognise most of the places. And of course I recognised PAUL'S where you can get the most delicious chocolate chaude (hot chocolate), try it out next time.