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December 17th 2005
Published: February 20th 2006
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12-16th December

We made an excursion to Dalian. This city is not on most backpacker routes but we were glad to have an excuse to go there in visiting Fiona's flatmate, Leilei, from St. Andrews. Dalian is a young and vibrant city on the northeast peninsula of China, close to the border with North Korea.

This part of the country may be more familiar to some by the name Port Arthur. This is the English name for the nearby military port of Luashan where the scars from a painful, and recent, history have left their mark. It was at this port that the Japanese launched a vicious attack during the Russo-Japanese War of 1894-96. Almost all civilians in the town were killed in an unprovoked attack as part of the Japanese expansionist effort. The Japanese withdrew only a few years later and Dalian was restored to Chinese status. However, the Japanese and Russian legacy remains in the architecture as well as the wide choice of food in this region.

So, Dalian has, essentially, only a one hundred year history but it is one they are proud of and in which they have shown amazing success and growth. We
Foundation Stone of DalianFoundation Stone of DalianFoundation Stone of Dalian

The sculptor asked people from all walks of life in Dalian, from a new born baby to a 100yr old citizen, to put their footprint in this artistic foundation stone.
saw evidence of this in the Dalian Modern Museum where there were photos illustrating the changes over the past century. It paints a very exciting picture when the times of Japanese servitude can be contrasted with the modern Chinese industries the city boasts today. Heavy engineering, including ship building and train engine construction, are two of Dalian's main industries but this is alongside a wealth of expanding IT companies vying to locate in the region due to its Special Economic Status.

We arrived in Dalian on the morning of Tuesday 13th after an overnight train journey from Beijing. Our first experience on Chinese 'hard sleepers'. The trains are about twenty carriages long and made up of seating coaches, soft and hard sleepers. The soft sleepers are the first class comfy and spacious berths and the hard sleepers are where the more 'economic' travellers like ourselves go. There are no compartments. Instead, about 120 beds, arranged three bunks high in about twenty rows along the carriage. Its not as bad as it sounds - honest!

We had a traditional Chinese breakfast of hot soya milk with a kind of fried bread stick and steamed buns (savoury and sweet). Leilei and her boyfriend Ma then gave us a tour round the city by car. We stepped out to admire the many parks but quickly darted back to the car as the snow storm was coming in and we were enjoying those minus temperatures again. Well it is as far north as parts of Russia, so should be expected.

During the course of the next few days other highlights included seeing the port town of Luashan mentioned earlier, visiting a snake sanctuary, the fantastic Dalian Pole Aquarium and enjoying a foot massage (the latest relaxation 'must-do' in China!). We also managed a day trip to Dandong, the border town with North Korea. This was so exciting that a separate entry is deemed necessary.

Perhaps, the best part of our time in Dalian was meeting and spending time with Leilei and Ma's families. They made us most welcome, showing us their lives at work and rest. Ma's father treated us all to a seafood feast on our second evening where we had such delicacies as sea cucumber (not a vegetable as one might think but a living sea creature that looks like a cucumber), conch, scallops, sturgeon, and eel.

Another treat was taking part in the traditional Chinese New Year activity of making dumplings. Ma's mother prepared various fillings and then showed us how to knead the dough and make the dumplings right down to boiling them in the pot and enjoying your hard earned fruits of labour. It is the perfect family activity as everyone can have a role to play in the production line. Even though our dumplings were often an odd shape they still tasted good!

Thank you Leilei and Ma for making us part of your family for a few days! We had a wonderful time and wish you all the best as you settle back into life in China.

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13th January 2006

Your travels look wonderful!
I didn't manage to get the web address from mum for this so I did a search on 'Fiona, Marcus, Scotland, America' and guess what - your page came top of the list ! Your travels look wonderful. I hope you continue to have a fantastic time. I'll keep reading ! Take care, look after yourselves! Love from Emma (who is back in Dublin again! - this is my overseas experience - ha ha !)
14th January 2006

we are envious
we are at your folks enjoying good grub and looking at your journals seen your wedding albums you will love them. iam also enjoying your mums millionaisr shortbread which used to go to st, andrews.now ruglen. have a guid new year aw ra best love you both love and kisses from papa stewart and auntie jean.

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