October Session

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It is good to be back in Suan Juan De Sur. It is odd returning to a place yet at the same time it is comforting. Still I always seem to get lost in this village. It must be the fung shui messing with me.

So I checked into the Xamily hostel and went for a walk. As I was walking down to the market to buy some surf wax, I almost bailed and slid a few feet almost into a pole. Turns out I just stepped on a giant pile of dog pooh. This mound was unbelievable big and I am suprise these scawny dogs can make such a thing. My forensics skills determine this to be some pretty fresh poop and the culprit probably did not get very far judging by the freshness of this mass.

There is nothing worst then stepping on fresh dog pooh then stepping on it with flip flop. These flip flop served we well but I had to say good bye to them. It was man down at this point and there was no way was I going to try to recover them. So heck I jumped into the beach and walked home bare foot like a true local. That was pretty much the evening.


This morning I slepted in until 7am and went back to that wicked coffee place to chill. They have the best breakfast and I have to get the name so I can write about it for everyone to check out. They got killer chocolate banana muffins and the place is filled with books and you just want to be there. My daily routine in San Juan have been to come here first thing in the morning and read.

Afterwards I went hunting for a place for transport to the beaches. The Tolo beaches in Suan Juan are made up of a few beaches and each one you need a truck to get to. When it rains the roads are not accessible and I wouldn´t recommend getting a taxi because they charge you $25 round trip. Instead hit the local surf shops and they take their own van at a set time.

So 1PM I went to the surf shop with my board and there were 8 of us so we all crammed into the scooby doo van. I forgot the name of the beach but it is near Maderas. We weren´t able to head to Maderas because the roads are flooded. After speaking to a couple of the girls in the van they said they went to the same beach yesterday and the van got stuck and they had to walk 2 kms with their surf board. The road look pretty bad going to this beach break and apparently this beach is on private land so it is not in the lonely planet. Some rich land owner struck a deal with the transport people that work at the surf store and instead of paying a toll to get pass the gates you have to pay $5 in credit to eat at the restauarant, which is better then paying a toll I guess.

When we finally got there the place was incredible. Whoever owns the land had alot of money because there were statues everywhere. If you can imagine Tomb Raiders that would be a very accurate description of this place. The place looked like some archaeology site with old ruin statues everywhere and vines. You follow this stone brick path and there are old statues everywhere almost like some old ruin temple in Peru. You are just in awe at all these old statues and you do not realize all of a sudden you are lead to this wicked beach. The beach was not big but it was a surfers paradise. It was like God build this wave machine and the waves were looking gorgeous.

This place was pretty hidden and you really required a guide to get you here. But boy the surf was incredible. I almost wanted to cry looking from above and seeing the 14-16 second period between each wave and barrels. I was in heaven.

I quickly waxed my board and went in. The first wave I got I completely bailed. I swam all the way out and this huge wave came and i paddled as hard as I could. But the problem was I wasn´t behind the wave I was under it and it picked me up 5 ´feet into the air and I was staring down a straight drop. There is nothing more exciting yet scary when you completely bail on a big wave. It happens so fast and you know you are screwed so I kept calm and I was pulled under for along time. I am glad over the course of my surfing trip I have build up stamina to hold my breath for a long time because it can get pretty hairy being under that long. After that I respected the wave and it was all gravy.

I have been surfing lots over the months and have finally learnt how to properly duck dive so I don´t have to eat wave after wave. That and it helps when you have build up good stamina to be able to paddle for along time without tiring which is the key really to surfing. If you can´t paddle and duck dive you are going to eat wave after wave so this time it was a completely different surfing experience.

Stepping on that dog crap early was probably lucky. Because this was by far the best surf session I ever had period. Wave after wave I got on and I did not want to leave. I surf until sunset and it was incredible sitting on my surf board listening to the wave crash behind me and staring into the sunset at the orange and red sky.

I am glad I made the decision to come back to Suan Juan because it was an amazing October session I got in today. I wish I could take some pictures of this place because words do not give it justice.

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Comments

[anonymous]

next stop,tofino!