Sailing to Southern Patagonia on the Navimag

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Day 114: Tuesday 21st October - Finally I leave Puerto Montt!

When I get up in the morning I find out that there will be no hot water to take a shower until 12.30pm, so go back to bed and read all morning. Reading a book on the impending fall of communism in China, and its an interesting read at least, but can't wait to get out of this city and hostel! After finally taking a shower head along the harbour road to the supermarket to get some snacks, water etc for the boat...just in case the food on board proves to be poor. After getting in the groceries, grab a quick lunch of empanadas (like cornish pasties) and then try to ring home from the internet cafe whilst I've a spare hour....can't get my brother (again!!) and its an inconvenient time when I call my parents.

Leave the hostel at 2pm to walk the short distance to the dock to get the ferry. After waiting around for an hour, we finally board a short while after 3pm. The cabin proves to be better than expected. I've paid for the lowest grade of accomodation and was expecting to be sharing with 20+, but instead I'm in a cabin with 3 others; Luke an Australian guy, and David & Sylvia a couple from Spain. By the end of the day, I also meet Jan, a German guy who specialises in mixing all the languages together (Spanish, German & English) so you can barely understand him; a Dutch couple Marika & France; an English couple, Oscar & Tasha; and Arturo a Spanish guy who Luke had met in Puerto Montt. The ten of us hang out together for the next 3 days.

We're still in the port at the scheduled departure time of 7pm, but at least the weather has been favourable for the first time in my 3 days at Puerto Montt, allowing me to at last see Osorno Volcano in the distance. Play the first of many chess games against Arturo up on deck while Luke passes the mate around, giving me my second opportunity to sample Argentina's national drink. Its more bitter than I remember it being the first time I tried it in Bariloche. Have dinner at 7.30pm, and the food proves to be good, a trend which continues throughout the voyage. After dinner, watch the movie The Motorcycle Diaries, which is about Che Guevara's travels in the early 50's through South America. This also happened to be the first book I read on my travels, but at the time I hadn't travelled to any of the locations Che Guevara visited, Now I've been to several and the film brings back some happy memories as it follows Che's journey north through South America.

After watching the film a number of us hit the beer, deciding that we're not going to bed until this boat finally leaves Puerto Montt! Like with me, Puerto Montt hasn't left a good impression on the others, poor Arturo was even robbed when he arrived. I now feel lucky that I didn't suffer the same fate walking along the apparently dangerous harbour road to my hostel late last Saturday night when I arrived.

We finally give up on our agreement at 1.30am when we still can see Puerto Montt, but at least we're moving now having finally set sail half an hour ago, only 30 hours late! I now know how Michael Palin felt trying to go around the world in 80 days, and experiencing delays and not knowing if he would make his next connection. The 30 hour delay now means that we'll arrive Friday, and even this isn't guaranteed, meaning I have a few headaches to solve when I get to Puerto Natales as the day I've lost means my time is tight at the other end due to a flight I have on the 31st. That can wait to another day though!

Day 115: Wednesday 22nd October - Day 2 on the Navimag

Awaken by the call to breakfast at 8am. Go up to the captain's bridge on the way to check it out. Nearly kill myself laughing at the speed gauge on the bridge, which shows full speed, half speed, slow and dead slow. No guesses as to what speed setting we were on as we tried to leave Puerto Montt last night!! It is reassuring however to see that we're no longer in Puerto Montt, and that we have reached the southern tip of Chiloe island. This means that we haven't gone far - only 200km into the 1500km journey - with the final destination being Puerto Natales in Southern Patagonia. The journey involves navigating the Chilean Fjords by in large, supposedly seeing some spectacular scenery on the way. Today we sail through Corvocado Gulf, south of Chiloe, Moraleda Channel, Pulluche Channel, Grrazuriz Channel, Anna Pink Bay before leaving the Chilean coastline and sailing across the Golfo de Pena in the Pacific. Unfortunately, the weather is terrible all day, wet and overcast meaning poor visibility so spend almost all the time below deck. I had been warned if the weather is poor, you can't see anything, and today proves this.

After my breakfast go back to bed until lunchtime, which is a common pattern during my time on board the Navimag. There's only really 3 places to hang out, being your cabin, the dining area and the deck. When the weather's bad that becomes two, as the Navimag is primarily a cargo ship which has been partly converted to carry tourists, rather than being a cruise ship. Indeed, I find out today that the reason for the delay yesterday was the time taken to load the ship with cargo. After lunch, play cards with the Dutch, Arturo, Luke & Jan. Get some good news later in the day that we will arrive on Friday. After dinner, its red wine time before I head to bed at 11pm when it starts to get rough as we cross the Golfo de Penas. After being seasick in the Galapagos I've learnt that when its rough the best plan is to lie down in bed and so do so after taking a seasick tablet.

Day 116: Thursday 23rd October - Day 3 on the Navimag

We're still crossing the Golfo de Penas when I awake so after a quick breakfast I head back to bed until lunchtime as its rough. We finally cross the Gulf at around 10am, after which its the Messier Channel, Cotopaxi Shallow, English Shallow (the joint narrowest point on the voyage at just 60m wide) and we arrive at Puerto Eden at 4pm. Puerto Eden is a small indian settlement of a few hundred and being 2 days sail from Puerto Montt and a day from Puerto Natales, it has to be the remotest place I've ever seen. Its bleak, taking an obvious battering from the weather. A few people get on board here, and the ship drops off some vital supplies. We later find out that because the ship hasn't sailed past for the past few weeks, they have run out of food and have resorted to eating clams off the beach the last few days, resulting in fights breaking out as people became desperate in their hunger!

We set sail about an hour after arriving in Puerto Eden, heading through the Wide channel and Conception Channel, but as the weather proves to be terrible see neither as we're all below deck. The days activities are the now routine chess, cards, before a few drinks in the evening. We also get a lecture on what to do in Torres Del Paine national park which is the main attraction around Puerto Natales. Indeed it is the most visited national park in South America. After the talk, Luke & Arturo decide they will join me to trek the 'W' trail around the park. I'm happy as it will be much better having company around the trail, even though I would have happily done it alone.

Day 117: Friday 24th October - Arriving in Puerto Natales

We've made good progress the last few days so it is now expected we're arrive in Puerto Natales at 10.30am. First we must navigate through the Union Channel, Paso Sobores, White Narrow (the joint narrowest point on the voyage), Almirante Montt Gulf. Fortunately this morning we've been blessed with some decent weather. Its windy, but the sun is out and visibility is good so we're treated to some stunning views of the mountains and fjords as we sail towards Puerto Natales. I can only imagine what it would have been like with three days of clear weather, but its great to admire the stunning views for a couple of hours anyway. I can't complain we've had one day of good weather on the voyage out of three, which I was told by a knowledgeable guy in Santiago is par for the course at this time of the year.

After breakfast I burn my socks whilst trying to dry them on the lamp above my bunk! Luckily, I had smelt the burning as I was still in the cabin....I guess it could have been much worse, and very embarrassing. Will have to add that to the shopping list I'm compiling for when we finally get off the boat. We arrive in Puerto Natales at 11.30am but don't disembark until 3pm due to high winds which prevent us from docking.

So, what's my opinion been of the Navimag?? I've had a great time to be honest. Its been good not having to think what to do each day, and because of the restrictions its been great being lazy as well without feeling guilty that you should be doing something. Also, I've had a great time hanging out with the people I've met, making some good friends. If we'd had 3 days of good weather then it would have been an amazing trip, instead its been very good, and a nice way to travel for a change instead of getting a bus.

When we finally get on to shore I head with Luke and Arturo to the hostel they have booked, in the hope they can accomodate me as well. I'm in luck, now I must sort out my headache of having only 6 full days to do the 'W' trek in Torres Del Paine National Park which takes 4-5 days and was the reason for coming to Puerto Natales and seeing the Perito Moreno Glacier in El Calafate, which is over the border in Argentina. I know this is tight now due to the day lost waiting for the Navimag to sail but it all comes together within an hour of being at the hostel. I find out that you can't get buses from the park to El Calafate so I will have to come back to Puerto Natales, which means that its going to be 5 days trekking + travelling in Chile, leaving only a day to get to El Calafate and see the glacier. Luke says he's heading to El Calafate after Torres Del Paine as well and he was thinking of hiring a car. With two of us it will be cheaper than getting a bus or a tour to the glacier, so that's that one solved. Having to come back to Puerto Natales also means I can leave some stuff behind at the hostel, making my backpack lighter as well. I love it when a plan comes together!!

Go to the supermarket, chemist and an outdoor shop to get kitted out for the trek. We see Jan on our way back to the hostel in a car hire shop. He's planning to hire a pick up truck with two swiss girls to save on money by sleeping in the truck and doing day hikes instead of staying in the expensive refugios along the trail. Its a strange way to save money, but Jan's got some wacky idea's when it comes to travelling. I think his priorities are not to save money but the girls!! Still it gives the three of us a good laugh on our way home! Sort out my backpack before dinner, leaving some gear behind which I won't need. Then myself, Luke & Arturo meet David & Sylvia in a nearby restaurant for dinner. Jan also joins us briefly before he sets off on his adventure. Unfortunately the Dutch are nowhere to be seen. We missed them coming off the boat, so we haven't had the opportunity to say our goodbyes, which is a shame. Still, say goodbye to Jan, David & Sylvia - may see them all again in Buenos Aires.

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Comments

[Arturo]

Great to read it again!!
Thanks for posting alll our trip to southern chilly in here!! It was great fun.....