Cyprus

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In July of 2008 I spent about 11 days in Cyprus. I was lucky because a good friend of mine, Theano, is from Cyprus and was there when I visited. She and her sister, Petroula, were great tour guides and I was fortunate enough to get to spend time with their family and to eating great meals with them! I was also able to visit with families of two other friends Maria and Theodora and I felt like all I did was eat . . . Maria's Mom makes the best cake! . . . and Theodora's family had so much good food! So, it's always different when you get the chance to visit another country and spend time with natives.

I stayed in Larnaka and was able to take in most of the island on day trips from there. I was able to get to the Turkish controlled north side of the island, the capital Nicosia, the Agia Napa area in the southeast with the great beaches, the Troodos mountains in the center of the island, and Limossol in the south. Unfortunately, I didn't get to see the western coast which is more inaccessible but has much natural beauty. I would say the natural beauty highlight of my trip was my visit to Konnos Bay on the southeast side of the island near Agia Napa. I would highly recommend a visit. The water at Konnos extends far out into the bay at shallow levels, with very clear blue water, and warm temperatures. The food highlight outside of the homemade meals was the seafood meze in Larnaca where the food just kept coming and coming. Also, the gelato row around the waterfront in Larnaca was a staple. My late afternoon routine after traveling during the day was to run from my hotel room that was above a sandwich shop along the beach in Larnaca out to the Hala Sultan Tekke mosque and back--but, I would stop 15 minutes early and stash a couple euros in my shorts for a gelato.

It felt a bit strange being on a divided island that is still licking its wounds from the Turkish invasion in 1974. If you go on the north side of Nicosia you must pass through a checkpoint and show your passport. There are some interesting buildings to see in that area of the city but, for the most part, the city appears neglected. In general, the north side of the island still had the feel of a "squatters land" where the Turks had makeshift businesses in buildings and no sense of permanency. And, indeed, the wounds are still fresh as I was held up for a half hour at a lace shop that I had entered to get my Mom some gifts as the owner relived the whole invasion and was able to articulate in much detail the many countries and governments that failed to come to the Greek Cypriot defense. Kyrenia certainly has a picturesque harbor but Famagusta, that once boasted of some of the most picturesque beaches in Cyprus, now appears to be more of a shell of a city that depends on sales to the busloads of tourists that come through.

While I was warned that Cyprus was a rather expensive destination I didn't find it too bad. My room was nice and 46 euros a night. I practically lived on halloumi (white cheese) and lountza (smoked pork) sandwiches which are tasty and omnipresent on the island. The bus system on the island is also very affordable as just a few euros will take you to either side of the island.

A couple other suggestions:
-Walk through the farmers market on a Sat. morning in Larnaca
-Walk the backstreets of Limassol and Larnaca
-Read up on the history of Cyprus before going

In sum--go to Agia Napa for the best beach experience. The beach in Larnaca has the nightlife. The Troodos mountains have trails for hiking. Nicosia is unique expression of a divided capital.

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Photos

Church of Lazarus in Larnaca
Some records say that Lazarus came to Cyprus and was buried here--the church was built in the 9th century

Comments

[deleted_112642]

nice pics
Really like your photos! they are very good. I am living in cyprus now but going home soon and think i'll make the effort to see that church before i leave.