50. January: Turning over a new fern


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Oceania » New Zealand » North Island » Auckland » Central
January 31st 2009
Published: March 15th 2009
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(N) On the deck aboard a boat in Sydney Harbour, I wasn’t aware of the countdown to midnight but suddenly Paula saw the numbers being projected onto the stout bridge supports. Fireworks exploded all around the harbour and the opera house, and finally the bridge itself went up in a shower of golden lights, the result of a $5m (£2.5m) spend on more than 11,000 shells, witnessed by around 1.5m people. It had been a great party on the boat, and there was still another hour before we were disgorged back onto dry land.

In the Sydney Morning Herald of that day, a journalist had written that NYE is such a big event in Australia so that "the old finishes with an exclamation mark and the new one begins with a fluorescent asterisk”.

On New Year’s Day the weather was still baking. We took a ferry for half an hour to Watson’s Bay, a very scenic journey and favourite place of Alex and Cevan for afternoon fish ‘n’ chips, and a small sandy bay for a much-needed dip. But it was overcast on 2nd January, the day we chose to go sunbathing on Bondi Beach (leading dad to call
Ben and Nick emerge from the surfBen and Nick emerge from the surfBen and Nick emerge from the surf

Stormy Day, Bondi Beach, Sydney
it ‘cloud bathing’). That didn’t stop Paula, Ben and I going into the ocean, which was warmer than expected and one of the most powerful water experiences we have ever had, impossible to stay standing upright and like being inside a washing machine when swimming. That morning we had been to a Bondi Beach black and white photo exhibition of times past, around the 1930s, talking about the new craze of bikinis (“swoon costumes”) while advising that “outsized people should not wear them”, and showing people 70 years ago doing acrobatics (“beachobatics”) on the sands, including one Mr Walter “No Nerves” Balmus, who also liked to do handstands on the edge at the top of tall buildings.

Our last night together as a family was in a BYO restaurant for the first time, but which was a concept that we fully embraced with our combined hauls from the vineyards of Hunter Valley and beyond.

Mum & Dad and Paula & I travelled to NZ the following day, overcast when we got there but the sun was back with a vengeance the next day, which was just as well because we had planned to go to Waiheke Island, the
Mudbrick vineyard, Waiheke IslandMudbrick vineyard, Waiheke IslandMudbrick vineyard, Waiheke Island

Nick, Georgie & Huw soak up the wine & views
subtropical island 45 minutes from Auckland famous for its picturesque coves and vineyards. We collected a hire car and zoomed to the hill of Mudbrick Vineyard, a fairly well-known winery in NZ, which gave one of the best views we have seen in our time in this part of the world, across the aquamarine waters of the Gulf, with Auckland and Rangitoto Island in the distance. After a spot of tasting we soaked up the vista and did in fact contemplate not moving for the day, but gave in to curiosity and drove the approx 60km round the island’s coastline, stopping for lunch at the family-focused but exotically-named Palm Beach, and to see Stony Batter, an area of farmland covered in boulders said to be the result of a volcanic eruption 7 million years ago. Stony Batter also has a network of tunnels that can be visited, dug in secret during WW2 in anticipation of a Japanese invasion that didn’t materialise.

Before Mum and Dad left Auckland, we visited Auckland’s highest natural point, the extinct volcanic cone of Mount Eden, for views of the city, and went to dinner at the top of the Sky Tower, which is the
Up the Sky Tower, AucklandUp the Sky Tower, AucklandUp the Sky Tower, Auckland

Our apartment block (tall & white) in the background!
city’s major landmark by some distance. The glass-bottomed lift rose us up 190m, we had time to check out the 360o panorama before sitting at a window seat while the moving floor gave us another full-circle view, taking one hour to do a complete rotation. The next morning, M&D were off to continue their NZ travels.

Paula said recently that she was keen to do a triathlon, “because we’re in New Zealand”, as if that was justification enough. Fair enough, it is not an uncommon sport here, but equally I have never attempted bull-fighting when in Spain, basketball while in the USA, diving when in Italy (football joke), caber tossing while in Scotland, husky-riding when in Finland or, for that matter, cheese-rolling in England, and I consider all of the above more preferable than a triathlon. So I tried to see how keen she was by proposing a mini-duathlon: a 6km run followed by a 400m swim in our pool. But there was no decrease in her enthusiasm afterwards. The fact that we don’t have bikes makes us 33.3 % ineligible to take part in a triathlon but whether this will be the end of the matter remains to be seen.

As elsewhere around the world, there were also protests in Auckland about Israel's intervention in Gaza. I wouldn’t have mentioned it other than we happened to be at the Post Office on the Saturday morning when the demo took place…which was right next to the American Embassy. So we were faced with it on exit, possible narrowly escaping injury as scores of shoes were hurled against the neighbouring building!

(P) Having been away from our Auckland place over Christmas but with mini Christmas pudding gifts waiting patiently in the cupboard, I decided to crack them open and thereby test my custard making skills. Alas, the results weren’t aesthetically pleasing but we enjoyed the taste of Christmas despite the disappointment (see photo comparisons, below). Whilst on the subject of food, we have encountered a new concoction referred to as “Scroggin” which usually appears here as a type of chocolate or breakfast cereal. Vogel’s describes it as “The classic Kiwi kick-start for a day on the go!” Vogel’s also taught me that it’s an acronym for the ingredients of Sultanas, Chocolate, Raisins, Orange peel, Ginger, Glucose, Imagination and Nuts. So there you are, and it's yum.

We have been very fortunate to enjoy very good summer weather so far this year (and happy since the one we just missed before arriving last May has been oft-quoted as “the best in a long time”). This has made for some stunning sunset views from our flat of the clear skies turning gradually from blue to pink to orange and purple before the dark sets in around 9pm.

Only 2 months behind, we went out for my ‘Birthday Evening’ since a bad cough forced me to take a rain check on the actual day (last October!) It was certainly worth the wait as Nick whisked me off first to the Hilton’s Bellini Bar before my restaurant choice of Rikka in Victoria Park Market. Nick especially liked the chilled ceramic mugs of beer whilst I was impressed with green tea, scallops and generously laden sushi.

(N) At the end of the month, I headed to Christchurch ahead of Paula to catch up with mum and dad who were on the last leg of their self-drive tour of NZ. We headed to the seaside village of Akaroa (“Long Harbour”) on one day, a picturesque seaside village. It is interesting because
Christchurch CathedralChristchurch CathedralChristchurch Cathedral

Very English-looking, right?
it is the site of the first (and only) French attempt at settlement in NZ (around 1840), and retains various French streetnames. Sacre bleu!

An obligatory visit was also made the small nearby Barry’s Bay Cheese Company which looked just like the Wensleydale Cheesery in Yorkshire that we visited in March last year - but perhaps this is not surprising? The weather was still amazing and that evening back in Christchurch we landed a great table in a bar near the river and some live Cuban music.

Christchurch is considered to be the most ‘English’ of NZ cities due to its grand cathedral and the punting on the river, amongst other things, as we found on our walking visit of the city. The cathedral had a welcoming feel and swastika tiles (see photo) which was very surprising at first, until I read that they have their origin in Sanskrit and actually mean something like peace and prosperity! Other highlights were pedestrian New Regent Street with its pastel Spanish mission-style buildings (why?!), the Arts Centre in Gothic buildings that used to be a college, the colourful botanical gardens and a finish at the Dux de Lux brew pub.

(Funny story: on the last night, the contents of mum's purse was exactly the price of a bottle of wine at the Belgian Cafe where we were eating. Job done.)

(P) After I arrived in Christchurch, we made a sad farewell to Huw & Georgie as they jetted off homeward bound. We tootled back to town where Nick, having gained expert local knowledge over the previous days, tour-guided me around the main sights including an enjoyable viewing of the Art Gallery’s 20th century collection. On our last night we hunted out drinks at The Twisted Hop (pub with its own brewery) in a great courtyard setting, and music and local atmosphere at the Southern Blues Bar. The flight back to Auckland afforded some of the most impressive bird’s eye views of the coastline and landscape I have ever seen.

On Auckland Anniversary Day (26th Jan) we took a little drive to Auckland’s North Shore, stopping for lunch at the large picturesque beach at Orewa, and then onwards to Puhoi, enjoying both afternoon tea and a stop at a venerable old pub, so we were both happy.

*****



Additional photos below
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Watson's BayWatson's Bay
Watson's Bay

Short ferry trip from Sydney
Paula doing beachobatics on Bondi BeachPaula doing beachobatics on Bondi Beach
Paula doing beachobatics on Bondi Beach

Okay, standing behind a cut-out at Bondi Beachobatics photo exhibition
Sampling Porter & ChocolateSampling Porter & Chocolate
Sampling Porter & Chocolate

Courtesy of Cevan & Alex, Sydney
Nick’s mum and the confusing ceiling decorations Nick’s mum and the confusing ceiling decorations
Nick’s mum and the confusing ceiling decorations

[i]The Northern Steamship Company[/i] bar, Auckland
Huw & Georgie's first tipple in AucklandHuw & Georgie's first tipple in Auckland
Huw & Georgie's first tipple in Auckland

Northern Steamship Company pub
View of Auckland harbourView of Auckland harbour
View of Auckland harbour

Taken from the ferry to Waiheke Island.
Mudbrick vineyard, Waiheke IslandMudbrick vineyard, Waiheke Island
Mudbrick vineyard, Waiheke Island

With Rangitoto Island to the distant right
Overlooking Palm Beach, Waiheke IslandOverlooking Palm Beach, Waiheke Island
Overlooking Palm Beach, Waiheke Island

30 minutes' ferry ride from Auckland
Cow trying to hideCow trying to hide
Cow trying to hide

Stony Batter, Waiheke Island. Scattered rocks the result of volcanic activity more than 8 million years ago!
Huw & Georgie by the "Christmas" treeHuw & Georgie by the "Christmas" tree
Huw & Georgie by the "Christmas" tree

Pohutakawa trees that blossom in the festive season are known as NZ'z Christmas tree.
H&G beside Mount Eden volcanic crater (50m deep)H&G beside Mount Eden volcanic crater (50m deep)
H&G beside Mount Eden volcanic crater (50m deep)

Auckland's highest natural point (196m), formed in eruptions that began 250,000 years ago. Its Maori name - Te Ipu a Mataahou - means "the food bowl of Mataahou", the Maori god.


25th March 2013
No, not roast kiwi birds, just NZ roast dinners

Kiwi Birds
According to Aboriginals in New Zealand, who attempted to eat a Kiwi Bird, they simply do not have enough meat. The California Quails would be considered a "Feast" compared to what the Kiwi has to offer. It's not worth trying to eat the endangered critters.

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