Where East meets West

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Turkey is where Asia meets Europe. The astonishingly complex history of this ancient region is probably the world's longest running clash of civilisations. The more I learn about Turkey and her rich history, the more I begin to realise that Turkey is and always has been at the heart of the world's affairs. The Turks are extraordinarily proud of their great history, and equally proud when it comes to the creation of the modern Turkish state, under the national hero Ataturk following the conclusion of World War l. They are also amazingly friendly, and just this instant while typing away a stranger walked up and shook my hand while greeting me in Turkish. You know something, I can't remember a country where I have smiled so much!

Continuing from the previous journal, dear reader, I caught a train from Thessaloniki through eastern Thrace, after crossing the heavily guarded border between Greece and Turkey. Istanbul is situated on the Sea of Marmara and is cut in half by the Bosphorus channel. The taxi driver from the train station summed up the significance of one of the world's most important cities by simply saying we are in Europe, then pointing across the Bosphorus and saying that is Asia. I was happy to check into the wonderful Orient hostel in the heart of Sultanameht, after a period of solo travelling and frustrating transport links towards the end of my Greek trip. And so I began to soak up the history of this exotic city during a four day stay. It was two blocks up the road to the Hagia Sophia Cathedral, and facing the mighty structure right across the park is the Blue Mosque, which was built during the height of the Ottoman empire. These phenomenal structures light up Istanbul at night, and bring hordes of tourists to the city as they have done throughout the centuries. The largest city in Turkey also hosts the Topkapi Palace and the Grand Bazaar, which was at the centre of world trade for several centuries. If you fancy a gorgeous Turkish carpet using the unique double stitching technique or some jewellery from the vast market place, just don't expect a bargain as the prices reflect the high rents the store keepers are liable to pay.

On my final night in Istanbul I went to the famous Ali Sami Yen stadium with a few English lads to watch Galatasaray play. There was a full house for the home team victory, and the fans of this world famous football club are nothing short of incredible. The atmosphere of non stop singing included call and answer songs between sections of the crowd right around the ground, and the match was an experience I will never forget. Plus I got to see my favourite football player live again ... yes indeed, running around in a Galatasaray shirt was daddy cool himself! Our boy Harry is quickly becoming a cult figure in Istanbul with his uncanny ability to score freakish goals. I'm so pleased he is fit and firing again after battling through a couple of wretched years at Liverpool. Late in the game he was hacked and got up breathing fire at the referee. My english mate turned to me and said "Harry's just lost his kewell!" That was a nice one mate, I had to laugh.

I decided to book on a two week tour of Turkey because of time constraints in this big country, and also bearing in mind the good reputation of the tourist industry here. The first destination as we headed south was to the World War 1 battlefields of Gallipoli with a friendly guide and good company. It was a moving experience paying homage to the sight where the flower of youth from several countries lost their lives in this brutal eight month campaign, especially considering neither side gained the upper hand during a savage and prolonged war of attrition. The Anzacs and the Turks covered themselves in glory during this campaign, and it proved to be the making of two young countries. The so called gentlemen's war forged an indelible friendship between the Australians and the Turks that lives on to this day. Incredibly the troops threw supplies and ciggies over the trench lines to each other during lulls in the fighting, and there is a moving photo in the museum of a digger cradling the head of an injured Turk while he shares his water with the enemy. Paying my respects at Anzac Cove where the young boys landed at the start of eight months in hell, and then paying homage to the fallen soldiers at the Lone Pine memorial is something I will never forget. It was a very sad and moving experience. May they rest in peace.

They lived with death, dined with disease." Anonymous Gallipoli poem

Next morning we were up bright and early to tour the ruins of Ancient Troy. The German archaeologist who discovered the ruins is not highly regarded, as the ruins are in far from acceptable condition. In fact he doubled as a treasure hunter, making off with over 10,000 priceless artefacts and jewellery which the Turkish Government are still trying desperately to retrieve. Nonetheless we had an excellent morning exploring, which culminated in climbing the wooden horse pretending we were the Aegeans waiting for nightfall within the confines of the impregnable walls. Then we could burst forth from our hiding place under cover of darkness to open the gates for our men, all waiting greedily outside the walls for the chance to sack the city! Homer's immortal tale of Achilles, Hector, Paris, Agamemnon, Priam, Cassandra and the beautiful Helen of Troy came to life before our eyes. At the conclusion of the tour we went for a Turkish coffee at a local store close to the ruins.

We went inside and for some reason I found myself frozen with my body facing the store counter. The rest of the tour team were happily browsing for nick nacks, was it possible that I needed a Turkish coffee that much? I finally snapped out of my reverie, and realised the reason I was distracted in the first place. There working behind the counter was a totally unpretentious young woman who seemed oblivious to her natural beauty. She didn't speak a word of English, and was impeccably demure while avoiding eye contact with us. Neither did she have on a skerrick of make up but when she smiled... By the Gods right before my eyes was a direct descendent to Helen of Troy!

I then commuted down to Kusadasi using local transport and arrived in the evening. After a good sleep I woke today for a tour of the ruins at Priene, Miletus and Didyma. These Greco-Roman ruins are not visited as often as Ephesus, but I was privileged to be the only member on the tour with a university educated guide who really knew his stuff. It took Charlie four years to learn about the proud history of Turkey, and he volunteered there's still much to learn. My friend, do I ever know how you feel! Turkey is an intriguing, super friendly and historically rich country that is an absolute pleasure to visit. As a matter of fact, basically all of you should be here now!

In no man's land at Gallipoli during a temporary ceasefire to bury their dead a Turkish captain told an English officer: "At this spectacle even the most gentle must feel savage, and the most savage must weep."

As I continue my travels, until next time it's signing off for now

Tom

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Photos

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul
The cathedral with it's impressive dome dominates Sultanameht, along with the equally impressive Blue Mosque directly opposite.

Lone Pine Memorial, Gallipoli
A single pine tree stands amongst the memorial and the graves to the fallen Anzacs in this beautiful and haunting place.

Statue at Gallipoli
A Turkish soldier carries an injured Anzac to safety.

Lest we forget
The grave of a fallen Australian soldier during the Gallipoli campaign. May they rest in peace.

Ruins at Miletus
Partially submerged ruins due to recent rain creates an ephemeral scene.

Medusa is not happy!
She has been busy guarding the magnificent Temple of Athena at Didyma down through the ages.

Comments

[Breathless]

Breathtaking
Luverly to know that the sight of such exemplary beauty can leave you breathless. I wander if the gods are playing with you mere mortals.

[Colin]

Video!
So you have video too now - very impressive! And I'm pretty jealous you saw a Galatasaray game too! Happy travels, mate.

[victor a. anker]

Albert Anker
.... my great uncle; born in London.... I wonder how he managed to volunteer and to what group he belonged...... his name is on the monument. Albert's brother Victor, my grandfather was a Seaforth Highlander in France.... until December, 1918. I did not know him. When I think of the two brothers, I often tell myself: "Victor, don't you ever complain about a hard day".

[Barry Wilbur]

Statue at Gallipoli [Turkish Soldier carries an injured ANZAC to dafety]
mid 2013 - Looking for approval-allowance to use this image -photo of the Statue in a book

[Tom Rooney]

Statue photo
No problem Barry, be my guest!

[Tom Rooney]

Statue photo
No problem Barry, be my guest!